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THE CUTTERS'

PRACTICAL CUIDE

TO THE CUTTING OF

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Now being made in the best Tailoring Firms.

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-By W, •©. F. IKiiiciiit.

■■ I H I 1 I I I I I I I I I 1 I 1 I I I I I I 1 1 I ■ 1 I I III I I 11 11 I I ■ ■

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PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY
THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE. W.C

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PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED,
98 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

f iMiskiFS fitful:

The material changes in gentlemen's garments are so gradual and comparatively
slight, that a good work on their production may continue to be of practical value for well
nigh a generation. The case stands very differently with Ladies' Garments, which
change — very materially so in some cases — every season ; necessitating a new work for
their production every two, or at most, three years. Apart from this necessity in point
of new styles and fashions, many inquiries have been made lately as to whether we had a
work on Ladies' Garments by the Cutters' Practical Guide System, and if not, whether
we intended preparing such. The work we now introduce being based on the " Guide "
System, it is thus prepared to meet a two-fold want or demand — an instructor and guide
to the production of all the new and popular styles in tailor-made garments ; and also the
demand for such a work by the Practical Guide System.

The work itself will bear testimony to its scope, and the way in which every current,
as well as new style of Ladies' Tailor-made Garment is treated and illustrated. Here we
have the systems for producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved
diagrams ; and there is further, the finished garments, illustrated upon artistically en-
graved figures. The work thus presents a completeness, which renders it an invaluable
acquisition to the Ladies' cutter. Should the inexperienced or timid cutter hesitate to
use his own productions by these systems, our arrangements for supplying Special Cut
Patterns of any style of ladies' garment— if the style can be conveyed to us — at a very
nominal price, will meet the difficulty, at the same time allow him to compare our pattern
with his own production.

We doubt not but this new and latest Work will fully sustain the character we have
already attained by the Works now being published at the Tailor and Cutter Office.

The John Williamson Company Limited.

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-ZTr^GTXV

TO €lf f INCH

The object we set before us in this work, is the
preparation of a Complete Instructor and (iuide in
the production of all Ladies' Garments which may be
classed as " tailor-made," not only as regards the cut,
the fit and the making, but embracing also all the new,
the current and the popular styles, in all their different
classes and departments — an Instructor to the inex-
perienced, and a (iuide to the experienced cutter.
While tailoring has been largely augmented during
recent years by Ladies' Garments, this comparatively
new branch is capable of very considerable further
development, which can. only be accomplished by
cutters generally setting themselves to study and
acquire the Art of Cutting and getting up Ladies'
• iarments — an art in Tiiost respects widely different
from the production of gentlemen's garments, and
which must receive special and attentive study before
success can be possible. This work will supply the
necessary materials in every detail for such study.
Starting at the beginning, with the anatomy of the
female figure, we proceed step by step till we embrace
every point connected with the production of Ladies'
tailor-made garments, in all their styles and varieties,
so that by application and perseverance, any cutter of
ordinary tact and intelligence, can, through the medium
of the following pages, master this noble art, and so
enable him, as cutter, to take any position in a high-
class trade : or, as master, to develop his trale by the
making of ladies" garments, turned out with such fit,
taste and style, as will be well nigh certain to ensure
success.

Such, briefly, is the aim and object of this work.
This must be a continuous study on the part of the
cutter, for fashions change so rapidly, one style succeeds
another so speedily, that unless he is on the alert, he
will soon drop back into the second rate : for it is
well known that ladies' make a study of dress ; they
not only know what is the latest style, but they also
understand every application of art, and very often

some of the laws of science. They will often tell yon
where the seams of their garments must be placed, and
they know the effect certain styles of ornamentation
will have on the body ; and woe to the reputation of
the man who leads them in the wrong direction ; and
although we do not wish to impute that, with all ladies,
dress is the one end and object of their life, yet they
study it, they read about it, they write about it, they
talk about it, they think about it, they attend public
institutions to look at it, they work for it, aye, and
often deny themselves the common necessaries of life to
procure it. We do not condemn all this : our object
is rather to show the cutter who hopes to become first-
class at this branch of tailoring, the necessity there is
for application and study, to become acquainted with
science in all its teachings, so as to apply it to his
calling ; to thoroughly unde]"stand the application of
art in all its fine studies, so as to utilize its lessons to
the adorning of the female form ; to understand the
phases of practical tailoring, which enables form to be
introduced into what was before flat and lifeless. We
might proceed almost indefinitely to show how know-
ledge was power in this direction, but we will take the
various phases in their order, and leave the student to
follow up the study of many of the subjects which we
may only be able to touch lightly in dealing with them.
To understand our subject thoroughly, the first subject
we must deal with is

Anatomy,

A subject deserving of far more attention from tailors
than it receives. It is a study which recalls to us the
laws of our 1 )ivine Creator when he fashioned our bodies.
It is not necessary that our readers spend months
or years acquiring the names of all the bones of the
human figure : what we want them to understand is,
that a bone of such a shape is in such a position, and
that its movements are in certain directions ; that it is
surrounded by certain muscles which develop in cer

£4i&ZXP?i&:_

^^p*^

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

tain directions : and, having acquired this knowledge,
the cutter will be able to distinguish between the pos-
sible and the impossible in nature, and so lay the
foundation for formulating sound systems. It will
enable him to understand the outline of the form he
has to clothe, independent of such artificial appliances
as bustles, crinolines, &c, &c.

It teaches the symmetry of the body, and shows how
the left side is an almost exact reproduction of the
right only in reverse.

It teaches where growth is possible and where impos-
sible ; how certain bones always remain near the sur-
face of the skin, and how when the body develops
either fat or muscle, where the increment is placed, and
how it affects the surrounding parts.

It teaches the movements of limbs, where the three
different joints are to be found, viz.,* the gliding, the
universal or ball socket and the hinge joint.

But the study that applies more particularly to this
work, is what we may turn comparative anatomy, by
which we may realize the difference between the male
and female form, and as we have treated of anatomy in
Part I of the " Cutter's Practical Guide," we will sup-
pose the readers of this work have made themselves, to
a certain extent, acquainted with the general anatomy
the male form. On

Figure 1,

The female skeleton is illustrated, and on figure 2 the
male. By comparison we at once notice the smallness
of the ribs and the largeness of the hips, whilst the
space between the chest and pelvis (hips) is much
wider in woman than in man. The collar bones are
weaker in woman than in man, and are differently
shaped, which remark applies to all the bones of the
superior extremities.!

The ribs of the female are not so arch-like nor so
strong as in the male.

When the bones are quite characteristic, the male
are more arched than the famale ribs, especially be-
tween the fifth and ninth on either side. It is there
that the female ribs are flattened, and it is in this situa-
that the female waist exists. In man, when strongly
formed, the ribs continue fully arched, much lower
down, placing his waist between the last rib and the
top of the haunches.

In man, the back is strong ; in woman, the loins.

But probably the point wherein the tailor will learn
the best lesson is the hips, as it will soon force itself to

* These were fnlly described in Part I of the " Cutter's
Practical Guide."

t Scapula, clavicle, humerus, radius, ulna, carpel, roeta-
^carpel and digital bones.

his notice in practice how very much extra the hips are
developed in the female form than the male. Another
reference to Figures 1 and 2 will readily illustrate this :
of the male pelvis we shall not particularise, but of the
female we wish to call attention to the fine oval form
it presents as compared with the male, the great breadth
of the haunch bones, &c. It is this great breadth of
the hips in woman, that the ladies' tailor has to observe
and make provision for, and which, together with the
other peculiarities of the female skeleton, will open his
eyes to the reason for many of the effects he has to
deal with. Important as is the study of anatomy as
a foundation upon which to build up a scientific and
practical knowledge, we do not wish to overlook the
undisputed fact, that the skeleton bears but an indis-
tinct resemblance to the outside, the muscles and flesh
formation having much to do with that. But a little
study will soon inform us where and how these muscles
develop, and as we know the bones never really alter
their actual forms (though they may seem to do so by
the condition of the surrounding muscles) and conse-
quently a knowledge of the skeleton formation is the
very best foundation we can possibly have. In

Figure 3 and 4,

We have illustrations showing the proportions < f man
and woman, taken from a manual of artistic anatomy
by Robert Knox, M.D., F.R.K.E., which still further
emphasizes the lessons we learnt from the skeleton.
The shoulders are small, the circumference of the chest
is increased by the development of the breasts, the extra
size of the hips and thighs, and lastly the softness of
outline which seems to hide every trace of the skeleton.
and even tones down and in many cases altogether
hides the muscle development which is so clearly marked
in man.

We cannot close this section on anatomy, without
referring to one of the best works published in modern
times by J. Bononi, F.R.A.S., M.S.B.A., entitled.
Proportions of the Human Figure and from which the
following diagrams and quotations of relative propor-
tions of the human figure are taken.

Amongst the various difficult questions which are
always cropping up in connection with our art is :
What is proportion ? and on this topic we give the
definition of proportion as laid down by Virtrivius.
" Proportion is the commensuration of the various con-
stituent parts with the whole, on the existence of which
symmetry is found to consist." As, for instance, the
human frame is divided into four equal parts by very
distinctly marked divisions in its structure and outward
form. See

_ -(a^gg^Pi^,.

Figure 5.

Firstly. From the crown of the head to a line drawn
across the nipples, as at 3. Secondly. From the nipples
to the pubis as from 3 to 4. Thirdly. From the pubis
to the bottom of the patella, as from 4 to 5. Lastly.
From the bottom of the patella to the sole of the foot
as from 5 to 6. Again, four measures equal in them-
selves, and likewise equal to those just described, and as
well marked in the structure of the human body, are
seen when the arms are extended horizontally, as in

Figure 6.

From the tip of the middle or longest finger to the
bend of the arm is one-fourth of the height of the
person, and from the bend of the arm to the pit of the
neck is another fourth. Again, with regard to the face
and hands. From the tip of the forehead to the chin
is a tenth, and from the tip of the middle finger to the
wrist is also a tenth. The face is also divided into
three parts as shown, but this is not of so much im-
portance to us as the relation the head bears to the
body. It has so often been asserted that the head
bears the relation of one-eighth of the total height of
the body, that it will be as well if we examine this
assertion thoroughly. For, although it undoubtedly is
somewhat near the mark, yet at the same time, its re-
liability is open to question in many cases, so we will
take the relation this part bears to the body in some of
the most noted statues, and in doing so, we divide the
figure in the same manner as is done by artists, &c,
and which is illustrated on

Figure 7,

Viz., heads, parts and minutes : the head is the dis-
tance from the crown of the head to the chin, as at I,
diagram 8. The parts are obtained by dividing the
head into four equal divisions, and the minutes are
obtained by dividing one of those divisions into twelve
equal parts, and in this manner the true relation that
each portion bears to the other is obtained. For ex-
ample, let us suppose the head measures 9 inches, each
part would be '2\, and each minute three-sixteenths of
an inch. It will be as well for the student to note this
as we shall have occasion to refer to this later on, but
for the present will dealt with

The Eight Heads Theory.

The Apollo Sauroktonos, it is said, would be seven
heads and nine minutes if he stood upright ; thus it
will be seen in this case the height of the figure is three
parts three minutes short of this standard ; or taking

our division of inches as just worked out, would be
over 7 inches short ot' eight heads. The Apollino of
Florence, is said to be seven heads, three parts and five
minutes high, thus, he only wants six minutes to com-
plete the eight heads, or as we have been calculating
l£ inches short. The Achilles of the Louvre is said to
be seven heads, one part and eleven minutes ; thus, he
wants nearly 4f inches to reach this standard. The
Venus de Medicis is said to be seven heads, three parts
and ten minutes ; thus, she only requires 2 minutes or
| of an inch to complete eight heads. The Venus of
the Capitol is said to measure seven heads, one part
and four minutes ; thus she wants two parts and eight
minutes, or six inches according to our calculation, to
complete the eight heads, so by this test the eight heads
theory fails, for these are the statues which have charm-
ed the world for ages, and have been looked upon as
masterpieces of art, or in other words

The Highest Ideals of Proportion

That sculptors have ever produced, and as every one of
these fall short of the standard thus fixed, and in some
cases by as much as G or 7 inches, it will be seen that
from 7^ to 8 heads would be nearer the mark, certainly
well insides the 8, as in no case do they reach eight
heads. Again, the " length of arms equal the height "
is equally erroneous, for out of K4 persons measured by
Bononi, 54 were found to be long armed, 24 short
armed, and ('» only whose arms were exactly equal to
the height when extended. The greatest excess was in
the case of a carpenter, whose arms exceeded height by
5 inches. The greatest excess of height was in the
case of an architect whose height exceeded the distance
of his extended arms by 4 inches. Diagram (! shows
the proportions of the male figure according to Bononi,
whilst diagrams 7 and 8 shows

The Relation of the Male & Female Forms

The male figure is represented by the thick lines,
and the measurements referring to it are placed on your
right hand, whilst the female is represented by the fine
lines, and the measurements on the left. The mea-
surements are all calculated by heads, parts and minutes,
and as marked represent the width in profile. The
measurements of length, according to Virtrivius and
Leonardo da Vinci, are relatively the same in both
sexes, and are expressed in long horizontal lines run-
ning through both the front and profile figures ; the
letters by the side of the figures refer to the propor-
tions of the relative parts, and which will be of value
to the tailor in helping him to obtain measures, which
for some reason or the other he is unable to take direct
on the figure.

"^a^Sse^

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

To get the circumference of any part, add the width
in profile (as given on figure 7 for the male, and figure
9 for the female) and width in front (as illustrated on
figure 8, the figures on the left side representing the
female, and those on the right the male), together
multiply them by 1^, and result will give approximate
circumference. Examnle : male thigh profile, 3 parts
(5 minutes, 3 parts = 6|, 3 minutes = ?6 = 7^ front,
3 parts 2 minutes, 3 parts = 6|, 2 minutes = f =
~h "w + ^b = l^i76> one and a half times 14^ — 21^
thigh. Other parts may he treated in the same way.

The following list of

Measurements of Mrs. Langtry

As compared with the Venus de Medicis will prove
most interesting, and to the tailor who has a difficulty
in getting certain measurements, they will prove most
useful. kSome papers have been printing facts about
the " perfect woman " physically considered. An
artist supplies the comparative measurements of Mrs.
Langtry and the Venus de Medecis, two types of the
ancient and modern worlds. The height of these two
beautiful women, the one in flesh and blood and the
other in marble, happens to be the same, viz., five feet
and seven inches. Hence the two may be taken as
illustrating the difference of ideal physical proportions
between the ancient and the modern. Whei'e and how
the measurements of Mrs. Langtry were obtained we
do not know, but we have no reason to doubt their
correctness : —

Mrs. Langtry.

Height

Across the shoulders -
Bust ------

Arm ------

Thigh -----

Calf

Neck -

Hips ------

Length of leg - - -

Waist 26

5ft. 7in.
15 inches
36 „
12 „

24 „
12 „
12 „
45 „

25 .,

Length of arm -

Ankle - - -

Foot - - - -

Face - - - -

The Venus.
5ft. 7in.
16tj inches
38" „
12 „
24 „
12 „

1 Qi

io2 „

-12 „

32 „

... ,,

28 „

Doubtless there are millions of beautiful women who
do not come very close to either, but taking Mrs.
Langtry as a type, it appears that the modern runs less
to shoulders and more to hips than the woman of
antiquity. The ancient has also a decided advantage
in the length of legs and arms and the size of neck and
ankles On the whole, the modern woman appears to
be less muscularly and more voluptuously formed than

the ancient. It would be very easy to note a series of
coincidences in these measures, such as the neck, arm,
and calf being the same size, but they would be of little
value as one part develops independently of another, so
we pass on to deal with

The Principles which Govern the Fitting
of Garments,

And which must form the foundation on which all
systems are built. Putting these briefly, they consist
of two, viz., size and form ; but inasmuch as that is
rather indefinite, we prefer to classify them under seven
heads, viz., (1) Length. (2) Width. (3) Height
and size of neck. (4) Location and size of scye.
(5) Provision for prominence and depressions such as
blades, chest, &c. (6) Provision for muscular develop-
ment. (7) Attitude. We will briefly touch on the
principal features to be noted in dealing with these.
That length should govern length, and width govern
width, seems such a common sense rule, that we can
hardly realize any other plan being adopted, and yet
many cutters of the present day cling to the relic of a
byegone age, fixing every point of the garment by
division of width. Of the fixed points in the body two
stand out prominently as starting points of great value
to the cutter. These are the centre of back and the
centre of front, and it will be well for every cutter to
realise that at these parts the body is hollow, that is,
there are decided depressions ; and to fix these points
in their proper relation to each other is of great impor-
tance in the garment. The only measure necessary to
do this is the size or, if you will, the width round body
plus an allowance for seams, ease, &c, and which for
an ordinary garment made from medium material
would run about 2 inches. Of the length, the nape
is the starting point, it is the first prominence that
shows itself at the back of the neck (the seventh
vertebrae), and from which the hollow of waist and full
length is obtained. In these two we have all that is
contained in size ; but in form we have to provide for
all the local prominences and depressions. Let us take

The Height and Size of Neck.

Here we have one of the most puzzling parts of the
garment, or at least it is so to a large number. Why ?
Simply because they try to provide for it either by
divisions of the breast or divisions of the length, both
being erroneous — we were going to say equally, but
this is hardly so, for certainly a division of the length
is preferable to the width although it is far from
reliable, for we find tall people square shouldered, and
vice versa ; whilst there is still another feature to be

,2^ijSllkS..

borne in mind, viz., the thickness of the body at that
part, for if the shoulders are largely developed in the
front, the same or almost the same provision must be
made as for square shoulders. Then there is still
another feature, viz., that with short-necked figures
the thickness of the neck from side to side is more
than would be the case with the normal figure, whilst
with the long-necked figure the diameter is less. Thi6
we account for in the following way : In the short
neck the muscles go up from the shoulder to the neck
more suddenly, and so increase the diameter from side
to side, and vice versa. Hence, the only mode of fixing
the correct amount of height of neck in all cases is by
direct measure, division of length or width being both
erroneous, and will lead the cutter who trusts in them
astray.

The Location and Size of Scye.

This may either be done by measuring from the
centre of back or the centre of front : either method
is reliable, though, for our own pare, we prefer mea-
suring from the centre of front, as it is not affected by
any variation in the allowance for making up or ease.
But important as is the location of the front of scye —
and it is one of the most important in the garment —
there is another part which claims an equal share of
attention, viz., the bottom, or what is usually termed
the depth of scye. Tin's may be done in two ways :
either by measuring from waist line upwards, or by
getting a true horizontal line round the figure level
with the bottom of scye with a tape, as illustrated on
Figure 8, or by means of a square. We prefer the
latter method, as the run of waist is often out of the
true horizontal, and liable to be disturbed by fashion,
such as when prominent bustles were worn, the length
of waist being shortened behind. We do not consider
the one-third of the circumference used in connection
with a quantity for the height of neck equal to this
direct measurement method, as the arm develops in
various ways, and when the muscles develop it forms
anything but a circle, and consequently such a method
would provide too much length in the back section.

Provision for Prominences & Depressions.

This is made either by suppression, or what is
equivalent, drawing in and pressing the fulness away.
In practical tailoring there are three relative lengths :
the hollow, the straight, and the round ; and if we
remember the effect of those on the adjoining parts,
we shall be materially helped in fitting the various
forms. Thus, if we cut a hollow back seam, it will fit
very snug down the centre, but as it will be brought
to a straight line when on the figure, it will throw ful .

ness ove" the blades, and if there are no sideseams,
fulness round the back of scye. It is well to remem-
ber that any deviatioi from the straight line for either
back or front, must be made to provide for prominence
or depression, the hollow giving extra room, the
straight being normal, and the round producing short-
ness on all the surrounding parts. Thus, it will be
seen, there are no figures that require a round front
edge to their garments, as there is a development of
breast to be provided for in both male and female
figures : though, if darts are not permissable, the round
front edge may be cut, but it must always be manipu-
lated back to the straight line if a proper fitting
garment is desired. There is one point we must
specially call attention to, viz., suppression at one part
causes fulness both above and below, and the greater
the suppression the greater the fulness, hence the waist
must be suppressed with the view of providing for the
prominence of blades, breasts, &c. Closely allied to
this question of provision for prominence, &c, is

Provision for Muscular Development.

This can only be successfully met by a series of short
sectional measures, starting from fixed points and
groing over those parts where the muscles are likely to
develop. In cutting from block patterns, provision
may be made for this by the insertion of wedges, but it
should be understood that the insertion of the wedge
at any part will have a purely local effect, and, indeed,
it is in this feature of it that its greatest value consists.

In attitude we have a principle of the greatest im-
portance, for unless the attitude of your customer is
duly considered, it will be impossible to produce a fit.
Many cutters meet this successfully by the aid of a
trained eye ; but that takes some time to acquire. We
prefer taking such measures as will of themselves indi-
cate the relative lengths of back and front, which really
constitute the balance. The attitude of the figure
indicates whether they stoop or stand erect, and as
every cutter knows what would fit the one would not
fit the other, it becomes necessary to make it one of the
special points to be observed, regulating in each case
the relative lengths of back and front in accordance
with the customer's requirements. These few ideas on
the principles must suffice, so we now briefly describe the

Measures and how to take them, for

Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmans

&c. Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3.

First, take the size round chest, rather easily, close
up to the bottom of the arms on a level with 7, figure
8 ; next take the waist at x, tightly ; next the

lii£,_

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

level with 5, rather easily, always about 7 inches below
waist. Now put the tape over shoulders and back
under the bottom of armpit as shown on figure 8, and
where the tape crosses the back in the true horizontal,
make a mark at 2. Now take the depth of scye by
measuring from W, 1 to 2 : then natural waist length
from W 1 to 3 : then on to full length to 4, or, for
Ulsters, to 6 ; next take the side length from 7 to 8,
and continue on to 9 for long garments ; next take
the width of back as from 10 to 11, continuing on to
12 for the elbow, and 13 for the cuff ; now come to the
side of the front of the figure, and measure from 14 to
14 for the width across the chest, and then take a mea-
sure over the prominence of bust from 15 to 15 ; next
take the neck measure from W 1 of figure 1, to 16 V
of figure 2 ; then, with the tape still held at W 1, mea-
sure to the bottom of scye at 17, then to the prominence
of bust at 18, on to the hollow of waist at 19, and if
thought desirable to get the full length continue to 20,
and for all full length garments continue to 21. Now
take a measure from 2 of figure 1 up to 22 D, as indi-
cated by dotted line on figure 8, and down to point
17 of figure 2. If thought advisable, these measures
may be supplemented by the width of shoulder, the size
of the sleeve, &c. These measures apply to all body
garments.

For skirts, take the front length from 19 to 21, the
side length from 8 to 9, the back length from 3 to 6,
the size of waist and the size of hips. The same mea-
sures will supply all that is necessary for trousers,
though a measure taken from waist to the seat of a
chair, when the lady is seated, will give a good guide
for the length of leg. A measure from centre of back
to wrist bone will invariably give the accurate length
of leg.

In addition to these, the tight size of knee, small,
and calf must be obtained for breeches and gaiters.

A measure taken round seat and knee, with the leg
raised as in the act of riding, will be useful for Riding
Trains.

On the subject of measuring, a few words of advice
may be useful. Avoid as far as possible nervousness,
and, in every case, arrogance. Take your measures in
a business-like way, and it will be found no lady objects
to any measure being taken that is necessary for the
propel' production of the garment she is ordering. It
is not so much what is done, as how it is done, and if
the cutter can oidy become possessed of that beginning
and middle and end of all business qualifications, tact,
he will find no difficulty in this respect. In measuring,
the cutter should use his eyes well, remembering that
measuring is only a means to an end, and that often
measures can be taken by the eye, which will prove
more valuable in achieving the desired end than any

that can be got by the tape ; indeed, a trained eye is
one of the most valuable acquirements the cutter can
possess.

With the view of supplying our readers with the
average sectional measures of the various sizes, we
append the following scale compiled from measures
actually taken in our own practice.

OheBt

Waist

Scye
Depth

Natrl
Waist

Neck

Across
Back

Full
length
Meeve

across

Chest

Front
sholdr.

Over

Sholdr.

^1
°2

±j?

131

3<)

101

13|

23
24

1 Ufr

26f

271

11
111

141

: i5i

15f

38,

271

15J,

121

161

15|

281

171

! 15|

28^,

131

32i

! 15|

18f

Second Section.

Ladies' Jackets.

We now come to the more practical part of the work,
and so apply the teachings of anatomy and experience
to the various tailor-made garments which come within
the cutter's range We will not occupy space with
arguments on the merits or demerits of the various
modes of cutting, such as by breast measure or direct
measure ; as, to our mind, the variation in the develop-
ment of the bust alone is quite sufficient to put the
breast measure method entirely out of the sphere of
practicability for ladies' garments, and when we know
the variation in form met with at different ages, this is
still further pronounced. The lady who has reached
the condition of " fat, fair and forty," bears little re-
semblance to the ideal type of womanly beauty to be
met with amongst ladies of from twenty to thirty ;
hence the only method in the adoption of which we
can see a fair prospect of success, is by the aid of

some system of shoulder or direct measures, using the
measures taken on each customer to draft her pat-
tern by. We know cases do often occur where for some
reason or other, the cutter may not be able to take his
measures direct, and when the only course open to him
is to fall back upon the teachings of previous expe-
rience, and use a set of measures taken on some other
lady, using the natural waist lengths, chest, and length
of sleeve as guides to help him in his selection. But as
some of our readers may not have the result of previous
experience to fall back upon, we have endeavoured to
supply them with examples fi'om our own measure
book, the scale on page 6 being an average of the
sectional measures for the various chest measures, from
24 to 44, and which, we doubt not will prove useful.

' S. B. tight-fitting Jacket.

We select a set of measures from our order book by
which to draft out a plain, close-fitting, single-breasted
Jacket ; they run as follows : S depth of scye, 15^
natural waist, 2."> full length, 1\ side length, 0 across
back, 18^ to elbow, 28 full length of sleeve, ~\ across
chest, 8f across over busts, 1\ neck, 12 front shoulder,
14 nape to prominence, 19 nape to hollow of waist in
centre of front, 1(! over shoulder, 36 chest, 20 waist, 46
hips. We apply these measures as follows : see

Diagram 1, Plate 4.

Commence by drawing lines 0, 22^, 0 2\, at right
angles, and mark off 0 to 2-f one-sixth of the natural
waist (this may be varied higher or lower if desired to
produce any given effect to the style. It will not affect
the fit, as any variation would be compensated for in
the shoulders of forepart) ; 0 to 8 is the depth of scye,
0 to 15^ is the natural waist length, 0 to 22\ is 7
inches below the waist to find the level of the hips, 0
to 25 is the full length of jacket required, plus seams
(i inch). Draw lines at right angles to all these points,
with the exception of the last, and make 0 \o 2^ one-
third neck, from which come up § inch, and draw back
neck. Now come in from lf>f> one inch, and draw back
seam springing it out below 15| to join the straight line
again at 22\. In measuring across the width of back, it
is well to apply the measure, plus 2 seams {\ inch) about
2 inches below line 2§, and spring out with a slight
curve, till it meets point 63 ; this will be easily gathered
by a reference to diagram ; now draw a straight line
from f to G|, and hollow it slightly between £ and W
as shown. Next measure across from \ to 20^, the
half chest measure, plus 2 inches for making up, ease,
&c, which amount must be varied, allowing more for
thick and less for thin materials ; the quantity quoted
is a good general average. From 204 measure back to

12^, the average between the across chest and the
across bust measures ; thus : ~\ + 8| = 16, half of
which is 8, and by this means find the front of scye.
We next proceed to form

The Front Shoulder.

Measure from 0 to f , and whatever it may be, de-
duct it from the front shoulder length, and by the
remainder sweep from 12f, in the direction illustrated
by 12 ; now add £ inch to this quantity, and sweep
again from point 20^, and where the two arcs intersect
each other locates the neck point F. Let it be clearly
understood the back neck is deducted before the sweeps
are made ; the first one from \2\ is the ne.t length of
front shoulder, after the back neck has been taken off,
and the sweep from 20^ is this quantity, with f inch
added. Having got this point, measure forward on a
level parallel to line \2\, 2()h, from F to V, the one-
third of neck, and so find point V, which make a pivot
of, and sweep the gorge from F to I. Now draw the
breast line from V through point 2(H quite straight
through 22 and 23^. We must now return to the
shoulder. Measure the distance from ^ to W, deduct
it from the over shoulder measure, and by the remain-
der sweep from 12 in the direction illustrated by Hi D, '
and so find the scye end of shoulder. Now measure <&$
the width of back from | to 6|, and make F to D a full \
\ inch narrower than the back ; give a little round to
this seam towards I). Now shape the scye, keeping it
as hollow as possible above point 12^, and as close up
at the top of sideseam above 8 and 4| as possible, con-
sistent with harmony of outline. The top of sideseams
will require a little readjustment as illustrated ; after
w7e have located

The Position of the Seams,

Measure back from 12^ to \\\ one inch, and divide
the distance from f, to llf, into three equal parts or
nearly equal parts, arranging it so that any little extra
which may not be easily divisable may be given to the
back, as from ^ to 44; ; having got points 44 and 8 in
this way, we must next fix the waist line ; measuring
from N to E the side length, plus 1 seam (} inch), and
so find E ; next apply the front length of waist, mea-
suring from F to T the measure taken from nape to
hollow of waist in front, allowing 1 inch for seams,
after having deducted the width of back neck. Now
draw the waist line from 15^ to E, and E to T. Make
the back at waist line from 1 to 3 half the width it is
at i, 4}, and connect 3 4| up to > with a gradual
curve : continue the bottom of back, below 3 at right
angles to line 1 3, and the outline of back is complete.
Before we proceed with the sidebody, there are two
sweeps to make, one from pivot \\, sweeping from seam

IfcsSL

.321

above the top of back seam to find the top of sidebody.
A reference to diagram will make this plain ; then
sweeping from 3 to -4- at waist, making the top sideseam
the pivot, so that the waist seam of sidebody appears
dropped at 4. Many will ask why all this extra length
is required in the sidebody ? We will explain. When-
ever a seam is taken from a hollow, such as the side-
seam of back, the seam is at once lengthened ; whereas,
whenever a seam is taken from a round, such as the
sideseam of sidebody, the seam is shortened ; and if
some plan is followed to avoid getting the sidebody too
short ; the back will either have to be fulled on, or the
waist of sidebody will be nearly an inch above the
waist of back, and so completely destroy the fit in that
particular.

In order that each reader may impi'ess the im-
portance of these sweeps on his mind, we think it
would be good practice to take a back pattern, mark a
seam off the edge 4 \ 3, and measure with the tape to see
how it increases in length, then take the sidebody, mark
a seam from the edge, and note how it at once becomes
shorter. It will then be apparent how very impoitant
these sweeps are ; but no w we come to that important
question of

Waist Suppression.

We have previously pointed out, when dealing with
the principles of cutting, that suppression at one part
causes fulness at another ; here, then, we have the key
to the matter, for in accordance with the amount of
the suppression will be the provision for the promi-
nence, and consequently we need to gauge the amount
of the prominence to be provided for. In our own
practice, we have found it best to have a fixed quantity
for the normal figure, and vary from it for prominent
or flat blades ; and consequently we take out 1 inch
between back and sidebody between 3 and 4, making it
less for flat blades and more for prominent blades ;
hence it will be seen the waist suppression between
back and sidebody is to be governed by the prominence
of the blades, and so on with all the prominences round
the body. From 4 to 1\ is \ an inch less than 4£, 8 ;
1 inch is taken out from 1\ to 8^, and the width of
sidepiece is also fixed at \ an inch less than at top ;
another inch is taken out between 1 1^ and 12^ ; thus
it will be gathered we take out 1 inch at all three
seams for an ordinarily developed figure. In the case
of a very small waist, such as would indicate compres-
sion by means of the corsets, all of these may be
increased to 1J, or in extreme cases to 1^ inches. The
various seams may now be drawn from the points thus
found on the depth of scye line and the waist line, and
we then proceed to arrange

The Front Darts.

As a good deal of style may be introduced by their
aid, it will be as well to give them a careful considera-
tion. Measure up the various parts, as from 1 to 3, 4
to 7|, 8£ to \\\, and 124. to 22. Now take half the
waist measure ; add about 2 inches for making up, and
whatever is over and above that quantity indicates the
amount to be taken out in the darts. Thus the various
parts measure up 18 ; the half waist measures 13, plus
2 inches for making up makes 15, leaving 3 inches to
be taken out in darts. This is taken out as follows :
Measure back from the breast line at T 1^ inches, and
find 20jj ; now halve the amount to be taken out, or if
it will not divide easily, take rather less than half for
the front dart, and mark from 2<>i to 19 ; let the strap
between 19 and 17^, be always 1 k inches, and take out
the remainder from 17^ to 10. Now mark the centre
of the spaces allotted for the darts, and draw a line
parallel to the breast line as a guide for the direction
of the darts, which should always run rather forward
at the bottom and back at the top, so as to give as
much appearance of width to the chest and as much
length to the waist as possible. Now get the top of
the darts at C by measuring down from 0 F to C, the
length to prominence as taken on the customer, allow-
ing 1 inch, as the darts always come higher when sewn
than when cut. Having got the top of the darts,
sweep from 20^ and 17-i, in order to get the correct
relative length of the sides of the darts, and then
draw lines from top to these centres, as lti, 17^, 10,
20tj. To terminate the darts at the bottom, a certain
amount of judgment is necessary. If the stomach is
fairly flat, terminate the dart 10 inches below the waist ;
if slightly prominent, terminate it 8 inches below the
waist line, and so on. Soften down any angle that
may be in the outline at the waist, and the darts are
complete. We next pi-oceed to provide for

The Spring over the Hips.

This requires very considerable adjustment in these
days of small pads and large bustles. As noted in the
measuring, the size of hips should be taken easily,
about 7 inches below the waist, and it is on this mea-
sure we depend for guidance now. Line 22^, 23^ is 7
inches below the waist ; we measure from 22% to 23|,
omitting the amount taken out in the darts at 17^ and
21. Add 3 inches to the half hip measure, and what-
ever the pattern measures too small, divide into 3 equal
or nearly equal quantities, and let the various parts over-
lap each other as illustrated at f , f and 1 on this hip
line, always giving to the forepart any little extra that
is not easily divided. It will be noticed a dotted line.

o^'iflajyPi^

-^^r^fee^-

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS.

is drawn at right angles from the centre of the space
between 1\ and 8, and 11^ and \2\ as a guide to get
the run of the seam towards the front, so that the front
overlaps from there backward. If our readers have
paid attention to the anatomical lessons, they will at
once realize the importance of springing out sharply
from the waist line downwards, especially at \2\. The
back is squared at right angles to 3, and the run of the
sidebody at back is got by drawing a line from :i
through | to the bottom. It will be observed that the
sidebody comes a little below the back, which is neces-
sary owing to point 4 being a little lower than 3 ; the
back and sidebody really require to be the same length
downwards from 3. The relative length of back and
front is quite a matter of taste, and as fashions change
so rapidly, we will refrain from laying down any de-
finite rule. The bottom of both sidebodies should be
slightly rounded at the bottom, otherwise when the
seams are sewn, there will be a point at the seams, and
a hollow between, which must be adjusted if the jacket
is desired to be satisfactory.

The Button Stand

Is the last thing to be arranged previous to cutting,
and this must be done in harmony with the style of
edge desired. The average for a stitched edge would
be 1 inch on the hole side, and 1^ inches on button
side : a quarter of an inch more is necessary for a
double stitched edge, and a quarter inch less for a
bound edge, unless it is a very wide binding. It may
be as well to explain why more is allowed on the button
side. The breast line as from V to 23^ should repre-
sent the meeting edge to edge line, the true centre of
the front. The extra half inch on the button side is
needed to avoid the under garment showing through
the end of the hole. In the event of the garment
being desired to hook and eye, it should be cut merely
1 seam ([ inch) beyond the breast line, whilst for dou-
ble breasted styles, a varying amount must be left be-
yond, or a lapel sewn on according to the style desired.
But of these we shall deal with presently, so we will
now give a few

Hints on Making.

Use especial care with the neck and waist sections to
get them the right size. Let the shoulder be slightly
stretched on all three sides, and be careful to avoid
getting the collar on tight in the hollow below point
F. See that the lining has plenty of surplus length to
allow of the bend at the collar seam, indeed, it will be
a »ood plan to always put a pleat in the lining of the
shoulders, as is customary for vests. If the lady has
prominent breasts, use every possible precaution to
avoid getting the front of scye at 12^ full ; keep your

sleeve rather tight there, putting any fulness there may
be in the underside at X, or taking it out with a fish.
If thought advisable, put a little wadding at \2\, but
it must always be borne in mind, this will have the
effect of reducing rather than emphasizing the pro-
minence.

If any padding or wadding is put in the breast, it
should be carefully and skilfully done — nicely graded
away, and for this purpose we have found horse-hair
the most useful, not the horse-hair to be obtained by
the yard at most trimming warehouses, but the loose-
horse-hair obtainable at the saddlers. Care must of
course be taken to secure it firmly, if that is done, it
will be found that it can be graded off very much
nicer than can be done with wadding or cloth.

The waist section requires very considerable care in
making. All the parts should be slightly stretched at
the seams and shrunk in the centre as is usual with the
sidebody of body coat for men. See that the waist
does not make up too large, as some materials are very
elastic, and it is difficult to exactly guage the amount
to be consumed in making. In some loose materials it
will be found advantageous to baste strips of linen to
all the parts at the waist, and sew it in with all tbe
seams to prevent it stretching. It is a very good plan
to measure up the size of the waist after all the scams
are sewn, except the underarm seam, and then adjust
the size at that seam.

Snip the button stand at waist and insert a V to
enable it to lie smooth on the opposite side. Put all
the linings in very long over the waist, as the sharp
curve of the body at that part demands it. Always
remember that whenever there is a hollow on the body,
the lining must be longer than the outside.

A waist band should be made up to the size of waist,
and fastened to the centre and sideseams of back ; it
steadies the garment and keeps it close in to the figure
at the back, and also relieves the strain on the waist
of jacket. If the garment is S. B. to button through,
always arrange the eye of the hole to come on the
breast line on the one forepart, and the button on the
breast line of the other ; otheiwise the buttons will not
come down the centre of figure. We are frequently
asked on which side to put the holes in a lady's jacket.
To this Ave can only reply, that there appears to be no
universal custom amongst ladies' tailors. There can be
no doubt, however, that ladies' are more accustomed to
have them on the right side, and by ladies' tailors this
is most usually done ; and as habit beomes second
nature with many, it will be well to consider this mat-
ter carefully before putting them in the left side as is
occasionally done by some ladies' tailors, and universal
with all gent's garments. We shall now proceed to
deal with some of the varieties of

.^i^ta^ik-qr.

■'-SST^erpv-

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

Loose-fronted Jackets.

Plate 5.

For several seasons past, loose-fitting fronts have
been very much patronised by ladies ; indeed, at the
present time, there are probably few more popular
jackets than the styles illustrated on this page of dia-
grams. Diagram 2 and figure 12 has a dash and go
about it, which recommends it to those who like some-
thing a little dressy and stylish. When these jackets
were first introduced, they were the source of much
worry to even the most experienced ladies' cutters, and
it was found that many patterns which produced most
perfect fitting tight jackets, were anything but satis-
factory when used for loose-fitting fronts ; hence it
was found that something more was necessary, besides
omitting the darts, in order to produce these jackets to
perfection. The great difficulty many had to contend
with, was tightness at the bottom of the front, below
the waist, causing a nasty drag from under the bottom
of the arm to stomach ; this was soon traced to the
front edge being too long, or perhaps, what a good
many people would call too crooked. Needless for us
to say, this defect was more apparent amongst those
cutters who patronise a round front edge, and which we
have so often pointed out as wrong in principle ; and
although it may, and undoubtedly does, produce pass-
able fits, if not overdone, for tight-fitting garments,
yet, when applied to loose-fitting fronts, it is a failure ;
hence it is of the greatest importance that the line
drawn from V through 20i should be quite straight,
that being the shortest possible distance between two
points, and so producing that shortness of front edfre
absolutely necessary to balance the foreparts, and cause
them to hang gracefully down the fronts. But there
are other changes also necessary ; for this straightness
of the front edge, combined with the darts being omit-
ted, make it far too large round the bottom, and espe-
cially over the hips ; hence the necessity of taking out
more between sidepiece and forepart at waist ; from H
to 2 inches is the amount we have found to suit the
majority of customers, and just letting the forepart
and sidepiece meet at the bottom. With these varia-
tions from the close-fitting jacket, previously explained
we have been able to turn out most successful garments
for the majority of ladies ; the exception being with
those who are very prominent at the bust, when the
shortness of the front caused a fulness to appear at the
front of scye. With such figures, we found it advisable
to take out a small dart from about 2 inches in front
of the side at 12 J, and terminating just below the pro-
minence ; this had the effect of not only providing a
receptacle for the bust, but also made the waist to fit
snug at the sides — always a desideratum in loose-front-

ed jackets. As far as the cutting of this class of jacket
is concerned, we think we have said enough to point
out the special features to be observed, and the dangers
to be avoided, so we will now pass on to give a few
hints on the various styles in which these are being
worn.

The D. B. Yachting,

As illustrated on diagram 2 and figure 12 is produced
by adding about 2h inches beyond the breast line all
the way through, and carefully arranging the shape at
the top to agree with the style of lapel desired ; the
one indicated is such as we should adopt for Yacht-
ing Costumes, or when it is intended to have a collar
and turn after the style of gent's Reefers ; but inas-
much as this is a matter of taste, and ladies take a
wide view of what is taste, there are naturally many
variations in this matter of lapels ; for instance, many
were made up during the past few months, with only
one lapel and stand collar, indeed the under forepart
was cut away to the breast line, and the lapel on the
one side made much heavier than it would otherwise
have been, and faced with fur or velvet. As we write,
one of the newest styles of these jackets has a roll collar.

The Beatrice, figure 13, diagram 3, is another style
which is very popular, it is either finished with a stand
or fall cohar as may be desired. When made with an
ordinary S. B. collar and turn, it is especially suitable
for lawn tennis or boating jackets. For this style it is
only necessary to add about 1 inch for button stand
beyond the breast line, whilst many cut them away
from just below point 22| in order to show about 2 or
3 inches of vest at the waist ; thus endless varieties
may be produced.

There is just one other style we muet notice, as it
has had a most unprecedented run, especially in seal-
skin, seal plushes, and so on ; we refer to the Macbeth,
figure 14, diagram 4, which fastens over on the one
shoulder, and running off to nothing at the bottom.
The easiest way to cut these is to fold the pattern over
at the breast line I T, and cut the gorge on the double,
and carry the one side as far over the shoulder as
thought desirable, generally to within about 1 inch of
the scye seam, and then shaping the front edge from
this point, either straight or curved, as tiste may direct,
and letting it just overlap about 1 inch at the bottom.
With this style it is customary to cut the under fore-
part only to reach to the breast line, but this, too, is a
matter of taste, and consequently often varied.

The Position of the Seams.

The position allotted to the various seams have much
to do with the harmony in the general outline of the
garment, and it behoves every cutter to make this fea

.p^^^M,

ture a special study, so that he may give each customer
just that outline most suited to her figure, and so bring
into prominence those points of beauty which exist in
a more or less degree in every figure. Now, although
for our own part we like to see the sidebody, sidepiece,
and back about the same width on the depth of scye
line, as described when dealing with the tight-fitting
jacket, yet it does not by any means follow that any
other division would be unsatisfactory ; so our readers
may use their individual taste to the fullest extent so
long as they retain the same, or nearly the same, waist
suppression ; but it will be well to bear in mind that it
is always advisable to hring the wndtrarm seam as for-
ward as possible ; as, whilst facilitating the fit over the
hips, it also keeps the waist at side closer to the figure.
What we have said in regard to the variations in the
position of the seams applies with equal force all over.

Hints on Making.

Much that we have said in reference to dia. 1 on this
subject will apply with equal force to these garments ;
such, for instance, as the putting the lining in long
over the waist, especially in the back ; putting a waist
band to keep it firm at back and sides, and so on ;
whilst the mode of putting in the pockets is as varied for
these garments as they are for gents'. Care should be
used in puttii g on the collar to keep it easy in the hol-
low just below F ; whilst in the front, just beyond the
break, it should be rather tight, as also in sewing round
the back, there should be the least degree of tightness,
thereby facilitating the fit behind ; but, above all
things, it is necessary to put it on easy in the hollow,
for apart from the fact that when a seam is taken off
the gorge at that point, it becomes longer, and in like
manner the collar becomes shorter ; the neck also rises
out of the trunk very decidedly at that part, and re-
quires the gorge to be well stretched. This is more
noticeable with short-necked figures, with whom the
muscles of the neck come up very suddenly.

Silk facings are often put on the lapels of the D.B.
styles, as diagram 2, to come up to the end of the holes,
when these garments are made from black Vicunas and
Worsteds ; and they then make a very stylish garment.
The position of the buttons is a frequent source of
difficulty to the inexperienced ; but it need not be so
if they only have the breast line to guide them, when
the following simple plan will be found thoroughly
reliable : Put the tape on the breast line, and sweep
from the eye of the hole once from a point below the
level, and again from a point above the level, and
where these intersect each other is the proper place to
locate the button.

waistband should invariably be placed at the waist

behind, as it not only keeps it steady and prevents it
twisting, but it also keeps it close to the waist.

Braided Jackets.

Plate 6.

On this Plate we illustrate the various methods of
braiding jackets ; they are mostly of a military charac-
ter. Before we deal with each style separately, we shall
make a brief reference to the effect the different
styles have on the body. Those having the braid run-
ning only in a horizontal manner, give the effect of
width, which, although frequently very desirable, must
not be done at the expense of the length, except in
very tall, thin figures. To counteract the shortening
tendency of these plain horizontal row0, drop loops,
rows of eyes, and braid laid on in a vertical direction
are introduced. Take, for instance, diagram 13. The
braid on the edges introduces one line, the eyes above
and below each row of braid across the front intr< duce
two more rows, and the drop loops introduce two
more, so that there are five rows of ornaments running
in a vertical, as well as five in a horizontal, direction ;
and as the horizontal rows get narrower at the waist,
several effects are produced. Length is added, width
is added, and by the emphasis given to the width of
the shoulders, the waist appears relatively small.

Diagram 5,

Illustrates a style of braiding very popular with ladies.
A row of flat mohair braid is put all round the ed<;e,
and rows of tubular braid from \ to f inch wide are
laid across the front. In this diagram each row is
terminated with an Austrian knot, a p'an which may
be varied in the style illustrated by diagram (i, which
represents the drop loop for Rifle garments or diagram
7, as used in the army for the artillery and engineers,
when sometimes the eyes in the centre are omitted ;
or the style illustrated on diagram 13 may be used,
which is the plan followed for Infantry garments.
The braid is always started from the loop end, the
finish being arranged under one of the cress overs.
Care must be used to prevent the ends of the braid
from fraying, the best plan being to wind cotton or
thread round the end several times, and so securely
fasten it. Loops of braid are invariably left beyond
the edge on the one side, to fasten over the olivets or
buttons placed on the edge of the other. If this is
not done, a very long neck will have to be put to the
buttons. A master tailor of the army, stationed at
Malta, recently spent amonth at our Cutting Academy,
and he kindly showed us the methods he adopted to
arrange these drop loops and Austrian knots.

.a^ig^t^yi^ct

.&&&

-^TS^I^T^

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

Diagram 8

Is a piece of cardboard. It will be noticed there is a
notch at the bottom of dotted line A ; this is placed on
the centre line, the point B being also arranged on this
line, when the outline is to be marked round as per
solid line 1, 2, :?, 4, diagram 10. Now turn the card
over to the other side, still with notch A and point B
on centre line, and mark as per dot and dash line 5 6 7 :
the small loop above 1 7 may then be formed by rock
of eye, and to complete the bottom of the knot, turn
the card upside down, fitting the circle in to the out-
line :! 4. and mark as from 5 to 6, and the Austrian
knot is complete. Full instructions for tying these
was given in Part I., so we will not again repeat them,
merely remarking that throughout the entire knot the
braid should run over and under the whole way.

Diagram 9

Represents the piece of card the master tailor referred
to used to mark the drop loops, the same as illustrated
on diagram 13 : a line is drawn in the direction the
loop should point, and the top B and the notch at A
are both kept on this line, the larger part of this oval
being on the outside. Now turn the pattern round so
that A B still rests on the line, but with the larger part
on the inside. If this course is followed many of the
difficulties of braiding will vanish, and what was looked
upon as a difficult matter will be very simple.

Diagram 11

Illustrates the artillery style of braiding. This is fre-
quently done with a round cord, but the cord is not so
easy to manipulate as the braid ; the rows of braid
should go very narrow at the waist and as broad as
possible at the shoulders, often extending right to the
shoulder seam. Ball buttons are the correct style of
fastening down the front, though of course this is only
the ornamental fastening, the real fastening being done
by hooks and eyes. The edges are invariably braided
with flat mohair braid. The back of the jacket should
be trimmed in harmony.

Diagram 14

Represents one very good style ; strictly speaking, this
i- the style of back that goes with

The Infantry Forepart. Diagram 13.

But as there are no regulations for ladies' garments,
this is often used, as it is very effective and very sim-
ple. The military regulation trimming for the Artillery
Jacket has a crow's toe at top, and an Austrian knot
pointed towards the sideseam.

The braid across this forepart is generally of the
tabular make and about £ inch wide, the top row
reaching to the scye seam and sometimes overlapping
it and graduating down narrower to the waist. Further
details of this style of front will be found in the des-
cription of diagram 5.

Diagram 15. The Guards.

This style of braiding is very effective, the braid is
the same on the edges and across the front, the ends
are finished with a sprat's head, and olivets arranged
up each front. The details of this are so clearly brought
out in the diagram, that it is not necessary for us to
give any elaborate description in the letterpress.

Jackets made in this style are often made with loose-
fitting fronts, the braiding showing off rather more to
advantage in that style than in close-fitting garments.
The braid is generally mohair from f to 1 inch wide.

Diagram 12,

h a little variation from the Austrian knot ; an extra
loop is introduced on either side, and as the same in-
structions given for them will apply, we will not go
into further detail, merely calling attention to this as a
very popular style of braiding for loose-fitting fronts,
the long loops being arranged to fasten over the olivets
on either side, as the taste of the wearer may dictate.

Ladies' S.B. Newmarket. Diagram 16.

The popularity of the Skirted Jacket, at the time we
write, is so great, that it may fairly be looked upon as
likely to occupy an important place in the standard
styles for some years to come, and as there are many
variations in the style, we select two of the most
popular, and by describing the principles embodied in
their production, lay a foundation from which our
readers may be able to form any of the various styles
which have, or may, become popular.

Figure 19

Illustrates the S. B. style, with neat collar and turn,
flaps are placed on the hips to cover the Y's on hips.

The system for producing the body part is precisely
the same as described for the Jacket, so we refer our
readers to that for the upper part, and proceed to deal
with the first special features, viz., the run of the waist
seam, and though this is largely a matter of taste, it
may be as well for us to lay down some definite quan-
tities as guides for the inexperienced. In doing so, it
must be borne in mind that the quantities quoted are
merely looked upon as guides.

Commencing at the back, then, we come down 2\ or
8 inches from the waist line, about 2 inches at the side»

.P^j^ty^0-

and 8 to 3^ at the front, taking care to adjust all the
seams to agree with those to which they are intended
to join, making all the parts slightly round at bottom.
As will be seen, the back is continued to the full length,
about 1 inch being left on either side, as illustrated on
diagram, for the formation of side pleats and opening
in back ; the style of finish most usual for these being
the same as for gent's body coats, though sometimes
box pleats are placed at the centre of back ; when it
will be necessary to allow 3^, 7 or 10^ inches according
a single, double or treble box pleats are desired, at pre-
sent, however, these are the exception for this style of
jacket. We now pass on to deal with

The Skirt System. Diagram 17.

Draw lines 0 G, 0 23 at right angles, making 0 23
half the nett size of seat ; measure down from 0 to 7
7 inches always, and square line across to 7 in the front.
Now come in from 0 to 1, 1 inch, and draw line A, G
from 1 through 7 : come back from 23 to '22\ f of an
inch, and draw line from 22£ through F and 7 to get
the run of the front. Next measure the depth of the
body part below waist line at back, sides, and front,
and whatever that is, come down from line 0, 1, 23 to
find the run of the waist seam of the skirt. Now mea-
sure the width of the sidebody at bottom, and make A
to B of the skirt the same ; take out 1 to 1^ inches in
a V from B to C, and make C to D the same width as
the bottom of the sidepiece. Now measure the width
of the forepart after the seams are sewn, or allow for
the seams in measuring, and make F to E what it mea-
sures. The distance from E to 1) is taken out in a V,
when the skirt will only need plain sewing to the body
part. Many ladies at present, however, prefer having
the extra quantity fulled on over the hips, after the
style usual for gents' body coats, only of course there is
very much more fulness. If this latter method is
desired, it will of course be necessary to omit the V's
B C and D E.

Add half an inch of round at 7, and mark off the
length from A to G in accordance with the customer's
wishes, making due allowance for the seams. As
fashion goes at present, it is customary to arrange the
skirt so that it appears level all round, when I G and
2->\, H would be the same, but of course this may be
varied at will, as also may the run of skirt in the front,
many ladies having them cut away so as to show a
much wider opening than our illustration shows.

Flaps are arranged to go on the hips about 3h inches
deep, and generally wide enough to cover the V's, the
flap being cut without V's as illustrated on diagram 2o.
When the skirt is closed at top, the hollow of the waist
seam is taken as a guide for the top of the flaps, the
loose part being arranged to taste.

D.B. Newmarket. Dias. 18, 19 and 20,

With the D.B. Newmarket we introduce the subject
of lapels. The easiest way to cut a lapel is to use the
front edge as a guide to cut the sewing-to-edge by, and
to shape the outside to taste. It will be found very
beneficial if the bottom of forepart is sprung out a lit-
tle below waist line, from the original straight front
edge as drawn for S.B., in which case the lapel would
overlap at the bottom as per dot and dash line below T.
It is very difficult to lay down any definite guide in the
matter of lapel, they are of course made narrower at
the waist. Both character and style may be infused
into a jacket by the outline of these lapels. Seeing
then that the outside edge of the lapel is so much
a matter of taste, we will only further remark that it is
a forepart in minature, all parts intending to be used
to fit being cut exactly the same as the forepart it is to
go over.

In making up garments with a lapel, it is an ad-
vantage to put hooks and eyes at the lapel seam ; it
steadies the garment in wear, though of course it has
the disadvantage of only allowing the garment to be
worn buttoned on one side. We will now proceed to
give

Another Skirt System, Diagram 19.

Draw line 0, (J, (), C ; come down from 0 to 6, 6
inches ; go out 1 inch and draw line from 0 through
1 ; add h an inch of round as illustrated, and the back
is complete. Now come up from line 0, C, at A what-
ever the waist seam is hollowed, drawing a line from
bottom of sidebody and bottom of front : in this case
the waist seam is hollowed 1 inch. Make from 0 to A
the same width as the bottom of the sidebody ; take
out 1^ or 2 inches in a V, terminating it about :;.',
inches down. Make the space from A to B about the
same as the width of sidepiece, and take out another 1^
inches ; make space from B to 2 the same width as the
forepart after the seams are sewn ; come up from C to
2, 2 inches, more or less according to the amount of
drapery desired at sides. If this is made much more
than 2 inches, the amount to be taken out in V's at
A B may be reduced. Now finish the waist seam by
drawing from A, B to 2 To get the run of the front,
mark up from 2 to 4 the same amount as previously
come up from C to 2 ; then take the square, and use
point 0, 4 as the base by which to draw the run of
front at right angles. Arrange the relative length of
back and front of skirt to taste and the skirt is com-
plete, with the exception of leaving on down the back
a due provision for the style of pleat desired ; if the
ordinary side pleat is desired, 1 inch will be sufficient.
In cutting

^ragSppr

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

The Flap, Diagram 20,

Take the skirt pattern and close the V's of waist-
seam, and mark round just that part the flap is desired
to cover. Flaps are of course usually arranged on the
hips so as to cover the V's taken out there. The dotted
line A B represents A B of diagram 19. This is really
all the fitting part there is, for the marking of the out-
line is purely a matter of taste, and as such it is very
varied. The outline of diagram 20 illustrates the
general style of outline used by tailors, but we have
also seen a large number made pointed at either end
and one point in the centre. This enables extra
deep darts being hid without the flaps being made ex-
ceptionally heavy, if the points are carefully adjusted
to the V's.

Pockets are sometimes placed under these flaps, but
they are more frequently made sham.

There is one other very important class we have not
yet treated of, viz., the

Jacket and Vest

Style, or Jacket with Vest fronts added to the side-
seams. These are very popular, and as they allow
ample scope for the introduction of ornamental trim-
ming, either braid or contrasting material there is little
doubt they will continue to be so, for they have a style
so distinctly their own, and have such a careful grace-
ful appearance that whether it is summer or winter,
this class of jacket hold their own, for in winter the
vest may be made of fur whilst in summer there are
plenty of makers of fancy yestings suitable, so that it
is distinctly an all the year round style, but inasmuch
as we are giving a full description of all kinds of Vests
in another chapter, we have omitted special diagrams
and description to explain the system purposely, as the
Jackets are cut in exactly the same way as others, the
fronts being more generally loose-fronted aud often cut
away ; sometimes arranged to merely hook and eye at
the neck, and at others arranged with a collar and
turn, but in any case the outline of diagram 3 may
be followed, the fronts being merely cutaway in accord-
ance with taste, and the Vest front sewn in with the
side, scye, and shoulder seams. A reference to the
chapter on vests will doubtless make this matter quite
clear.

This concludes our section on Jackets. "We have
treated of tight-fitting, loose-fitting, single-breasted,
double-breasted, and skirted styles of Jackets, and
although doubtless there are many we have not illus-
trated, yet our aim has been to take representatives of
each class, and so lay the foundation for our readers
to develop any outline they may think fit.

Section Three.

Bodices.
Dia. 21. Figs. 21 and 22. Plate 10.

As the Dress Bodice is probably one of the most im-
portant garments ladies' tailors have to deal with, we
will treat of it as fully as possible, and as there are
many points of difference to the Jacket System, we
will describe it in detail, although our readers will at
once recognise the same principle involved in both.
The measures we take for these are as follows : depth
of scye, natural waist, full length of back, side length
from the bottom of armpit to natural waist over the
hips, width across baok ; continue to elbow and on
to full length of cuff with the arm bent; width
across chest, width across bust, half neck from nape
to front, front shoulder from nape to bottom of scye
in front. Nape to prominence of breast, nape to
hollow of waist in front, over shoulder from depth of
scye on back over shoulder from depth of scye on back
over the shoulder and down in the front of scye to the
bottom of armpit ; size of chest, size of waist and size
of hips. These measures would probably run as fol-
lows, 8^ depth of scye, 15^ natural waist, 21^ full
length, 7\ side length, 5^ width across back, 19 con-
tinue to elbow, 27^ to full length of sleeve, 7 3- width
across chest, 8f width across bust, 1\ neck, 12 front
shoulder, 13 nape to prominence, 19 nape to hollow of
waist, 16 over shoulder, 36 chest, 26 waist, 44 hips.

The application of these measures are as follows, see

Diagram 6.

Draw line 0 21|, and proceed to mark off 0 to 2 £
natural waist ; 0 to 8^ the depth of scye as taken on
the customer, 0 to 15^ the natural waist length, and 0
to 2lh the full length desired, plus seams (^ inch) ;
draw line at right angles to these various points, and
proceed by coming in one inch at natural waist, and
draw line from 0 to 1, and continue back seam hy
springing it out below 1, till it meets line at 21|. From
0 to 2.i is £ neck, from which come up f inches ; mea-
sure across from 2 to 6 the width of back, plus 2 seams
(^ inch), and from ^ to 20 the half chest, plus U or
2 i ches for making up, ease, &c. This allowance
must be varied according to judgment, allowing more
of the material is thic < and unyielding ; and less if the
material is thin and elastic. If the garment is desired
easy fitting, allow the larger quantity. From 20 mea-
sure back to 12 the average between the across chest
and across bust, thus : 1\ + 8| = 16, half this
which is the amount to come back from point 20 to
find the front of scye. We next proceed to get

5ii£u

■^rgfee^

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS.

The front Shoulder.

Deducting 0, f from the front shoulder measure 12,
and by the remainder sweep to find point F, using
point 12 as the pivot ; now add f inch to this quantity,
and sweep again from 20 as illustrated by dotted line
12f, and where these two segments cross each other
locates the neck point F ; now measure the distance
from \ to W of the back, deduct this from the over
shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep from
point 12 to find D, so that this sweep finds the shoulder
slope. The width of front shoulder as from F to D is
\ inch less than width of back from f in the direction
of W. Come forward from F to V £ neck, make V a
pivot, and sweep gorge from F, then draw the centre
line of breast from V + through 20 ; now draft the
rcye, keeping it as hollow as possible above point 12,
and well up at A B. We next turn our attention to

The position of Seams.

Come back from 12 one inch, and find point 11 :
divide the distance from 11 to h, into 4 equal parts as
illustrated at 3£, 6, 8^, 11 ; make the width of back
from 1 to 2^, half the distance from ^ to 3£, and draw
sideseam from A through 3 J, 2\, continuing below 2^
at right angles to 15^, 2^. Now, before we proceed
further, we think it will be well to apply side length
from bottom of scye to find the run of the waist line,
allowing J inch for seams ; next apply the length of
front as from 0 F to 21^, as illustrated by 19 + 1,
the 1 inch being allowed to compensate for the seams.
Having found these points, draw the waist line from
2^ to 11, and on to 21^ ; having got this, we proceed
with locating the seams ; next sweeping from point 3^
as at A to find the top of sidebody, then use point A
and sweep from point 2^, and then we draw the waist
line for sidebody as illustrated. But before we go any
further, we must consider the importance of

The Waist Suppression,

Which we generally arrange by fixed quantities, vary-
ing it according to judgment by increasing it for
prominent blades, and reducing it for flat. The
amount we usually take out between back and sidebody
is | of an inch as at 2\, 3], and draw the sidebody as
shown, taking out a little at A. Make the width of
sidebody from 3|- to 5£, \ an inch less than from 3 j- to

6 ; come from 5i

to6H

of an inch : and make the

width of first sidepiece \ an inch less than 6, 8| ; take
out | of an inch from 8^ to 9, and make the width of
the second sidepiece \ an inch less than 8^, 11, and
take out 1 inch from 11 to 12. Now measure up the
various parts at the waist, as from 1 to 2| ; 3| to h\ :

— —— — — &L

6y to 8^ ; and 9 to 11 ; and then apply it from 12 to
21i, and then reduce the waist to measure by means of

The Forepart Darts,

Allowing dbont \\ ; inches for making up. This may
appear a small quantity to allow for no less than 14
seams, but experience tells lis it is more often too much
than too little, the elasticity of the material, and the
desire to get a tight-fitting waist being factors not to
be overlooked. Suppose there is Z\ inches to come out
in darts, we take 1^ out of the first one, placing it
about 1^ inches from the breast line, leave 1^ inches
between the two darts, and take out the remainder in
the back dart ; always get the darts to run rather
towards the front at bottom than the reverse. For
this purpose, draw the dotted line as represented in the
centre of the darts, parallel to the breast line, termina-
ting them by letting them meet about 10 inches below
the waist line as shown on diagram. It only remains
now to adjust

The Spring over the Hips,

By measuring up the various parts at the bottom, and
letting them overlap each other, so that 3 inches of
surplus size is left for ease and making up, distributing
the extra amount required about equally at the various
seams. Add on f of an inch for the button-stand on
the hole side, and 1^ on the button side, if it is desired
to fasten the bodice in the ordinary 8.B. style, or ar-
range a lapel after the manner described for the D.B.
Newmarket if it is wished to be D.B., while if it is
desired to fasten with hooks and eyes a seam left
beyond breast line will be all that is needed. Having
arranged the fronts in accordance with the style of
fastening desired the bodice is complete. We will

A Few Hints on Making.

On no account sew the lining and the outside to-
gether at the same time, as the dressmakers do, because
the linings require to be wider and longer in the hollow,
and shorter over the curves, just as the inner edge of a
circle is shorter than the outer edge, so must the out-
side be to the lining. It is the tailor's aim to make
the outside fit ; the lining is merely an accessory ; it is
the dressmaker's aim to make the lining fit. Have
your bone casings put in very long over the waist ; let
them be made from material on the bias ; do not let
them come higher than the top of the darts, or nearer
the bottom than \ an inch ; let the bones be carefully
prepared and firmly secured. In sewing the seams, full
on the round ones a trifle, especially when they are

er=o-

joined to a hollow ; put the collar on loug in the gorge
hollow, and keep the sleeve tight round the back scye.
If wadding or padding is used, see that it is carefully
graded off, as the height of art must always be to con-
ceal art. Put a waist-band at the waist, as it not only
relieves any strain at that part, but it also holds the
garment firm to the figure ; have a hook to fasten the
bodice to the skirt at the back, and so prevent the
underclothing being seen when the wearer bends or
stoops. We shall deal more fully with some of the
special features of making in another chapter.

Ladies' Dress Bodice | Checked Material

No seams allowed. Dias. 22 and 23,

Plate 11. Figure 23.

Many of the students who come to our office to study
the art of cutting ladies' garments, have been in the
habit of allowing all the seams beyond their marks' ;
this plan has many advantages, especially when cutting
checked goods, or if the material is of a very ravelly
nature, and when the usual ^ inch seam would not be
sufficient to stand the ordinary wear and tear. When
cutting checked goods it greatly facilitates the matter
of matching, and as the materials from which ladies'
costumes are now being made have a distinct tendency
to large patterns, we deem it advisable to show the
variations necessary to meet such cases in a work of
this sort.

In garments from such materials, fit has occasionally
to be sacrificed to some extent so that style may be
allowed full scope ; especially is this the case with the
sideseam, where there is no suppression taken out, the
usual inch being equally divided at the two nearest
seams. The reason for this is : if any suppression was
taken out, it would be found impracticable to match
both the vertical and horizonal stripes : hence, in order
that this may be accomplished, the fit is to some small
extent sacrificed ; and the possible defect that would
show itself would be a horizontal fold running from 3|
to ('■;{, which would be more or less as the lady's blades
were prominent or flat. With most ladies this would
not show itself in a very marked degree, as the blades
are generally flat as compared to those of men. Still,
we wish it to be distinctly understood this method is
arranged for a certain object, viz., to allow of check
material being made up with all the cross bars to match
exactly, and not with the view of producing the most
accurate fit. Some of our readers may desire to cut all
their garments out without any seams allowed ; if so,
they may use the ordinary 1 inch suppression from con-
struction line at back, and take out the usual 1 inch sup-
pression between back and sidebody and sidebody and
sidepiece as elsewhere described. With these introduc-

tory or cautionary remarks, we will proceed to deal
with the system applied for making bodices of check
material, or, to be more correct, the adaptation of

The System. Dia. 22. No seams allowed.

And for this purpose we proceed as follows : 0
<sj is the depth of scye as taken on the customer, on to
16 the natural waist, and on to bottom the full length
desired ; 0 to 2\ one-sixth of the natural waist or to
taste, as any variation in this part is adjusted in the
front shoulder ; the width of back neck is fixed by one-
sixth of neck ; from the centre of the back, measure
across the width of back desired ; from 10 come in \\,
and draw the back seam through from it to 1 ^, and
arrange the spring in the usual way. Xow measure
forward from f to 18f the half breast measure, and
from this measure back to 10^, the average between
the across chest and the across bust measures less \ an
inch, and apply the front and over shoulder in the
same way as we have previously described. Some sur-
prise may be felt at this, and thinking it would have
been necessary to deduct a certain amount from the
measure, owing to the seams being added afterwards.
A little reflection, however, would soon show, that
though a seam is usually taken from the shoulder, as at
A, B, yet the scye is deepened the same amount, so that
the depth of scye still retains the same relative position
to the neck and shoulder points. Xo suppression is
taken out between back and sidebody at waist, but an
extra \ inch, making 1^ altogether, is taken out
between sidebody and sidepiece. In other respects the
system is worked in quite the ordinary way, arranging
the seams either in the style illustrated on this Plate or
on Plate 10, and in other details follow the same plan
as previously described, so that it would be unnecessary
repetition for us to go over all the points. We will
only remark that the waist should be made up to 1
inch less than the nett size of the customer's waist
measure, otherwise it will come out too large ; even
then it will do so in some very elastic materials, so that
it will always be advisable to check the waist and make
it up to measure by adjusting it at the under arm seam.

Hints on Making.

The leading feature to be studied in making up is,
that the pattern shall match at all the various parts to
a nicety, it will even be necessary to sacrifice fit to a
certain extent for that purpose. It will, however, be
impossible to get both the horizontal and perpendicular
lines to match at all the scams, and to ran satisfactorily
Avith the front, and as the underarm seam is the one
most out of sight, that would be the seam we should
sacrifice in this way. There are several methods of

getting the patterns to match in the sewing, but one
of the best and surest we have seen, is to turn in the
back just to the mark, and then lay it on the top of
the sidebody, and so get it to exactly match every bar
and cross bar, and when in that position, fell baste it
from the outside, which will then leave a row of straight
stitches on the wrong side, and which will clearly indi-
cate the place where the seam must be sewn. In cutting,
it will he found impracticable to cut the goods on the
double, each part must be carefully adjusted to the parts
adjoining, we have indicated the most effectual lay of the
pattern on the material, cutting through the perpendi-
cular lines at the back seam, but arranging the front to
run with it : the necessity of this latter arrangement
will at once be apparent, when we point out that it is
the only way of getting the pattern to match down the
centre of the front. A reference to figure 23 will fully
illustrate this. It will be observed that the sleeve
is cut without a seam op the hindarm above the elbow,
a feature which very greatly facilitates the matching
process, whilst in order to get the pattern of sleeve and
forepart to harmonise, the pattern at top of forearm
sleeve and the front pitch should be adjusted ; as we
treat of sleeves fully in a separate chapter, we refer our
readers to it for a full explanation of the Sleeve System.

The Norfolk Jacket. Dia. 24. Fig. 24.

This garment, which is little affected by fashion, is
always popular with a very large number of ladies, and
is certainly a most becoming garment for holiday wear
and sporting purposes. It is the ideal garment for
fishing, and is one of the most frequently patronized
styles for pedestrian exercises. It seldom becomes the
rage, while it is always to be seen in wear, hence out-
giving it a place in this work : and more especially so,
because it has many characteristics peculiarly its own.
It matters not whether it is intended for fishing, walk-
ing, cycling or equestrian purposes, it is arranged in
the same way. We will proceed to deal with

Diagram 24,

And explain the special features of cut. We shall not
describe the system in minute detail, as our readers
will readily gather how that is arranged by a reference
to the description of diagram 1 . We will rather devote
our remarks to the variations from diagram 1. In the
first place the quantity allowed (2 inches) for making
up may he excessive, if the material is thin, so that it
may be advisable in such case to reduce the amount
allowed to li inches. In the next place it will be
observed that the sideseam runs into the shoulder seam,
and of course that involves an extra h inch, making 1

j^rz^ter

inch in all beyond the width of back measure taken.
The location of the sideseam is fixed by the position
desired for the pleats ; in the diagram we have retained
our usual method of fixing point 4 at one-third the
distance from ^ to 1 H, but of course this may be varied
to taste, in accordance with

The Arrangement of the Pleats. Dia. 25.

These are strips of material cut double the width
desired, as illustrated on diagram 25, B C and E (r
representing the width of pleat ; and A E, 1) H the
edges turned in ; these edges are then serged together,
and the pleat arranged in such a position as is most
suitable for the wearer. Xow although these pleats are
in reality separate pieces of material, the aim should be
to make them appear as if they were all in one piece
with the bodice, and with that end in view it will be
advisable to keep them as straight as possible, and pre-
ferably the same width throughout, because if they are
curved or made narrower at the waist — as they some-
times are — this idea is at once dispelled. There are
usually three pleats behind, one down the centre scam
of back, and one on either side, the side pleats meeting
others on the forepart at the shoulder seam. The pleat
down each forepart is generally arranged to go over
the dart, and as will be seen, one dart only is taken
out instead of two, this will necessitate its being taken
higher than where there are two. A pleat is generally
placed down the centre of front, and a very good style
of finishing the cuff is illustrated on figure 24, consist-
ing of two pleats somewhat narrower than those on
the bodice placed on the bottom of the cuff. We will
now give a few

Hints on Making,

But as we have dealt with this phase somewhat fully
for the jacket and bodice, we must confine ourselves
to the special features of this jacket. In sewing on
the pleats it will be very necessary to remember more
length will be required over the prominences than for
the waist, indeed, from X to C should be put on full,
more or less so in accordance with the roundness of the
figure, and kept tight in the hollow of waist from C to
E ; this latter is even more important than the former.
The best plan will be to baste these pleats on over the
knee, when due provision may be made for both pro-
minences and hollows. The pleats are sewn to from
the inside. Some firms stitch down the edge of the
pleats as illustrated on figure 24, to make them match
the edges : it doubtless makes them firm, but at the
same time it destroys much of the easy going appear-
ance of which this garment is so characteristic, so that
we leave this for the cutter's individual decision, as it

will be for him to decide whether it is an improvement,
or only time wasted ; we know some tailors contend
that it destroys the idea that the pleats are in one piece
with the bodice, bnt whether this is so or not we will
not stay to consider, bnt pass on to deal with

The Mode of Fastening the Front.

Some make them to fasten with hooks and eyes and
let the front pleat come half over the edge, but the
more general mode is to fasten them with holes and
buttons, arranging the front pleats to quite hide them,
and so forming a kind of fly ; of course there is no
difficulty in doing this when the garment buttons up
to the throat as our figure illustrates, but when a col-
lar and turn is desired, a little judgment will be neces-
sary, the forepart of either side will have to terminate
at the breast line as low as the roll is intended to turn ,
and the pleat made V shape at top, so as to come up
under the lapel ; this will call in the aid of a hook and
eye at the top of the centre pleat, where it goes over
the button side. Sometimes when the jackets are made
with collar and turn the front pleat is omitted. A belt
is generally worn with this garment, and may either
be made from the same material ; or be a fancy belt,
made from leather or any fancy material ; this may
either fasten with holes and buttons when made from
the material, or a fancy buckle may be used. Small
loops are occasionally left at the side through which
the pleat is passed, and we have seen the belt passed
under the pleats at waist, but this is unsatisfactory, as
it not only destroys the sit of the pleats at waist, but
explodes any idea that might have been previously
entertained, that the pleats were in one piece with the
bodice.

Ladies' Riding Habits.
Figs. 25 & 26. Dias. 26 & 27. Plate 14.

The Riding Habit has always been looked upon as a
tailor-made garment, and there seems little doubt it
will long continue to be so, for being made as they
frequently are, from heavy material they are much
better manipulated by the tailor's mode of treatment,
than the dressmaker's. In fashion, they change slowly,
still the careful observer can easily detect the march
of fashion, in both bodice and skirt. A few years ago
the habit bodice was invariably made with skirts sewn
on from the waist downwards ; that has been regarded
as old-fashioned for sonic time now. and at. the present
time the rival styles are, the one cut sharply over the
hips in the style illustrated on figure 25, and the other
continued round about (> or 7 inches below the waist as
illustrated on figure 26. The fashionable section are
wearing scarcely anything else but the style shown on

figure 2<i, and in the future it will doubtless substitute
entirely the older style, figure 25, but as they both con-
tinue to be Avorn, Ave deem it advisable to give diagrams
of both styles, and begin with

Diagram 26.

The system is practically the same as described for
the bodice, the amount allowed for making up being
fixed by judgment. We need not repeat the system in
all its details, but rather treat of the special features of
the habit as distinguished from the bodice. We will
first note the details of the back, and by a reference to
the diagram it will at once be gathered it is cut on the
crease ; this was at one time looked upon as one of the
special features of the habit, but time has changed the
fashion even of this, and it is by no means so universal
as it once Avas. When it is cut on the crease, it is only
made f of an inch Avide at the Avaist, and of course this
involves a re-adjustment of the seams, but Ave will deal
with this presently. In order to give the waist as long
an appearance as possible, the pleats are only com-
menced at H inches below the natural waist, and the
full length continued to 7 or S inches below Avaist. As
will be gathered from the outline of diagram, the skirts
are cut sharply over the hips ; the total Avidth at bot-
tom of skirt Avhen made would be 4 or 4£ inches. It
is arranged with tAvo side pleats at the bottom of side-
seams with buttons placed, as previously noted, 1^
inches below the Avaist seam. The lengths beloAV the
Avaist line are about 2 inches at the side and :i^ in the
front. The bottom edge of sidepiece, &c, should be
slightly rounded, so as to form one continuous curve
when made up and aAToid getting points at the seams.
This is only a trifle, but it is a trifle often overlooked,
the student occasionally drawing a freehand curve from
front to back, in some cases ev^en omitting to re-adjust
the length of the dart seams to each other. We will
now proceed to deal with

The location of the Sideseams.

As these have a very decided effect on the artistic
appearance, it is well to avoid extremes, at the same
time bearing in mind what is considered beauty in the
female form. Present day ideals point to a A-ery flat
back in the region of the blades and a long waist ;
hence with these points in our mind, Ave carry the side-
seam as high as possible, and keep the sideseam flat
but not straight, a kind of deadened curve being best ;
a bare \ inch is taken out between the back and side-
body at the back scye, and the sidebody is lengthened
a little at top to provide in a certain degree for the
shortening tendency of seaming ; 1 inch is taken out
at the Avaist betAveen the back and sidebody, and 1 inch

__ _ -g^jg^g^ik-g.

-w^^w

TO CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

between the sidebody and sidepiece, and 1 inch between
the sidepiece and forepart ; when the remainder neces-
sary to reduce the waist to measure is taken out in darts,
allowing 1^ to 2 inches for seams at the waist. The nar-
rowness of the back at waist necessitates the sideseam
being drawn freehand, and having located it in that
way to measure back from 12 to 11 one inch, and
dividing the distance from 1 1 to 3| into two equal or
nearly equal parts, following the usual plan of making
both sidebody and sidepiece each half an inch nar-
rower at waist-band than on the depth of scye line.
The spring over the hips is not so pronounced as for
ladies' costume bodice, &c, but this is not so noticeable
now as it would have been in the days of more promi-
nent bustles, &c. We will now give a few

Hints on Making.

A waist-band is invariably placed at the waist, and
firmly secured to the seams at the back and side, below
which tabs are placed with either eyes or eyelets in
them, at parts to agree with fastenings placed in the
train ; usually they are placed one at the centre of
back and one on either side at hips, the object of
course being to secure the train. The bottom part of
bodice is faced with the same material as the outside,
about 2 inches deep at front and sides, and continuing
straight across the back skirts ; and in putting the
facing in the back skirts, it should be put in rather
short, so that the tails shall curl inwards. Whalebones
are placed at all the seams (unless the customer objects),
none of which should come higher than the top of
breast darts, or lower than within half an inch of the
bottom ; the bones should be put in as long as possible,
curving the garment to the shape of the figure pre-
viously to fastening them, which should be done at top,
middle, and bottom, the casings being made from sile-
sia on the bias, and care must be exercised in sewing
them to the seams, and full them on over the waist.

If, as is usually the case, it is made to fasten
with holes and buttons, it will be necessary to add
on a button stand as illustrated on diagram, and
for this purpose add ^ an inch on the button
hole side, and 1 inch or more on the button
side ; this allows of the holes coming exactly in the
centre of the figure, and the extra button stand hides
any possibility of the underclothing peeping through
the ends of the holes. It will be advisable to put a V
of silk in the button stand, as shown on the waist line,
which allows it to go nicely to the figure at that part, and
prevents any dragging tendency. The buttons are put
closer together than was formerly done, which we think
is an improvement. If made with stand collar the collar
has hooks and eyes placed at the top to keep it fastened.
We recently had the opportunity of inspecting a Habit

made for a very stylish young lady by the celebrated
firm of Wolmerhausen & Co., it had an interlining over
the back and forepart of horse-hair, which kept it very
firm above where the corsets reached ; it was lined
through with silk, pleats were placed in the forepart
lining opposite the prominence of the bust, and another
vertically, as is now generally done in vests, running
from shoulder downwards, and allowing ample scope
for it to adjust itself, whilst, of course, it was put in
very long at the waist section all round. Needless to
remark, the sleeve linings were flash-baisted to the
seams, both forearm and hindarm, and two or three
small pieces of dommett serged to the scye seams on
the top of the shoulder to facilitate the distribution of
fulness in the sleeve head, and at the same time pro-
duce as good form as possible.

It may be important to give a few particulars with
reference to

The Materials

Mostly used, as this work will most probably be con-
sulted by many young men undertaking the order for a
Riding Habit for the first time. The usual material is
a heavy Melton, more generally black, but by no means
always so, browns, greens, plum colours, &c, all being
largely used. Occasionally we see one of grey Worsted,
and now and then a drab Tweed, but both of these are
the exception, and may for all practical purposes be
ignored, for there can be no doubt Melton is regarded
as the Habit cloth. For Rummer wear Vicunas and
Twill Saxonies are often used ; but these have such a
marked resemblance to the Melton, that Ave might
almost put them in the same class, being only thinner.
The edges are either single or double stitched, and in
the case of the better Meltons the edges are left raw.

The quantity of material required for a Habit Bodice
is about 1^ yards ; the train taking 2^ to 2| ; but we
deal with that in another section.

The New Habit.

Figure 26. Diagram 27. Plate li.

Calling one day on Mr. George Smith, the celebrated
Ladies' Tailor of South Molton Street, we were shown
some fine specimens of Ladies' Tailoring, and amongst
them the new Habit, the details of which, as he pointed
them out to us, we took note of, and have embodied in
the figure and diagram. They were made straight
round the hips, and cut away in the front from just
below the waist, just showing a little of the fancy vest
of hunting pattern, which invariably accompanies this
style. The lapels were somewhat heavy and opened
rather low, above which the vest showed, introducing a
little brightness to the dull colour of the bodice. The

.&£&

:3ZT&&&0-

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

vests were mostly finished in the jockey style of step
stand collar, and were often made from the vesting
worn by the particular limit the lady mostly attended.
It is unnecessary for us to go through the system as all
the details are clearly illustrated in the diagram. The
hack is made rather narrow and the teams adjusted
accordingly, but both this and the general outline can
be easily gathered from diagram 27, and if an explana-
tion of the system is desired, it can be got by referring
to either the jacket or the bodice. Before quitting the
Habits, it will be as well to say a few words on the other

Variations of Style.

Sometimes a lady is to be seen with her Riding
Habit made in the Newmarket style : then another has
the part below the waist arranged as a gent's Dress
Coat ; some others have the same same style as illus-
trated on figure 2(i, but with the corners rounded off :
and in many other countless little details variations
of style are introduced. It is the exception, however,
to see a habit bodice braided, indeed, it is so seldom
that it gives the impression that it is one that has been
laid by for a generation, and has been handed down
from mother to daughter. Possibly in the future,
braiding on Riding Habit Bodices, may be re-intro-
duced but for the present it is obsolete.

TVe must not omit to mention the little girl's Riding
Bodice, seeing that so many are to be seen in the park
of a morning. The almost universal style for girls, be-
tween the age of six and sixteen, is the Norfolk Bodice ;
of this jacket Ave have previously treated in detail in
this section, and as the only special feature to be
noticed for these girls, is the absence of breast and the
comparatively large waist, both of which features would
be clearly brought out by the measures taken, it will be
unnecessary for us to do more than refer our readers to
a few pages back, where the Norfolk Bodice is fully
treated.

Large Size Dress Bodice.
Dia. 28. Plate 15.

It is sometimes argued that we only take the truly
proportionate figure to illustrate the workings of the
various systems we publish, and doubtless this is to a
certain extent true, as we look upon it as highly essen-
tial that the cutter should form an accurate idea of
what is a truly proportionate pattern . But of course
that is not enough ; he must know how to provide for
all ages and all kinds of disproportion, and our object
at present is to help him in his treatment of at least
one phase of this that is often met with.

Turning over the pages of our order book to select
a set of measures by which to draw the diagram to

illustrate this, we come across the following : Xh scye
depth, ir> natural waist, 22 full length, 7 across back,
lH elbow, 2« sleeve, *f across chest, !)£ across bust,
•12^ front shoulder, 1G^ over shoulder, 8^ neck, 18£
nape to nipple, 18^ nape to bottom of waist, 44 chest,
31 waist. The lady was one of those figures which,
though past the prime of life, yet was by no means a
badly made figure, and such as may often be met with
in daily practice. The waist was clearly defined and
the bust well developed ; she might fitly be described
as plump, sh;rt and rather stout. A glimpse at the
measures would soon convince even the inexperienced
cutter, that some more reliable method of fixing the
depth of scye than a division of the breast would
be necessary: 44 breast and 15 natural waist would
not at all meet that method ; yet this is a very fair
example of the measurements found in actual prac-
tice. It is a somewhat remarkable fact that the length
of the natural waist varies very slightly : from 14 to
1(5 seems to embrace the entire range, and often when
the figure gets stouter the waist gets shorter ; hence in
ordinary figures, it will more often be found that the
natural waist measures 14^ than 15^. It will also be
noticed how small all the shoulder measures are in re-
lation to the chest, as compared with the normal :!4 ;
at the same time they are very much more square —
both features usually found in the large size male figure,
but in not so pronounced a degree as is here illustrated.

The Special Features

Of this diagram, apart from the points we have already
noted, and which would be fully allowed for in the
working of the system as previously described, are the
number of darts and the arrangement of the seams of
the sidepieces, &c. The sideseam, as outlined by 4, 2|
and* 8f, is made as long as possible, so as to give
the effect of length : whilst the sidepieces, being
all cut narrow, also greatly facilitate this effect. One
inch is taken out between all the parts at the
waist, and so as to reduce the forepart to the size of
waist without taking out very large darts, a third one
is brought into play, which has a Aery much better
effect : for, while adding length to the general appear-
ance, it facilitates the fit over the hips, and enables a
sufficient receptacle for the bust to be formed very
much easier. It will be noticed that we still retain
the straight front edge ; indeed, we deem it of greater
importance for figures of this class than the normal ;
as any excess of length in the front edge would now
show itself in a sort of frill at that part. It will be
observed that we have added 1 inch to the front shoul-
der measure, instead of | as laid down previously ; our
reason for doing so being to provide for the prominence,
for the more that is added in this way the greater pro-

e^le^e^ysivc..

CS^T^fe^SC-

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS

vision will be made for the busts. The length from
nape to prominence is applied as per dotted line, always
adding 1 inch to the actual length taken on the figure, to
compensate the seams on the shoulder. The same also
applies to the waist line, which in this case drops a lit-
tle in the front, and which drop commences from the
side. We have found great difference to exist in the
run of the waist line ; some ladies are very " embon-
point," whilst others are very flat. With the former
the waist generally runs up, whilst with the latter it
runs down ; hence a measure to exactly locate this will
be found a great assistance. The lower termination
of the darts must of course be arranged in accordance
with the figure, but under any circumstances it will
generally be found preferable to make it rather too
tight than too loose, as the bones, &c, in the front
keep it from riding up round the waist.

Hints on Making.

Few remarks require to be made under this head
after what we said for the normal Dress Bodice, as it
nearly all applies with equal force to either large or
small sizes, with the exception, perhaps, of wadding and
padding, which we left as an open question. But in
figures such as we are dealing with, it should be care-
fully avoided ; indeed, anything which has a tendency
to make the figure — which is already too big — appear
larger, should be avoided ; and although many ladies
of this class of figure make comfort and ease the first
consideration, yet, as a general rule, it will be found
they very much prefer a gaiTnent too small to one too
large.

The stand of the collar should not be made too deep,
neither should there be too much fulness in the sleeve
heads, but we shall deal with the sleeves as we proceed,
taking one of this size as an example. Although we
are showing the working of the system by means of
a Dress Bodice, yet as far as the principles of fit are
concerned, they would be applied in the same manner
to Jackets, Ulsters and Dolmans, the variations in style
being produced by altering the position of the seams,
and increasing in a more or less degree the allowance
for making.

Vests.
Dias. 29 to 34. Figs 27 and 28. Plate 16.

Ladies' Vests have become so popular during the
past few years, that we now regard them as a promi-
nent feature in ladies' attire. Up till recently, however,
they have more generally been imitations or false
vests, fastened to the foreparts or inside of the jacket
or bodice with which they were worn, and as they still

continue to be worn in this style it will be necessary
for us to give instructions on the mode of cutting and
making

Sham Vests. Diagrams 29, 30, 34.

These are extremely simple in their construction.
and as they admit of consi erable variety being intro-
duced into the costume, we doubt not they will long
continue popular. The way to cut them is to take the
patterns of forepart and back of jacket as illustrated on
diagram 30 ; mark round the gorge and front edge,
and mark A B C as wide or narrow as taste may dic-
tate. They are then made up with the usual stand
collar and holes and buttons, and then fastened into
the bodice, either by means of basting, holes and but-
tons, or such mode of securing it as may be preferred.
In this way the lady may have several different vests,
and so introduce considerable variety in her costume.

In diagram 29 the collar and turn is laid on the
forepart in addition to the ordinary stand collar. It is
cut by placing the back and forepart together, and
marking from B to A by the point from where the turn
is intended to start, and round to the centre of the
back neck ; the depth of the collar and the general
outline of the lapel is then arranged to taste. A seam
is left as from A to B, illustrated by dotted line, to <
allow of its being sewn on and turned over. This
style of laid-on collar and lapel at once gives the idea
of a vest, and if the three-corner piece A C B is put in
of different material, this is brought out more promi-
nently. In diagram 34 the forepart is really made up
of two pieces instead of one, the part from A to B for-
wards being made of fancy material, and the seam from
A to B hidden by means of the revers. There are
many other ways in which Sham Vests are adapted to
both Jackets and Costumes, but we need not describe
them in detail, as the same principle applies to them
all, and doubtless our readers will find these remarks
quite sufficient to guide them in their Droduction, so
we will proceed to deal with Vests when made and
worn as separate garments. We will give two styles,
both of which are very popular at present, as illustra-
tions of the style-of Vest dealt with in the diagrams.

The System. Diagram 32.

We have not given any special instructions for
measuring, as the ordinary bodice measures will do
well, with the addition of length to opening and full
length taken from nape.

Commence at top of back, and draw lines W 2^,
W 15| ; from W to «£ is the depth of scye ; continue
to 15rr the natural waist length, and come in 2 inches,
and draw line from W to 2, which finds the back seam
from W to 2\ is one-sixth neck, from which

.^I^Jg^kkS,.-

-■TXTS&GT?V

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

come up | ; sweep from point 1 by half the over shoul-
der measure, and measure from f to 0 S one-fourth
breast measure {i.e., the half breast) plus ^ inch, which
finds the width of shoulder ; now measure from 1 to

0 at bottom of scye, half the breast plus f inch, and
from 2 to i)| the half waist plus ^ inch, and complete
the outline of back as shown. It will be noticed the
bottom part of the back is cut separately ; this is done
with the view of providing sufficient spring over the
hips ; 1 inch is taken out at waist line as shown, and
the sides sprung out as diagram shows. This skirt is
generally cut about 2 inches wide. We now come to

The Forepart. Diagram 33. Figure 28.

Continue the lines 8£, 15^, right across ; square
down from 0, and hollow the side of forepart at waist

1 inch. Xow measure across from 0 to 9f, f inch
more than the half breast measure ; then measure back
from this point to 2\ the across chest measure, less \
inch, measuring back from Of ; now sweep from this
point {2\) by the front shoulder measure, less the
width of back neck, to find point F ; then add f to
this, and sweep again from 9|, and locate the neck point
where these two arcs intersect each other. Xow mea-
sure from 1 to 0 S on the back ; deduct the amount
from the over shoulder measure, and sweep by the
remainder from 2£, but putting the finger on the tape
about lh inches above 2^ ; measure from F to I) one-
fourth breast plus ]- inch. The scye may now be com-
pleted, keeping it very hollow just above 2\. Mark
out from F to X V one-sixth neck, and draw a line
from X V through !)| to find the run of the front.
The waist is now suppressed to size by means of darts,
allowing about 1 inch for the seams; it only no;?
remains to fix the length, which, in the absence of any
measure being taken, should be made about 3| inches
below the line of waist at front, and 2 at the sides, but
if a measure of length has been taken, use it and allow
1 inch for making up. The Vest is now complete if
only intended to hook an 1 eye, but if it is intended to
button, add on a button-stand of £ inch as shown on
diagram 31.

Variations in Style.

These may be produced in the same way as for gents,
and in the case of no collar being sewn on, it will be
necessary to cut at least ^ inch on in the hollow of
gorge, so that it will come as high up the neck as if it
had a collar. We show the two leading styles both by
figures and diagrams, which will be sufficient to illus-
trate both the cutting and the style of the finished

garment. It will be noticed in diagram

which

illustrates the D.B. Vest that the lapel is sewn on ;
tl lis is not absolutely necessary, but is done more with

the view of giving effect, though it will not produce a
better fit ; there is f inch taken out between the fore-
part and lapel, which may be done as a fish, or the
lapel cut off entirely. The outline of the lapel being
entirely a matter of taste, it would not be wise for us
to lay down any fixed quantities, as circumstances alter
the style and outline ; but, as a general rule, they
should be wider at the chest than the waist, but how-
ever it is cut, the buttons must be set as far behind the
breast line as the eye of the hole is in front.

At the present time double-breasted Vests are very
fashionable, some of those in wear beiug made up with
skirts after the style of the Xewmarket Bodice, but this
is perhaps one of fashion's fleeting fancies.

Hints on Making.

As a general rule, ladies' Vests are made in the same
way as gents'. The back is made from Silesia or Silk,
and tapes placed in lieu of buckle and strap to tie it in
if necessary. A watch pocket is generally inserted just
above the prominence of breast, and occasionally
pockets put in at the waist. The foreparts are lined
and faced in the usual way, the same as gents', whilst
the washing materials are made up without any inter-
lining, so as to facilitate the washing, &c. Bones are
seldom used in vests, though we sec no reason why
they should not be used if desired, as vests are really
only slight variations from bodices.

These garments are being largely patronised by
ladies for equestrienne purposes, many of whom are
made from the regular hunt vesting as used by gents,
but there is also a great demand for them for ordinary
wear.

Vest Front for Jacket.

Diagram 31. Figure: The Brighton. Plate 5a.

This is cut the same as the forepart illustrated on dia-
gram 31 and fastened to the side and shoulder seams of
the Jacket they are to be worn with. Care must of course
be taken to see that the sideseam is arranged in har-
mony with that of the Jacket, so that if it is made
more forward or backward, the width of Vest forepart
may also be varied in like manner ; but this can easily
be arranged by placing the breast line of Jacket on the
top of the Vests, and adjusting them together in that
way. We have previously referred to these on page 14,
so that we will not deal with them further than to
point out the opportunity it offers to give effect, by
the introduction of different coloured cloth or some
ornamental design of braiding, whilst at the same time
they allow of a loose-fronted Jacket being worn and kept
close to the waist, &c, without its being apparently
fastened, the vest holding it secure to the back and sides.

Section Four.

Ladies' Ulsters.

Diagram 35, Plate 17. Figure 29, Plate 20.

We will introduce this section with the single-breast-
ed, buttoning-through Ulster, as that probably is the
style more than any other patronised by the fair sex.
This section is undoubtedly one of the most important
in the book, and will probably be referred to more than
any of the others, for there must be few tailors, indeed,
who do not get an occasional order for a Lady's Ulster,
for the ladies have become so thoroughly charmed with
the style in which tailors turn out overgarments in
general, and Ulsters in particular, that even though
they may prefer the flimsy finery of the dressmaker for
their costumes, they come to us for their garments of
this class. In measuring, it is an advantage to get the
full length of side as well as the full length of front
from nape, in addition to the measures we have pre-
viously explained, and which it will not be necessary
fur us to again recapitulate, so will at once proceed to
deal with

The System. Diagram 35.

Draw line 0, 2\ ; 0 C ; 0 to 2| below f is ^ neck ;
from 0 to 2£ on back seam is 4, natural waist ; to 8 the
depth of scye ; to 15^ the natural waist ; to 22\ the
prominence of hip ; and to C the full length, plus
seams : come in from 15^1 iuch, and draw back seam
from 0 to 1, springing it out below through point 22h,
and running through gradually as shown ; curve the
back neck by coming up f above 2\. About 2 inches
below line 2^ measure the width of back, pins two
seams, and curve back scye slightly out to find point 6^,
and then draw shoulder seam from £ through W. Now
measure across from \ to 20^ the half chest measure,
plus 2\ inches for making ; from 20| measure back to
\2\ the across chest measure, or the average between
the across chest and across bust measures ; deduct the
width of back neck 2\ from front shoulder, 12, and by
the remainder, \)\, sweep from \2\ : having done this,
add | inch to this 9$, making loj, and sweep by that
from 2<»i, and wherever these arcs or sweeps intersect
each other, locates the neck point F, and from which
measure across to V ^ neck, and draw breast line from
V through 20£. If, however, the lady is flat at the
stomach, it will be found advisable to come back i inch
at waist, as from * to 21^, and draw the remainder of
breast line from 2\)\ through 2\\. The effect of this
.will be to make the front slightly round at 20^, which

&4L

make 4 7£ half an inch
7 j 8j ; make

round must lie well worked back over the breast in
making up.

Now measure from ^ at s to W, deduct that from
the over shoulder, and by the remainder sweep from
12^ to find point D, putting the finger on the tape 1|
inches up before sweeping as previously described ; get
the width of shoulder by the back, making the front £
inch narrower, and shape the scye as shown, keeping it
as hollow as possible above 12^ and well above 8. The
+ at V may be made a pivot to sweep the gorge from
F to I. We now come to

The Location of the Seams,

And here we apply much the same method as we adopt-
ed with the Jackets, indeed an Ulster is very little dif-
ferent from a long Jacket. Come back from 1 2\ 1
inch, and divide the distance between \ and 11| into
3 parts, equally or nearly so ; make the back from 1 to 3
half what it is from \ to 4^, and shape the sideseam as
shown, continuing below the waist at right angles ;
come in from 3 to 4 1 inch
less than 4^, X ; take out 1 inch between
8\ 11^ half an inch less than 8, 1 1^, and take out 1^
inches ; now measure up the waist, and take out the
surplus in a dart after allowing lh or 2 inches for ^
making up ; the dart should be placed to run parallel
with breast line, running rather towards the front at
the bottom, and at the waist it should be about 2 inches
from the breast line.

The Spring over the Hips.

Measure across from 22\ to 24, and see how that
corresponds with the hip measure, and say 3 inches,
most probably it will be small ; if it is, add on two-
thirds at 6| 8tt, and one-third at 2 3. The mode of
extending the various seams is to draw a line from 3
through 2 for the sidebody ; square down from mid-
way between 1\ and 8 j , and put half the spring to be
located there on either side of H, and then draw a line
straight from 1\ through 6f, and from sj through 8|
on either side. Now, if you have the length of side
and front, use them to get the run of the bottom of
skirt ; if you have not got these measures, measure
down from the waist line at side 1 inch shorter, and at
•front 2 inches shorter than the back. Add on a but-
ton stand all down the front of 1} inches. The finish
of the back varies so much, that it is difficult to say
which is the most popular ; the diagram illustrates the
necessary allowance (1^ inches) for a plain pleat or
opening.

Hints on Making.

A facing is generally put down the front right to
the bottom, but it is not often taken through the shoul-
der : the body lining extends usually to line 2'>\ 24 at
hips, and in putting this in, care must be taken to give
plenty of length over the waist. The buttons down
the front are usually terminated about 24, but tabs and
small buttons are often put to fasten the garment
below. Carefully press any fulness there may be at
the bottom termination of dart well towards the side,
as any excess of room or fulness here is to be carefully
avoided. The sleeve is generally pitched at the side-
seam, and of course the usual care used in putting it
in. If any wadding is used at any part, see that it is
carefully graded away, so that its existence cannot be
detected. The usual precaution of keeping the collar
long in the hollow of gorge must not be forgotten, as
it applies universally. We will not dwell further on
the points to be observed in making, but proceed to
deal with

Diagram 36, Plate 18 ; Figure 30, Plate 20,

Which illustrate a double-breasted Ulster with lapels
sewn on, and foreparts cut across from the bottom of
the back dart ; it is i-eally more with the view of illus-
trating this latter phase than any other, we have drawn
this diagram, for one of the worst difficulties expe-
rienced by all ladies' tailors in these garments, is to
get rid of the superfluous material below the waist in
front, which invariably locates itself if the front edge
has been kept straight, and" proper provision made for the
breast by means of the darts. We know in practice that
suppression at one part causes fulness at another, and
if that suppression is done in the form of a fish, it
throws fulness both above and below, and as the breasts
are usually much more prominent than the stomach, it
follows as a natural consequence that there is too much
material below the waist in front. There are two ways
of avoiding this difficulty. The first is illustrated on
diagram 35, and is the one mostly used in the country,
and consists of coming back from the straight breast line
\ an inch at the waist, and drawing it through to bot-
tom. This method produces a slightly round front edge,
but if the round is only properly drawn in and work-
ed back, and the front edge brought to a straight line,
and the fulness pressed back over the breast, it answers
satisfactorily. The second method is undoubtedly the
best, and is the one mostly used by the ladies' tailors
in the West End, and is illustrated on

Diagram 36.

The body part is got on exactly the same lines as
described for diagram :;."», with the exception that the

*rk^, s^a^^s^

front line is drawn straight through from V to 22h,
and the waist then suppressed to the necessary si/A' by
means of darts. These are terminated about 2\ or 3
inches below the waist line by the foreparts being cut
across in a nearly horizontal direction from the front,
when the surplus material may then be passed away in
the front. It is best to arrange this cut to slant
slightly downwards, as it produces a better effect. The
lengths on either side of the darts must be adjusted to
each other, and this will produce sufficient space for
pointing up the overlap beyond the centre line to meet
and form a continuation of the lapel as illustrated on
diagram. It will be found advisable when cutting
D.B. garments of this class to spring the forepart out
from the waist line downwards a trifle, taking off at
the dart below 21 whatever has been added below 22i,
and in cutting

The Lapel

Use the front edge as the guide for shaping the sewing
to edge, and finish to taste. There is no doubt a good
deal of style may be introduced by means of the lapel,
so it will be well to give it careful attention : it is
the almost invariable rule to make it narrow at the
waist and wide at chest. We illustrate on the diagram
one of the most popular modes of finishing these. Silk
facings are put on the lapels : and, as with gentlemen's
coats, sometimes the binding is put on the top of the
silk, and at others the silk is sewn on the top of the
braid and coming to the top of the lapels. We prefer
to see the facing put over the braid, but there are
many of our best cutters who prefer the other way, so
our readers will be able to take their choice.

In all other respects diagram 36 is produced on the
same lines as described for diagram 85, so that it will
be unnecessary for us to dwell on them here, but at
once proceed to deal with some of the

Varieties of Ladies' Ulsters.

We must first thoroughly understand how to infuse
the principles of fitting the figure : and having done
this, to vary according to the fashion desired. It is
now a generally acknowledged truth that the ladies'
tailor must do something more than fit the body. The
seams must be located with due regard to harmony and
proportion, and, whenever possible, going over the
prominences and hollows of the body ; for then, plain
sewing only is necessary, whereas as soon as the seams
are placed on either side of a prominence, then that
part which goes beyond the prominence must be fulled
on in order to get the receptacle for it in the proper
place, but this we have dealt with in the letterpress
referring to diagram :>.">.

Then we have to consider our customers' tastes and

wishes, for we must remember we are making the gar-
ment for them, and as it must always he our aim to
please them, we should lay ourselves out to understand
what they wish ; and though customers will sometimes
ask for garments quite unsuitable to their form, still, if
they have fully made up their minds, the best course
for us to adopt will be to modify the style in such a
way as to make it as far as possible in harmony with
the figure. It is in this way the tailor with taste and
artistic talent shows his skill, in sending forth his cus-
tomers in becoming garments. When they come to
him with their minds fixed on a certain style, if it is
unsuitable they can modify it by the material and
trimming ; or, if they have decided on material, he can
reduce the unbecoming nature of the pattern by the
infusion of a style having an opposite tendency. The
styles we have selected to illustrate the varieties of
Ladies' Ulsters are

The Loose-fronted D.B.,
Diagram 38. Plate 19 : Figure 31, Plate 20,

And the Cross-over Front. The former is very popular
just at present, and as we pointed out in dealing with
Ladies' Jackets, the front must be straight, that is, the
hi east line, but as the Costume Skirts are worn so close-
fitting at present, and ladies' breasts being invariably
more prominent than their stomachs, we have left a
little curve just at the top from 2(H to V, owing to the
difficulty experienced in avoiding superfluous material
on the stomach (see diagram) ; but, wherever pos-
sible, this round should be drawn in, and the fulness
well pressed back on to the breast. To accomplish
this, it will be advisable to take out a V at the top of
the breast line, and cut the lapel a trifle short. But
when the garment is intended to turn high up, it
will be better to omit the V, the tendency of which is
to shorten the outside edge. As will be noticed, the
fish is omitted from the forepart at waist. But when
it is desired to have the garment very close-fitting at the
sides, a fish is taken out as per dotted lines ; and when
dealing with a figure with prominent breasts, it will
be very advantageous in providing extra room at that
part. We should, however, advise this to be left till
the trying on, as it does not suit all types alike. Then
the one side can be pinned up on the figure, and judg-
ment brought to bear as to which produces the effect
desired in the best way, and arrange accordingly.

The Gross-over Front,
Diagram 39, Plate 19 ; Figure 32, Plate 20,

Is a style which seems more than likely to become a
prominent feature in fashionable Ulsters. When
^ trimmed with fur, as shown on our illustration, it is

very effective. The diagram is self-explanatory in this
case, and shows how the overlapping part is added on ;
and though these garments are generally made close-
fitting, still a moderate looseness at the waist rather
adds to than detracts from their beauty. The under
forepart is generally cut to the breast line only, and a
series of hooks and eyes put down to fasten it at that
part, so that an ornamental clasp or button at the side
will be quite sufficient to fasten it. This will be readily
understood by a reference to the figure and diagram.
We will now direct attention to the

Variations in the Back, Diagram 37,

Necessary for Dolmans and Winged Cloaks. As they
will form the subject of another section, a reference to
diagram 37 will show the plan adopted, viz., continuing
the sideseam right through to the scye point of shoulder
of back, which part is added to the sidebody when
sleeves are worn under the wing, but more frequently
the forepart and sidebody are cut away at the scye,
when all that is necessary will be to make a mark on
the back where the sidebody is to begin, in order to
retain the balance. This, however, is a feature which
more correctly comes within the scope of the section on
Dolmans, though of course that is no reason why, if
customers so desired it, the sideseam should not ter-
minate at the point of, or half way across, the shoulder
seam ; indeed, this feature was very prominently
brought out in the fashions of a few years ago, and
may be revived at any time.

There are doubtless many other variations we might
dwell on in reference to ladies' Ulsters, but we will con-
clude this section by a few remarks on

Newmarket Ulsters

In their various styles of S.B. and D.B., as they are so
very popular at present. These are cut on exactly the
same lines as laid down for Newmarket Jackets, and
which our readers will find fully described in the section
treating of Jackets. All that requires to be done is to
extend the skirt to the length desired. It will always
be well for the cutter to bear in mind that the ladies'
Ulster does not bear the same relation to the ladies'
Jacket, that the Chesterfield does to the Lounge for
gentlemen ; on the contrary, the ladies' Ulster is in
reality nothing more than a very long Jacket, preferably
cut a trifle easier on account of it being often made
from thicker material and being more used in Winter
when thicker underclothing is being worn.

We must now turn our attention to sleeves, as they
play such an important part in Dolman cutting ; and
before we proceed to describe the method of producing
them we must fully explain the sleeve problem.

Section Five.

Sleeves.

Diagrams 40 to 52. Plates 21. 22 and 23.

The sleeve problem has been so often brought before
the trade as an unsolved one, that cutters are well ac-
quainted with the difficulties that present themselves
in its consideration. Further, it is more than likely
the stern realities of daily practice have brought them
experiences other than pleasant, and caused them to
think a good many times over the remedies so much
required. It is generally acknowledge that, to get a
really perfect fitting sleeve, the scye should be located
as nearly as possible at the natural juncture with the
arm and body. This is imperative at the front of scye
and at the bottom of scye : but with the width of back
it is somewhat different, since loss of width to back
can be compensated for in the sleeve ; and when we
consider the decided preference shown for narrow backs
in ladies' garments, the importance of the system being
arranged to provide for this in its ordinary workings
will at once be seen. This, we claim, has been satis-
factorily accomplished in the sleeve system we are now
submitting. We fully illustrate its workings in regard
to this feature towards the end of this section, but
before our readers can consider that, it will be neces-
sary for them to acquire the system in its simplicity,
consequently we begin with

The Jacket Sleeve

System as .illustrated on diagram 41. The first thing
we have to do is to take the cut out pattern of the
body part. (Diagram 4<> illustrates the scye of Dia. 1,
Plate 4). We begin by drawing a line at right angles
to the depth of scye line, and touching the most back-
ward point of the scye at 11 (see dot and dash line) :
then another line is drawn at the front of scye, and the
distance these two lines are apart is the first quantity
taken ; this is applied to diagram 41 by making from
0 to 5i this quantity. We now wish to get the balance
of the sleeve, and to do this we must locate the two
pitches ; the forearm pitch is always placed | of an
inch above the level of the scye as at B ; the hindarm
pitch may be fixed according to taste ; a very good
plan for Jackets and Ulsters is to fix it at the top of
sideseam. The pitches located, we take the square and
let either arm rest on a pitch as at A and B ; now let
the arm at C come forward or backward in accordance
with the style of sleeve desired, always keeping the
square touching these two pitches, when it will be
found the more forward the square is brought, the

greater the distance will be from E to B, and vice versa.
It must always be remembered, in arranging the pitch
of the sleeve, that the forward-hanging sleeve will have
more superfluous cloth at top of hindarm, though it
will give much more freedom than the backward hang-
ing one. Having arranged the square in position,
note the amount from B to E, and apply this to dia-
gram 41 by measuring back from 5| to 1^, and square
across to 8. Now measure the scye from A to 11, and
from 22 to B, straight across — not round — the scye ;
whatever that measures, apply from H to 8 ; from 0
to 4 is half this distance, which in ordinary cases finds
the top of sleeve head ; draw a line from 5^ to 4, and
also draw a line from it to B of diagram 40, and what-
ever the scye is hollowed from this line, as at E, add
on that amount of round to the sleeve at \. The
sleeve head may now be drawn from 5^ to 4 and 8,
when the next operation is to mark off the length to
elbow and full length. Measure the width of back and
apply it to 8, and measure on to elbow, allowing three
seams for making up, and on to full length in the same
way. For an ordinary close-fitting sleeve, hollow the
forearm 2 inches, then measure from 2 to 8 half the
size of sleeve desired, plus two seams ; in the same
manner apply the width of cuff. Get the angle of cuff
by squaring across from hindarm, taking the angle
from elbow downwards as the guide. Draw the fore-
arm straight from 5^ to 2, and from 2 to C, and on no
account hollow it between as an examination of the
arm will at once show it to be round between elbow
and wrist, and to cut a hollow to fit it is quite a mis-
take. Tone down the angle at 2, and the topside
sleeve is complete.

To get the under sleeve, measure round the bottom
of scye from A to B, ami apply from 5^ in the direc-
tion indicated by 7 : sweep from the elbow at 8 to get
the length of hindarm, and finish as per diagram. The
amount of hollow required at £ is got by squaring
across from the forearm pitch at right angles from the
square when placed to find the balance as illustrated on
diagram 4o ; and provided the scye is not made too
deep for the figure, the amount of hollow may be
gauged by the distance between the square line and
bottom of scye.

The Ulster sleeve is practically the same as the
Jacket sleeve, though it may he preferrable to give it a
trifle extra width at the elbow and cuff ; but as this
is a feature always governed by individual taste, it is
impossible to lay down any definite guide in this par-
ticular, except actual measurement which plan the cut-
ter should always adopt in all cases of doubt. The
quantities marked on the diagram being the usual sizes
for material of ordinary thickness.

'i^-g

.fJL&X&i*?,.

Ladies' Bodice Sleeve. Dia 43. Plate 21.

If our readers have thoroughly grasped the principles
involved in the Sleeve System, they will soon recognise
they are identical with those employed to cut the hodice
sleeve. The width across the scye is used to find the
distance from 0, 6 : the sleeve pitches are located —
the forearm | of an inch up from bottom, and the
hindarm, in this instance, at the second sideseam,
which may of course be varied ; hut this mode is most
in accordance with the views of ladies at present,
the topside sleeve being made much wider than half,
and consequently it will be noticed a great difference
exists in the quantity < n the square when taking the
balance of the sleeve : the first amount for this sleeve
is <'., the second is 2^, and this of course makes the
sleeve head very round, in locating point 5, make it
rather less than half 3^, 10* ; proceed with the elbow
as before described, measuring from 2 to 7i* half the
size the elbow is desired, plus two seams ; then come
out from 7^ to 8^ 1 inch", or as much as it is desired
the topside sleeve shall be wider, when of course a simi-
lar quantity is taken off the under sleeve, as from 7^
to t'.i. Point 7i should be used as the pivot to sweep
§ from 10^ to get the top of hindarm of undersleeve.

Puffed Sleeve Heads, Dia. 43, Plate 21.

Are su very popular at present, that no description of a
system for sleeves would be complete without an expla-
nation of the mode of producing them. First sweep by
the elbow at *h from 10^ in the direction indicated by
dotted lines 1^, and go out from 10t three times, or
very nearly three times, the amount of puff desired,
and add on an equal amount of round to the top above
5, thus : suppose an extra | inch of round is desired
to the sleeve head, addon 1| inches as indicated by
the dot and dash line. Some may consider this an
excessive allowance, but when they remember the puff
must be provided for on both sides, that is, up and
down, they will at once see that twice is the least pos-
sible quantity, and to this must be added an allowance
for the hollowing tendency of fulling in the sleeve
head ; for whenever a part is fulled on or drawn in,
the round is apparently much reduced.

Sleeves for a large size Dress Bodice.

Diagrams 44 and 45. Plate 22.

In order to fully illustrate this, we have taken the
scye of dia. 2s, and applied the system m exactly the
same way, with the result of diagram 15. But here
we should use a little; judgment, for we know ladies of
this class are usually very square shouldered and short
Kicked, so that it would be our duty to keep the ful-
ness of sleeve head as little as possible, in order to pre-

.9^r<

vent anything that would in the slightest degree raise
the shoulders ; so we should take off | or 1 inch of
round from the top of the sleeve head as illustrated by
the dot and dash lines : this would enable the sleeve
to be put in almost plain, and would be quite satisfac-
tory, as the bones of the shoulder of this class of figure
do not show any prominence at this part, the surround-
ing flesh mJung shoulders comparatively flat.

Diagram 23, Plate 11, illustrates a sleeve suitable for
check material. It is produced in the same way as
diagram 4:>, with the top and undersides grown to-
gether to elbow, a fish being taken out under the arm
to make it shapely at back. We will now give a few

Hints on Making.

If there are buttons and holes at either fore or hind-
arm seams, a button-stand must be left on that side
the buttons are intended to go on. In putting the
linings in, always keep them rather long than short, and
always flash baste them over the seams, in the case of
the Dress Bodice Sleeve, the extra length in the hind-
arm of topsides must be put on at the elbow in fulness.
In patting the sleeve into the scye, keep it close round
the back scye as from A to C, dia. 42, keep it fair round
the bottom from A to W, and begin the fulness a little
below D, and terminate it well above the forearm pitch.

If there is a moderate amount of fulness to go in the
sleeve head, it may be drawn in with a running thread
and pressed away before the sleeve is put in, but if
there is more than can be successfully arranged in this
way, put it in in little pleats, and if the sleeve be de-
sired to appear puffed, do not open the seam at sleeve
head, which would press it flat, and so destroy the end
in view : a judicious use of canvas or horsehair, or
even a little roll of (doth or wadding, will be a great
assistance to produce a good puffed sleeve head.

The Sleeve Problem.
Diagrams 46 and 47. Plate 22.

The problem which has puzzled the profession during
the past fifty years, more than any other, is simply
this : how to compensate in the sleeve for variations in
the width of the back : and though in practice the
difficulty has been invariably surmounted, yet when the
various processes have been tested theoretically, they
have all been more or less deficient in meeting the self-
evident needs ; and the measure of success their authors
have achieved has doubtless been largely due to the
elasticity of the material and the judicious manipula-
tion that the workmen have put into the garment.

Let us take a glance at diagram 4(J, and see the
varying widths of back marked s, '.), 10. These repre-
sent backs of an inch difference in the width — !) is the
normal, 8 the wide, and in the narrow. Xow it is

-^^rajfer^-

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

evident, that when the arm rests at the side, this
variation is one of width or circumference from centre
of hack to centre of chest, as well as length from the
goip' over the shoulder to the wrist, for a wide or nar-
row back, invariably means a Avide or narrow shoulder :
but when the arm is raised as it is when the customer
is being measured for the length of sleeve, what was
circumference becomes at once length : hence whatever
is lost to the back must be compensated for in both
length and width, and this the system of itself works
out admirably, forming the sleeve for the wide back
flat, and the one for the narrow back with a lot of ful-
ness ; this is a necessity in tailoring wherever applied,
if the seam does not go exactly over the prominence it
is desired to provide for, hence the various modes of
manipulation needed to suit different styles of cutting.
It is, of course, too much to expect that garments cut
with extremely wide or narrow backs can have sleeA es
made to tit as nicely as those cut a natural width ; the
prominence of the shoulder must be provided for',
necessitating in. the case of narrow backs a much larger
amount of fulness ; whilst, if the back and shoulders
were excessively wide, the sleeve would need to go in
plain or even positively tight.

Diagram 47. Plate 22

Illustrates the three styles of sleeve heads, and it will
be readily seen that as the back is made an inch wider
or narrower, the distance across the scye would be that
much more or less. This is evidenced as from 0 to
4^, 5|, (>^, and producing the amount necessary to fill
up the round of the shoulder, and as the scye increases
in size as the back is made narrower, and vice versa, so
the measure from back pitch to front is made to vary 1
inch for every inch of difference in the back ; the pitch
of the sleeve being kept on a horizontal line makes a
difference of a \ inch whenever the back is varied, as in
the present case ; hence 0, 4, \\, 4^. The topside is
naturally the part that is the most affected by varia-
tions in the back, but the underpart also needs some
changes, necessitating the use of judgment in the sleeve
balance as found by the square, in the working of the
system, which naturally produces a slightly larger
under sleeve for the narrow back. The variations to
be introduced by the aid of judgment are shown on

Diagram 48,

And consists of not hollowing it out 80 much for the
narrow back. The dotted line shows the changes to
make for the narrow back, the dot and dash line illus-
trates the normal, and the solid line the wide back.
These variations are necessary to allow the arm being
brought forward or raised, for it must always be re-

membered the arm is the freest of all the members of
the body, moving backwards, forwards, up and down,
in a manner which defies the adjustability of the most
elastic materials : consequently we have occasionally to
err on the side of a little too much material, to permit
these movements in garments held closely to the waist,
otherwise a grand split would be the result, especially
if the scye happened to be a trifle too deep. This is
very important in Riding Habits, as the lady invariably
lifts her arms well up in the act of mounting, hence a
too deep scye and an under sleeve too much hollowed
is to be specially avoided. Some ladies, however, are
content if their jackets fit nice and clean at the back
scye and do not require to raise their arms, trusting to
the elasticity of the material for those occasions when
this is necessary. For such, the under sleeve should be
well hollowed and made slightly shorter and strained
up to the hindarm of top sleeve when making.

Variations in Style.

The fancy style of sleeve head, which, during the
past year or two, has been received with so much
favour, has made the sleeve problem easier. The
slashed sleeve head, the pleated topside, those arranged
with sleeve capes, as well as the high puffed sleeves, all
have the same result, though the extreme to which
they are carried clearly indicate that the original pur-
pose of merely providing sufficient room for the shoulder
has been lost sight of, and fashion has been allowed to
hold the reins of fancy.

Variations in the width of the elbow should be made
equally at fore and hindarms, though the preference
should be given to the hindarm, to make the larger
share of the increase, and the forearm to decrease.
Variations in the width of cuff should be made one-
third at forearm and two-thirds at hindarm.

The New Sleevelet. Diagram 52.

A fashion has been introduced during the past few
seasons of putting a loose sleeve on the top of the ordi-
nary sleeve, forming a kind of sleeve cape. The cutting
of this is very simple, but it may be well to give it a place
in this work. A reference to diagram 52 will show how
to cut it : all that is necessary is to put the top and
underside sleeve together at hindarm, and either ar-
range the elbow to touch, as in the present case, or if
any amount of drapery is desired at the back, to arrange
it open at elbow accordingly. The outline may be
completed by drawing the forearm straight down from
forearm to cuff, or cut as illustrated ; the shape at the
bottom is also a matter of taste. This diagram ex-
plains itself, so we will not dwell on it further than to
note that in addition to illustrating how to cut the new_

■^§^W"

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS

sleevelet, it a'so illustrates bow ;i loose blouse sleeve
may be cut without hindarm seam, the width at the
bottom being gathered in to a baud. There is another
style of sleevelet, which so very closely resembles this
that we have illustrated it on the same page, although
it partakes very largely of the cape style.

The Cape Sleevelet. Diagram 50.

This is a combination of forepart and sleeve, and
partakes very much of the Dolman Cape. It is cut by
taking an ordinary forepart and laying the sleeve down
on the forepart pitch, so that it overlaps from A to B
1 inch, letting point F come in the natural hanging
position of sleeve, but this may be varied if it is desired
to have drapery at the side for ease. &c, then F may
be brought nearer to G. Having arranged this, lay
the undersleeve down as per dotted lines, and arrange
D E H to taste. This style of sleevelet is worn on both
Ulsters and Jackets, and has this advantage, that in
the front it looks like a caped garment, whilst behind
it looks very much like an ordinary sleeve. In making,
they are sewn in with the gorge, shoulder, and scye,
and as a general rule are left quite loose below the scye,
though occasionally they are fastened at the side. We
will now conclude this section on sleeves by giving the
remedy for some of the priucipal

Defects in the Fitting of Sleeves.

This will put our readers in possession of the lead-
ing principles, for a very" important lesson is to be
learnt from a defect, if it is only thoroughly studied
and the principle mastered ; for in cutting, however,
perfect a system may be. it is necessary for those who
use it successfully to fully grasp the principles involved
— for the system is. after all, only the tool which needs
the hand, the eye and the heart to direct and use it to
meet all cases satisfactorily.

Greases across the top of forearm.

Diagram 51.

These very unsightly creases are generally the result
of an insufficient depth between the top of hindarm to
the top of forearm, or to use another term, incorrect
balance : the same might be effected by taking a good
fitting sleeve, cutting the hindarm across and taking
out a wedge. It is most apparent when the arm is
brought forward, as in the act of writing and almost
entirely vanishes when the hands are clasped behind.
This defect is bound to exist in a more or less degree
in every sleeve, but we should always aim at reducing
it to a minimum. If it should be found to exist to a
degree which is not only unsightly but uncomfortable.

the easiest way to alter is to lower the forearm as from
G to H, diagram 51, which practically amounts to the
same as if a wedge had been inserted to the hindarm
seam to nothing at G : though in one case the forearm
is shortened, and in the other the hindarm is lengthen-
ed, the relation existing between the two seams is iden-
tical in both cases, the length being easily adjusted if a
turn up has been left at the bottom of cuff. The oppo-
site defect to this is a dragging from forearm to elbow,
diagram 51. In this defect a most uncomfortable pres-
sure is felt when the arms rest at the sides, but plenty
of ease exists for the arm being brought forward ; there
is a lot of fulness and foul material at the top of hind-
arm, and a general tendency for the cuff to stand away
from the hand. This latter effect is also produced by
a different cause — viz., the forearm cut too hollow
between elbow and hand (as shown from F to V, dia-
gram 4!i), the dotted line showing the remedy. It
should always be borne in mind that the sleeve between
the elbow and cuff at forearm should be cut straight,
as illustrated by the solid line between F and V. To
return to our defect, just as the creases across the fore-
arm are cured by lowering the forearm, this would be
remedied by raising it, but as this is not practicable in
the made up garment, we give what we term a negative
alteration— viz., lower the hindarm as shown by dotted
lines P to 0, diagram 51, the lowering of the hindarm
having practically the same effect as raising the fore-
arm, with the exception of the length of sleeve, which
may be adjusted at cuff, as previously explained.

Creases in forearm and elbow.

Ladies frequently wear very tight-fitting sleeves,
and if these are cut too straight, there is not sufficient
length at the elbow" for the arm to bend, which either
results in a split at the elbow or a quantity of super-
fluous length forming in folds at the bend of the arm.
To remedy this in the made up garment is somewhat
difficult, in fact, if there is no inlay in the forearm it
cannot be treated properly, though it may be relieved
by lowering the forearm in a slight degree, as shown
from G to H, diagram 51. In cutting new sleeves,
cut your pattern across from J to I, and insert a wedge
to nothing at I, which will make sleeve more bent, as
illustrated by dotted lines, K coming to M, and L to N

Loose and superfluous material at top
of Hindarm. Diagram 49.

This, too, is necessary to a certain extent, in order
to allow sufficient play in the sleeve for the arm coming
forward. Ladies, however, do not require so much in
this way as men, they prefer elegance to ease ; and in

iSia.

..P^gagjSLuE, -

~"3^T

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

order to avoid this foul material at back of the arm, it
will be necessary to clear out the undersleeve as shown
by dotted lines W, whilst a little may be taken off the top
of the hindarm of undersleeve and stretched up. In
all these defects the (juantity or extent of the alteration
must be decided by the degree to which the defect
appears. There are many other defects to which
sleeves are liable, but those touched upon are perhaps
the most important ones.

Section Six.

Dolmans and Cloaks.

To the inexperienced Ladies1 Cutter, Dolman Capes,
and the like garments, are probably a greater source of
anxiety than any other styles ; and yet, if the princi-
ples on which they are cut are but once grasped, they
are as easy to cut as the simplest garment worn. We
rind young men can better grasp these by cutting one
out, baisting it together, and trying it on a figure of
the same breast measure as the pattern is cut for. We
seldom cut them out by system, that is, by drawing-
lines and angles, for they are generally worn as part of
a garment, and as such must necessarily be made to
harmonize with the parts it has to be worn with : hence
we iu variably use the parts of the pattern they will be
worn in connection with, such as the forepart, sidebody,
and sleeve to draft them out by. This will be best
understood by following the arrangement we will de-
scribe.

The body part of these may be cut exactly the same
as the Ulster, with one exception, viz., the sideseam
running into the scye point of shoulder, instead of
about 2 inches below ; the scye may be made close fit-
ting, and sleeves added in the usual way if so desired.

The Body Part. Dia. 53, Plate 24.

The more general plan of cutting the body part is
illustrated by diagram 53, the dotted lines representing
the ordinary Ulster as described in a preceding section.
The scye is lower from C G and I, and the back carried
to shoulder point. (The sleeve pitches at B and C
should be carefully marked as a guide for the wing in
making), but a reference to diagram 53 will make this
perfectly plain, without further detailed instruction
from us. The only further remark we need make is
with reference to the shoulder. If the wing or cape is
made to come over the shoulder as in the Russian
Cloak, the shoulder of the under part may be consider-
ably narrowed, say to 2 inches at P, but of course this
must not be done with such garments as •■ire illustrated

on figures :):; and 36, where the Dolman wing takes
more the form of the sleeve. Sometimes in very thick
materials, or for the sake of economy, the sidebody is
not extended right through, being merely made about
4 inches dee]) at the waist, the forepart being also
arranged in harmony ; but our readers will readily
understand that, though it is not indicated on the dia-
gram. We will now proceed to deal with the various
styles of Dolman, and begin with

The Duchess Dolman,

Diagram 54, Plate 24. Figure 33, Plate 25.

This is a style which has taken well with the better
class of society, the only objection to it being the diffi-
culty in lifting the arms, but this is a defect apparent
in many — we may say most — styles of Dolmans. In
appearance it bears a certain resemblance to the
Russian Circular Cloak, with this great difference,
the wing is finished at a level with the waist, instead of
extending right through to the shoulder ; but this will
be best understood by a reference to figure 33, which,
brings out the special features very clearly, so we will
turn our attention to the cutting, and as we have fully
described the body part, we will proceed with

The Wing. Diagram 54. Plate 24.

First take the sidebody and sleeve, and lay them
down as shown by the dotted lines of diagram 54, the
hindarm of sleeve and top of sidebody joining as at A.
then notice there is at least ?> inches space at L, and
mark round from C to B, B being as far from A ae A
is from B in diagram 53. Now continue from B to I,
and J, by the back of the sidebody, though it is
just as well to fill it in at I h inch, so avoiding the
decided hollow at I ; continue across to K as far as
taste may dictate, now put the finger on the sleeve at
C, and swing round the sleeve till it is level with the
waist, making C the pivot, and marking C to F by the
forearm of sleeve, and connecting F to K as shown.
In order to avoid getting the seam just on the top,
some cutters add on about 2 inches from C to D, and
take the same amount off the undersleeve which is out-
lined by E G H F, and is cut by the scye of diagram
53 from E to (i, and the remainder by taste.

The Russian Circular Cloak.
Diagram 55, Plate 26. Figure 34, Plate 25.

The popularity of these garments during the past
few years has raised them to a position of importance
in Ladies' Garments, and as they combine both warmth
ami comfort, it is more than likely they will continue

popular for .some time to come, hence we regard them as
one of the most important of the various styles of Dol-
mans we shall deal with. They embody almost all the
principles of cutting for all the various styles, but this
will be easily understood as we proceed. The body part
would he cut as diagram 53, as we have previously
noted, so that all that is necessary is to describe the
wing or outer forepart.

Lay the cut-out forepart and sidebody in the position
shown on diagram 55 — touching each other at bottom
L, and with a space of not less than 3 inches at A ;
and in laying them together in this way, notice that
the balance is not disturbed, or, in other words, see
that the sidebody is not passed up or down. Now take
the sleeve. Having arranged the sleeve head in the
style it is desired the sleeve head of wing shall be, that
is, plain or puffei, lay it with the forearm overlapping
the forearm pitch about 1 inch as at K, and then bring
the hindarm to the back pitch W, and the outline
of wing may then he drawn, starting from B to V to
F and 1) by the forepart, from 1) to W by the sleeve,
but adding on whatever amount was lost to the back at
the hindarm pitch, in continuing it up to the shoulder
seam ; now come down from W to G, and it will be
found preferable to fill up the hollow above G a trifle,
say a \ inch ; then continue on to E and across the
bottom from L to C. The forepart may be completed
from C to B to taste, the dotted outline representing
the meeting edge to edge line, cutting it away more or
less from the front of forepart as fancy or customer's
wishes may dictate, but it is well to remember there is
a tendency for them to appear more cut away than they
really are, owing to the movements of the arms.

Hints on Making Russian Cloaks.

The one great feature in these garments is to get
them to fit nicely over the shoulders, with sufficient
room, and yet to tit snug in at the hollow of waist.
To secure this, the ha'anee must he carefully preserved,
sewing point W to the hindarm pitch of back, and care-
fully distributing any fulness there may be from W to
I> in the same way as for a sleeve : the shoulder and
gorge F, V, B are sewn to the back and collar at the
same time as the forepart, and in like manner the side-
seam from |W to E is sewn to the back with the
sidebody. Tabs should be placed about 14 or 15
inches up from C, by which to secure the wing to the
forepart, or otherwise, in boisterous weather, these have
a very " fly-away " tendency. As we have previously
stilted, the under or body part is usually the same as
an Ulster with sleeves, or with the armholes cut away
to the waist, but sometimes a strip is cut off the fore-
part, as from V to M, diagram .">.">, and this is secured

ijys.

-&ZL

to the wing, an opening being left about I for the
hands to come through, but this is only one of

The Variations of Style

That may be introduced. The dot and dash line G H I
shows another style which has found much favour,
especially with ladies who objected to the weight of
the Russian Cloak, whilst it also has a fanciful appear-
ance which readily lends itself to various styles of
ornamentation. Diagram 56 is really only another
adaptation of the same gamient or part of garment,
and, as will be seen, it illustrates the old Sling Dolman
Cape so very popular a few seasons ago. As far as the
principles of cut are concerned, they are identical with
what we have described for diagram 55 ; the main
point of difference lies in their being cut short, termi-
nating about 2 or 3 inches below the natural waist,
and then an extra 2 or 3 inches are left to turn up
round the bottom, to meet the sling outlined by V, B,
C, E, and which may be varied to taste. The wing
of the

Ladies' Inverness,

Diagram 56, Plate 26 ; Figure 35, Plate 25,

Is identical with this, but minus the sling, though it is
often customary to cut them longer in front : but of
course this is a matter easily adjusted to the customer's
views. If a looser style of Cape is desired, open the
forepart and sidebody at J, making A, as it were, a
pivot : or, better still, the top of sidebody W, when
more drapery will fall at the side : but these are
merely side issues, which will soon suggest themselves
to the cutter when once the principles of cut, as here
laid down, are mastered. We will just mention one
more : High puffed sleeve heads give more round
between W and D, and more width at W in just the
same way the alteration would be made for sleeves.
These hints will, we trust, prove sufficient for the cut-
ter to produce any style of Dolman Cape, so we will
proceed to deal with

The Princess Dolman Sleeve.
Diagram 57, Plate 26 ; Figure 36, Plate 25.

The same principle is applied here, only the forepart
is omitted. Take the sidebody and sleeve and lay
them together as shown at W and E with a space at E
of not less than 3 inches, making this more when more
freedom for the movements of the arms is desired ;
follow the sleeve head from D to W, adding on at W
what was lost to the back as previously described for
diagram 55 ; continue down from W to F and (i, by
the sidebody, filling it up \ an inch at F. Now put
the finger. od the forearm pitch D, and swing the sleeve

-=-

round as per dot and dash line, to a level of the waist,
and continue the run of sleeve head from I) to V ; the
width of sleeve hand is a matter of taste, and the run
of the underside sleeve from D to E is arranged to
agree with the scye of forepart and the bottom from A
to C cut as much short as the topside is cut too long.
If it is desired to carry the forearm seam out of sight
at D, see instruction for diagram 54. These have a
very stylish appearance when in the garment, but the
one great drawback is the inability to raise the arm,
the sleeve being secured to the sideseam.

A Sleeve Wing. Diagram 58.

The variety of ways in which this combination of
parts can be applied is unlimited ; diagram 58 illus-
trates the sleeve and sidebody only, grown together ;
and the same instructions we have given for the other
diagrams will apply to this. Put the sidebody to the
hindarm pitch of sleeve ; arrange the amount of
drapery between hindarm of sleeve and front of side-
body, usually about 3 inches : adjust the length to
customer's ideas, and the cutting is complete. In
making, it is sewn in with the sideseam and sleeve
head from F I) to W.

Diagram 59

Illustrates still another style, this has the back and
sleeve grown together, and has a very stylish appear-
ance when on. To cut this, put the hind arm of sleeve
to the hindarm pitch, arrange the space from B to C
by about 3 inches more than the width of the sidebody ;
more or less in accordance with the amount of drapery
desired. In making, this is sewn in with the sleeve
head, the shoulder seams and back neck ; the back
seam being preferably sewn separate, as it would give
it a freer appearance.

Doubtless there are many other styles of Dolman
sleeves, capes and wings, but the cutter who has the
least inventive genius will readily be able to produce
any design he sees, if he once grasps and puts into
practice the principles we have laid down, one of the
most important of which is, that what is lost at one
part is made up on another by a sort of give and take
arrangement, whilst another important feature is to
retain the balance.

Dolmans and Cloaks are so very closely allied, that
it is sometimes difficult to tell to which style a particu-
lar garment may belong ; so we deal with them both
in this section, and now proceed to treat of

Cloaks.

One of the most popular garments of this season will
the Yoked Cape, illustrated on Diagrams 60 and 61,

Plate 21. Figure :J>7, Plate 2*. In cutting these, it is
far more a question of the infusion of style and ease
than fit, consequently a reliable Block Pattern forms
the best hasis of operation.

Diagram 60

Shows how the yoke is cut : the back and forepart are
placed with the shoulder seams together, and when in
that position mark those parts outlined by W, 0, 1, 2,
V, comprising the back, gorge, and front : and now
comes the part where all the taste may be displaye \
for certainly the outline of the bottom part and the
length allows ample scope for the designer's skill.
Some make them very pointed and to reach down to
the waist, as illustrated on figure 37 : others keep them
short and round both back and front, whilst others
give extra length to the front, consequently we cannot
lay down any definite rule in this direction. In the
style illustrated on diagram 60, the yoke is made point-
ed back and front, starting at the depth of scye on the
back at W to shoulder point D of back, and then from
the corresponding point of front shoulder to the depth
of scye line of forepart V. These are generally cut
without a shoulder seam, but if any improvement
can be made in the run of the pattern or for any other
purpose, we see no reason why a shoulder seam should
not be introduced. These yokes are very frequently
made either of velvet or else ornamented very richly
with braid, and there can be no doubt they make a
very stylish feature in these garments, which combine a
taking style with all the comforts of the more " grand-
motherly " sort.

The Bodypart, Diagram 61,

Is merely a straight piece of material with the top part
rounded so as to adjust it to the yokes. The width
from W to V depends to a large extent on the substance
of the material : to infuse the same appearance of ful-
ness in a garment made of thin material, these must
be cut much wider than would be necessary for a cloth
for which we should advise W to V to be about 36 to
40 inches. The same width is generally retained to
the bottom, though in the event of a very thick ma-
terial being used, it would be as well to slope both back
and front a little, in which case the distance from W
to V may be considerably reduced.

The adjustment of length, diagram 61, is often a
puzzling detail in these garments, but it is really a very
simple matter. Draw line W V, and place the back on
this line with the depth of scye line resting on it ; then
take the forepart and repeat the same operation. Now
draw a line from the two shoulder points D and F, and
at * (which is midway between D and F) make the top

-<**i^g^^>r

of the round ; but if a large amount of puff is desired
to the shoulder, extra round must be added above * ;
the full length may then be adjusted by measuring
down from top of back in the usual way allowing for
seams where consumed. It will, of course, be under-
stood our diagram does not extend to the full length.

Most of our readers will doubtless understand the
details of making these garments— that the bodypart is
fulled on to the yoke all the way round, the back
gathered in very much at the waist and tied in with a
waist-band usually made of ribbon, and that the yokes
are usually the only part lined, except where the front
edge is faced with silk.

The Circular Cloak.

Figure 38. Plate 28,

Now claims our attention. It is a garment largely
used by nurses, elderly ladies and others, and from the
demand for patterns of this kind coming at regular
intervals, we are disposed to regard it as a garment that
is never out of fashion ; and it will doubtless be in the
recollection of many of our readers, that some four or
five years ago they were one of the most popular of
ladies' overgarments, indeed, the Russian Circular
Cloak is only an adaptation of this garment. There
are many degrees of fulness to which these may be cut,
but the style we illustrate on our diagram is as close as
we should ever advise, and from this it will be easy to
deviate in the matter of extra room.

Diagram 62. Plate 27,

Shows how the back is cut. Take the block pattern of
the back and sidebody of an Ulster, letting them just
touch at the top of sideseam K, and the bottom L.
The back seam and neck may be drawn exactly the
same as the back, but in order to get the seam to come
on the top of the shoulder, it will be advisable to come
up from A to D about 1 inch ; C to E is from 2 to 3
inches, and draw sideseam by W D E F ; mark off
the length to agree with the customer's measures, and
arrange the finish of the pleats in accordance with the
^ady's own ideas, and the back is complete.

The Forepart. Diagram 63, Plate 27,

Is produced on similar lines : what was added to the
back from A to I) is taken off from B to F, whilst
another 1 inch is added to the sideseam at H, thus
making an excess of 3 to 4- inches beyond the Ulster
size in the body, that being the minimum amount
necessary in a garment to be worn over the arms ; the
difference between the measure of chest and over arms
and chest being from 0 to H inches ; the sideseam may

then be drawn from Y P, G to F. If it is desired to
fasten down the fronts with holes and buttons, the
usual button stand must be left on, but when, as is
often the case, these garments are lined with fur, they
are made to hook and eye. Sleevelets are often placed
on the foreparts in something of the style shown, the
seam from I to J being generally hidden by some mode
of ornamentation. If fur lining is required for this, a
pattern of the garment is sent to the furriers, who will
send you the fur all made up to size, just ready for the
outside, so that the making of a srarment of this class
is a very simple matter. The same principle employed
here will also produce a very pretty shoulder cape, if
cut off about 14 or 15 inches from neck, but this will
doubtless suggest itself.

"We will now proceed with illustrations of Summer
Dolmans, one or two styles of which seem to always re-
tain their popularity — the Florence and the Princess.
We will deal first with

The Florence Dolman,
Fig. 40, Plate 28 ; Dia. 64, Plate 29.

This illustrates the body part of a Summer Dolman
cut from a Jacket pattern, it being much easier to cut
all kinds of Dolmans from a model pattern than to
work them out by system. It will be noticed the back
has been reduced from D to "W, so making one con-
tinuous run from waist to shoulder. The scye of the
forepart has been lowered from F to G, and the bottom
lengthened and made pointed ; but of course this is a
matter of taste, though this is the more general way.
The sidebodies are cut short, as illustrated on diagram,
care being taken to put a corresponding mark on back
and sidebody in order to retain the balance. The side-
bodies, however, are often omitted altogether, when the
forepart would be cut as per dot and dash line, from N"
to M and F. This answers well for such styles as the
Florence, but for the Princess and similar garments it
is better cut as per the solid outline. These garments
are generally arranged to meet edge and edge in the
front. The diagram shows a blind added for hooks
and eyes, but of course this can be varied if desired by
adding on a button-stand in the ordinary way beyond
the breast line.

The Florence Wing. Diagram 65.

This is got on very similar lines to what we have
previously described. Take the sidebody and sleeves
and lay them together at the hind arm pitch, the hind-
arm of sleeve going to the hindann pitch on sidebody.
Arrange the space at Q in accordance with the desired
amount of ease ; a good medium ouantity is about
3 or 4 inches, then mark round from F to W, addingr

on at W what the back lias been narrowed (see W D,
diagram 53). Then continue from W to bottom of
sidebody, filling in the hollow of waist about h an inch ;
now put the finger on F, and swing the sleeve forward,
as per dot and dash line, till the cuff rests on a level
of the waist at V, and mark round from F to Y, hol-
lowing it a trifle more as shown ; the outline of the
bottom part is quite a matter of taste, and may be
rounded or pointed, or arranged in any way to taste.
If the body part has been cut without sidebodies, the
solid line from F S to V outlines the under sleeve, it
being cut straight down from F. If cut with sidebodies,
the dash outline illustrates the style it is cut, the bot-
tom being made to agree with the bottom of scye.

Hints on Making.

The shoulder seams are sewn together : the hindarm
pitch of wing at W is put to the hindarm pitch of back ;
the forearm pitch is also arranged to harmonise the
wing with the forepart : the under sleeve at F M is
sewn to F M of the forepart, and the top and under
sleeves are sewn together from F to V. A waist-band
is sewn to the back at the centre and sideseams to keep
it close to the figure, and the remainder of the garment
is completed to taste. We will now proceed to treat of
a few styles of ladies' Capes, and take first the

Three-quarter Circle Cape.

Dia, 66. Fig. 41. Plate 30.

This is one of the easiest of Capes to cut, all that is
necessary being to take the back and forepart, place
the shoulder seams together as per dotted lines I) F,
and then mark round the back gorge and front. The
only point needing special mention is the length ; from
"W to 15 is always to measure, and then a line is drawn
at right angles to the back seam across to F ; then
measure from 3 to 15, and make F to 15^ the same
quantity ; now measure from W to 15, and make I) to
V this quantity plus f of an inch, and by these points
arrange the sweep of bottom. The special feature of
this Cape is the fulness which falls all round ; it is
often made all in one piece, the pattern being arranged
to run with the back seam or where the back seam
would be.

Half Circle Cape.

Diagram 67. Figure 42. Plate 30.

This is a much closer fitting Cape, and is also cut
from a pattern of back and forepart. Arrange these
with the shoulder point D touching, and the centre of
front running at right angles to the back : having got
this, pass the front forward 1 inch and drop it down i

an inch, and in this way provide for the Y at D ; the
outline of the Cape is then got by the patterns in this
position, the length being adjusted in the same way
as described for the Three-quarter Circle Cape. This
is a fairly full style of Cape, but not nearly as full as
the previous one. It is often arranged with a seam
over the shoulders, and, as a guide to locate this seam,
come down from 0 to A one-third of the breast, and
mark across from A to B one-third of the breast : take
out 2 or 3 inches from B to C, and arrange the seams
as illustrated by the dotted lines from B and C to D.
One great advantage of having this seam is, that the
material runs the right way at both back and front.

Close-fitting Cape.
Diagram 68. Fig. 43. Plate 30.

Take the back, forepart, and sleeve, and place them
as illustrated on diagram 57, the sleeve on the forepart
pitch of sleeve and overlapping 1 inch ; the back is
then placed with the back pitch at the hindarm, the
space at C being regulated more or less (say 7 or 8 inches)
as it is desired close or full. The length is regu-
lated as for the others, making the front f of an inch
more than the back. If the sleeve head is desired
puffed, it must be arranged on the sleeve head before
applying it to the forepart and back to cut the Cape
by. This is a very stylish Cape, and one that is always
popular for fairly heavy materials, fur, &c. There are
one or two fancy styles of Capes which are very popular
now, and in order to keep this work up to date, we will
deal with

Yoked Capes Dia. 69. Figs. 44, 45, 46.

Our illustrations portray the square and pointed
yokes, with pleats arranged below in either case. The
back view illustrates the arrangement of the pointed
yoke, whilst for the one with the square front yoke the
back would be also square.

The System, Diagram 69, Plate 31,

Is practically the same as we have just briefly described
for the close-fitting Cape. Take the forepart and lay it
down with the sleeve overlapping about 1 inch as at M,
and arranged with the cuff X 0 laying in its natural
position. Now mark round the forepart from W V R
Q P and S, and then continue the mark as per solid
line from S to H by the sleeve head. Now put the
back with that part where the sleeve is intended to be
pitched to the hindarm of the sleeve at L, arranging
the space H N by judgment, making it wider by swing-
ing the back round by the pivot L if it is required
full round the bottom, and vice versa if it is desired
tight-fitting ; then continue from L to C B A E F and_

-fti&Z&ti&:-

I, marking off the length from A to I to the measure
taken phis seams, and arranging the relative length of
front, either square as shown on figures or pointed, or
in any other way the customer may desire. So far we
have only treated of a plain Cape without yoke or
pleats, we will now describe

How to arrange the Yokes.

These are really nothing more than the top of the
back and forepart cut off and a seam introduced, but a
reference to diagram (>i) will make this perfectly plain.
The shaded part of back as outlined by A B C D E is
the square yoke ; it is generally made slightly pointed
downwards, both back and front ; but of course that is
quite a matter of taste : we have seen some very fan-
tastic designs in the outline of these yokes. The lower
part of the Cape with the square yoke is illustrated by
W T S L D E I, or if pleats are required as per illus-
trations, then add on from E to J and I to K of back,
and T to U and W to X, a quantity in accordance
with the number and style of pleats desired, but we will
deal with these presently. The pointed yokes are cut
as per dot and dash line from C to F and P to V, in
which case part of the shoulder is cut with the lower
part, when of course two seams must be allowed of
overlap. In this way infinite variety may be intro-
duced, both outline, length, and material used playing
a very important part, and as there is so much
scope in this direction, it is beyond the range of
this work to attempt a description of them all. The
more general length for the pointed yoke is to reach
to the waist, whilst the square style generally runs
about <; or 7 inches deep behind, with the front ar-
ranged in accordance.

Provision for the Pleats

Is made in the manner above described, the amount
varying according to the material : for an ordinary
cloth, about ?> inches will be found sufficient for each
pleat, so that if three pleats are desired the amount to
be allowed from T to TJ and W to X would be 9 inches.
A slit is generally arranged at the back pleat of the
front, so that the arms may be brought forward w ith-
out lifting the lower part of the Cape. With the
pointed yoke, it is not so easy to adjust the pleats, still
it becomes fairly easy if the principle is once mastered ;
the best way is to pleat up the material in the style
desired, and then lay down the pattern and cut it out
with the pleats already in the cloth. This simplifies
the matter very considerably, and will always ensure
the pleats being arranged satisfactorily. We will now
give a few

Hints on Making

These more fancy styles. The yokes are generally in-
terlined with canvas and lined with silk, a strip of silk
forming the front facing, except when they are lined
right through with silk, but this is only occasionally.
A waist-band is nearly always put to hold it in at the
back and sides, the only exception being when they are
made very full round the bottom, and not intended to
define the waist at all ; but tins is a style we have not
yet treated of, as they are only occasionally seen in
wear. The edges are more generally turned in and
stitched, the fronts fastening with hooks and eyes ; but
there is no reason Avhy, if so desired, they should not
be made to fasten with holes and buttons. In such a
case the inch of button-stand would require adding all
down the front. Sometimes the front yoke is cut to
extend to the waist in front, though it looks the same
as the square yoke, the pleats being arranged on the
top, this being done with the view of keeping the
shoulders firm and close to the figure, as when the
yoke extends to the waist it can be fastened to the
figure by the aid of the waist-band.

Hoods.

Dias. 70 to 74. Plate 32. Fig. 47 and 48.

Now that these adjuncts to overgarments are so very
popular for both ladies and gentlemen, nothing could
form a more appropriate conclusion to this section,
especially as so few people really understand how to cut
and make them, these Ave are now enabled to place
before our readers embrace the leading styles which are
now being worn. Full size patterns of these can be
obtained at our Office, as well as of any other style our
customers may require, provided sufficient instructions,
or better still, an illustration is sent with the order.
Anyone, however, possessed of ordinary intelligence,
can reproduce those illustrated by the use of an inch
tape, square, &c.

Diagram 70. Figure 47,

Is decidedly the most popular type, and is pretty gene-
rally known under the name of the jelly-bag hood. It
falls open as it were, and shows the lining to advantage,
which is a feature worthy of notice when a stylish effect
is desired, and as the materials used for lining vary so
much, embracing silk, satins, plush, velvet, &c, there
is no lack of material by which, in this way, to relieve
and brighten a garment which would otherwise look
very heavy and dull. Hoods are really an arrangement
to cover the head, and this type is one of the most suit-
able for this purpose, being one of the roomy class
The diagram will readily explain how it may be

.^su.

'•^asSse^

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

duced. The back is cut on the crease or double edge
of the cloth, and the bottom part, as from 20 to 12, is
sewn together, the cut at neck from f to 4| is sewn up,
either to a band with holes to fasten to buttons placed
round the neck, or it may be sewn in with the collar
seam ; the former plan is the oue more generally
adopted, as it allows for the hood being detached if
desired.

The Round Hood, diagram 71, figure 48,

Is a type of hood not nearly so popular as it was
formerly, when it formed part of the ladies' Circular
Cloak. It is cut on the crease down the back as the
former one, and a cord is put in to a hem run all round
the outside and drawn in, forming a series of gathers
which gives it a rather graceful appearance. It is well
to remark that this style should never be cut smaller
than our diagram (except for a child) and in many
cases a larger one would be decidedly preferable. The
neck of this may be sewn in the same way as that
described for the last, and is, in fact a method applicable
to them all.

The Cape Hood, diagram 72,

Is very stylish looking, and when not in use, lies quite
flat across the back from shoulder to shoulder, being
double at that part. As will be seen, it is produced by
the back and foreoart being placed with their shoulder
points touching, and a V taken out at neck, equal to £
of the breast, the bottom part is at D, being rounded so
as to give it a circular appearance at the bottom. It
should be cut with the back on the double, and
points I) 1) and 3, 12t> sewn together, and the
bottom as at E sewn to the corresponding part of
the other half.

Fancy Pointed Hood, diagram 73,

Is quite a distinct style from any of the foregoing, and
is arranged more with the idea of producing effect than
for use, still it can be turned to practical use if desired.
This style is a very favourite one with ladies, and
allows full scope for the exhibition of any fancy lining-
desired. It lies quite flat with two points at bottom,
and a pointed revers which can be faced with any con-
trasting material. The back is cut on the double ;
B B is sewn together, and those parts as from 14,
A C C to 10 are joined to the corresponding parts on
the other side. Point 10, just above C, then lies on
the top of 10 on the back. There is a point at 14,
another just above it by the crease edge, between C C
and the pointed revers 10, 12£ turning back and form-
a most effective hood.

Diagram 74

Is another of the same type, having only one point at
bottom, and a revers sewn on to a hollow edge as 3, '.*,
(J^, going off to point, and overlapping each other at
bottom. This forms a very pretty hood, and is not
quite so complicated as the last one.

Section Seven.

Ladies' Trousers, Breeches and Gaiters.

Diagrams 75 to 79. Plates 33 and 34.

We now come to what may be looked upon as the
more unusual garments, and which perhaps causes the
young cutter more worry and nervousness than any
other garments, this may very easily be avoided.
The first operation is of course measuring, and on this
we will give a few hints. First measure from the waist
to the full length of side desired, in the usual way as
for gents ; to get the length of leg there are three very
good ways ; the one most generally practised is to ask
the lady to sit down on a chair, and then measure the
distance from waist to the chair ; this gives the length
of the body, and if this be deducted from the side, the
accurate length of leg will be the result. Another way
is to measure from waist to hip bone, and place the
fork on a level of 3 inches below this. The third
method of getting the leg measure is to measure from
centre seam of back on to the bone of wrist, as for a
sleeve, and a quantity will thus be obtained which
coincides wonderfully well with the length of leg.
Though, of course, it is highly advisable to get the
length of leg correct, yet it is always preferable to get
it short rather than long, as the former causes little
inconveniences owing to the position occupied when in
the saddle, being so different to gents who ride astride,
and consequently require their riding breeches to come
close up to the fork, with plenty of length from fork to
knee. For the same reason, gents require a far more
open style of cut than ladies. The remaining measures
of waist, seat, size of knee, and bottom, are easily taken
as far as trousers arc concerned ; but with breeches, it
is quite different. In those firms that make these
garments a speciality, they ask the lady to take a seat,
and lift the skirt over her knees and take the tight
knee, small, and calf in the ordinary way. It will be
for our readers to decide whether they will follow this
plan, or ask the lady to forward them herself. For our
own part we can see no reason why any objection
should be raised, provided the operation is done in a
business-like way. In all these things it is not so

much what you do, as how you do it. A judicious
tact will soon enable the cutter to get over these
somewhat delicate operations with ease, and over-
come that nervousness which betrays a want of expe-
rience. We will not dwell further on these preliminary
remarks, but proceed to deal with

The Trousers. Plate 33.

At one time it did not matter much how these were
cut, so long as they were made big enough, but now
that the trains are made so very close fitting, it will
readily be seen how great is the necessity for their
fitting perfectly. Trousers are not so much worn as
they were at one time, breeches and leggings, or
breeches and top boots being largely patronised by the
leaders of society ; but inasmuch as the customers our
clients are likely to have to cater for, not being com-
posed entirely of that class, we think it preferable to
give diagrams of both trousers and breeches. The
materials from which these are mostly made are
stockinette and elastic cloths.

One of the leading West End firms makes a speciality
of dressed deer skin, which allows of the desired form
being imparted with the utmost nicety. This firm
generally make garments of this class to fasten quite
close below the knee, and supply leggings ; or top
boots are worn with them. We have heard many
rumours that ladies are patronising the knickerbocker
breeches with the Devon knee bands, as now worn by
gentlemen ; the material selected for these being of the
most masculine patterns. These, however, have not
yet become very general.

The System Dias. 75 and 76. Plate 33.

It is not necessary for us to point out the positions
of top, leg, or bottoms, as our readers know these are
found in the usual way, though it may be as well to
mention that the legs are cut 1 inch longer than the
measure for fulling on over the knee. E H I is the
centre line of the legs ; from E to B, and E to D are
both one third of the seat, C is midway between E and
D ; 0 to F may be made 1^ inches, 0 to CI the half
waist and 3 inches, the waist being reduced to size by
means of V's, as illustrated. The widths of the legs
are equally divided on either side of H I, the usual
widths for trousers being about 16 knee, 15 bottom.
In drafting the undersides, come up from C to J,
1 inch more than from C to E, and square the scat
seam from J by letting the other arm of the square
rest on B ; make up the size of the seat at the side, by
allowing 2 or 3 inches for seams and ease, continuing
the sideseam to the top pretty straight, and reducing
it to the necessary size by means of V's.

Hints on Making.

It is of the utmost importance that the pcsition the
lady occupies when in the saddle should be borne in
mind, as that is the only position in which they should
be worn, hence, it will be necessary to manipulate the
sides differently.

The top sides should be fulled on at the knee, quite
1 inch for the leg that goes over the pommel (usually
the right leg), and the underside fulled on a like
amount at the seat. All those made from cloth have a
considerable portion of the seat and legs lined with
chamois, to prevent any possibility of chafing ; they
are generally finished with fly fronts, the fly extending
to the leg seam ; eyelets are placed at the back, so
that they may be adjusted to the exact size of waist ;
others are made with flys at the sides, but this is by far
the older plan.

The V's taken out at the waist must all be neatly
finished either by covering with galoon or some other
similar method. Waist bands are never put to the
trousers, the whole aim being to keep everything as
thin as possible. The waist band lining is invariably
silk, which make a nice finish to the top.

Breeches.

Diagrams 77 & 78. Plate 34.

These are precisely the same as the trousers in the
body part, but of course tight-fitting from knee down-
wards, and in this respect they resemble gents panta-
loons, for they are generally extended to within about
2 inches of the ankle, or say ten inches below the knee ;
the width is distributed equally on either side of cen-
tre line for both top and underside, an average mea-
sure of a lady's leg at these parts for a 24 waist, would
be about 14 knee, 12^ small, 13^ calf, and 8| bottom,
the small is generally about 2 inches below the . knee,
and the calf 2h or 3 inches below the small ; these
hints may enable our readers to cut from the most
meagre measures, which we know by experience, is only
too often all he can get for that garment. There are
generally 4 or 5 buttons placed at the bottom of these
of a flat kind, the buttons on the right side being put
on the leg seam side, so as to prevent all unnecessary
friction when in the saddle. This plan is also followed
with

The Gaiters, Diagram 79.

These are cut in the same style as a coachman's,
though some firms continue the tongue up to the top,
instead of the method illustrated ; but this is merely
a point in detail wherein different firms vary.

Draw lines 0 16, and mark off the length to calf,
ankle, bottoms, &c, and measure back from this line

■■.P^^g^j^-

half the size of the leg at the various, parts plus \
inch ; thus at calf, half of 13^ = 6| + \ inch fox-
seams = 7 j. Arrange the run of the buttons to agree
with the sideseam of breeches, and leave an inch for
button stand on the one side, and come out from line
0, 16, as much as the button stand is behind it ; thus
0 to 1^ is 1\ inches, allowing 1 inch for button stand,
would equal 2|. The diagram illustrates a very good
size of bottom, and if the figures are taken to represent
inches all over, this will produce a very good medium
size pattern, starting in all cases from 0 for the length
ond from 0 If) for the widths.

Spats.

The bottom part of the gaiter diagram illustrates
how these garments may be cut, and as they are now
largely used in the Winter, we have no doubt our rea-
ders will have occasional calls for them ; they are made
from 0 to 10 inches long ; and to produce them, all
our readers will have to do will be to take this diagram,
and measure from the bottom upwards the length
desired. The tongue for these is carried through to
the top always. Sometimes the buttons are run in a
curve towards the front, but this is a variation our rea-
ders will readily be able to alter if their customers
should so desire it.

Section Eight.

Ladies' Skirts.

Under this heading we purpose giving illustrations
of a variety of Riding Trains, two of which will be
reduced models of West End garments, and the third
will be given more to illustrate how these may be cut
by system, for though we do not generally advise such
a method of catting these garments, yet it is especially
useful in cutting for children or any out of the way
size. For general purposes

The West End Train, Plate 35,

Will meet the requirements of the ordinary run of cus-
tomers better, it being a pattern that has been carefully
tested and tried by a large number, and is now so
improved as to leave little to be desired. It is largely
used in the West End, as well as the most fashionable
hunting districts.

As will be seen, it consists of three pieces, viz., back
( Diagram 80), side (Diagram «1), and front (Diagram
82), which are put together exactly as they are placed
on the diagram : the right side of top part being joined

to the right side of under pait, as shown by EFG,
the corresponding letters going together in each case.
The diagram exactly represents the inside of a Train
with the seam at E F fl ripped open. The vent is
placed either at the side or front, according to taste,
and a pocket is generally inserted in the facing as illus-
trated. The under part and top part are lined over
the seat and knee with Silesia, to take some of the wear
caused by the friction with the saddle, the position of
this being shown with the dot and dash line, and elastic
is put on in a suitable position for each boot. That part
of the underside as shown by I F J is fulled on to the
opposite part of the fish on either side. The topside is
also stretched up as shown by marks at L, but at all
other parts it is put together plain ; the letters corre-
sponding show where the various seams are to be sewn
together. The bottom is finished with a broad hem, in
which weights of lead are frequently inserted when the
material is at all thin. The length is regulated by
making the sides as at C D agree with the length from
waist to ground when standing, trains being now much
shorter than they were in the olden time (when trains
merely consisted of so much cloth pleated into the band
at waist). They are finished at waist both with and
without waistbands : in the former case they are merely
bound, and left so for the sake of thinness, but if a
band is put on it is as well to have a point to put at
the centre of front as at X, which is a very great assist-
tance to the lady in adjusting its position. Whatever
plan is adopted for finishing the waist at top, it should
be carefully arranged to agree with the exact size of
waist, and hooks should be put on by which to fasten it
to tabs fixed at back and sides of the bodice part. Any
slight variation in the size of waist may be arranged by
reducing the size of cuts in under part at K and of
sidepiece at N, but if there is more than 1 or l\ inches
of difference in size of waist, it will be best to enlarge
or reduce it throughout by adding to or taking from
the parts all down, as at A B of underside and C J > of
topsides : whilst all variations in the length must be
made by adding to or taking from the bottom.

In Cutting from the Cloth

Great care must be used to have the face of material
right side out, and we think we cannot better explain
ourselves than to say, lay the pattern down as repre-
sented in the diagram, i.e., presuming the cloth to be
opened out with the wrong side uppermost. Place the
pattern of the top part with the side at C D close up to
left hand selvage, standing with the bottom of the
cloth towards you. The under part is then taken out
by laying it with A B close up to the right hand
selvage, and then taking the sidepiece out from the
most convenient part with 0 D towards the right.

.24LL

G3^^«pSl

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS.

These instructions apply to the ordinary style of riding
with the right leg resting on the pommel of the saddle.
There are a few ladies who ride with the left leg in that
position, when these instructions must be reversed, but
such cases are few and far between.

A " Try-on "

Should always be arranged, if possible, as the run of
bottom is a special feature with those who make this
branch a study, and this can only be successfully
arranged by a " try-on," as it is always advisable to
consult the ladies' wishes, while at the same time being
prepared to advise her upon any point she may desire.
The position of the elastics for foot can also be decided
in this manner, which will be found more simple and
successful than any elaborate calculation of leg length,
&c. A dummy horse is kept for this purpose in all the
leading ladies' tailoring establishments, but if the firm
should not possess this desideratum, it may be safely
left in the hands of the lady's maid and the intended
wearer, who will adjust all these little details to a
nicety.

The Diagram

Is drawn to the one-twelfth scale, and should produce
a garment when made up to measure 2^ yards round
the bottom for a 24 waist, Full size patterns of this
may be obtained at our office, price Is. 6d., post free
Is. 7d., which method may be preferred by many of our
readers to drafting it out for themselves.

The New Safety Train.
Diagrams 83 and 84. Plate 36.

Many accidents to ladies thrown from their horses,
having been very much aggravated by their Habit
Trains catching in the saddle, has induced some of the
inventive minds to prepare a Train in such a style as
would not offer the least resistance to the complete fall
of the lady from her horse. We have recently had
several of these through our hands, and the diagrams
on Plate 36 is a reduced model of one of these, and
which, if our readers will reproduce by the ordinary tape,
will be suitable for an average lady of 24 waist and 40
side length. We shall not go over the diagram point
by point, as it would serve no purpose, especially as
these are seldom cut by system, indeed, we believe we
shall be right in saying that 91) cutters out of every 100
engaged in the best ladies' trades cut their trains out in
this way, though for those who prefer a system we give
one on the next page, so that our remarks on this New
Safety Train, will be more of a practical than a scien-
tific nature. Variations in length should be made at

the bottom, but if the side length should show a great
increase, it would be well to lower the V for the knee,
as at W D, so that the distance from 12 to K agrees
with the measure taken on the customer. Variations
in the size of waist alone may be made by enlarging or
reducing the V's, whilst for ladies, larger or smaller,
both in seat and waist, the variation should be made
through from 0 to 40, by merely adding to or deduct-
ing from as the case may require. Care must, of
course, be taken to get the pattern cut the right way,
as previously described for the West End Train.

The Special Features

Of this train are, first, its being left open from I) to 56,
there a large hole is cut as illustrated at W D of topside,
and F V of underpart, so that the usual surplus mate-
rial between the knee and the pommel is avoided, and
in case of accident there is plenty of room for the Train
to free itself from the saddle. A double strip of elas-
tic about t) inches long is sewn on at A, and a button
placed at 3 0, so that the elastic may come under the
knee and secure the lady at that part ; and in order to
avoid any possibility of the elastic becoming unfastened,
a short loop of twisted cord is put at 8 close to the but-
ton, which is put over the button after the elastic is
fastened to it, so that if the elastic should work itself
free of the button, it is still held by the loop : this loop
is also useful to hold the skirt up when walking, when
it is fastened to the button at 1 7 of undersides. Below
the opening it will be noticed there are four elastic
loops, which are fastened to the buttons on the under
part ; neither of these are stayed with linen, as the
object of having it open is to allow the weight of the
body to break away these tabs or buttons from their
place in case of the lady being thrown from her horse,
and the train catches on the pommel. As some of our
readers may desire a train without this safety arrange-
ment, we have outlined at W and I) the amount to be
filled in of the topside, and from ;);>h to V of the under-
side, when it will be made up in the ordinary style,
closed all round.

A few hints on Making.

The shaded parts of top and underside are lined with
linen or silesia, the stays for the footstraps are covered
with Italian cloth, and the opening is bound with Prus-
sian binding or 'leather, a waist band is generally put
round the top, and may either be of of Melton or Ita-
lian cloth, the latter being often preferred on account
of thinness. The cuts or V's are usually taped, and
the opening for putting on or off is either made at the
side, forming a continuation of the V at f>.\, :> and 4,
or it may be arranged at front as at 12, 10^, in which
latter case it is fastened together with hooks and ev

-(a-^^^i^g.

placed about 1 inch apart ; and in the former it is
fastened together with holes and buttons and a fly. A
pocket is usually inserted in the opening, the outline of
which we have illustrated by the dot and dash lines.
A broad hem, say 3 inches, is left round the bottom,
and in cutting, an inlay is usually left down the side-
seam. In cutting it from the cloth special care must
be used not to cut it inside out, an error many begin-
ners make. If the pattern is laid down as it is placed
on the Plate, the face of the cloth should be uppermost.

The quantity of material required will be 3 yards of
5G inches wide material ; but if it should not run quite
so wide, a wheel piece can easily be put on the topside
at 56.

Complicated as this garment looks at first sight, a
closer examination will show it to be really of a very
simple nature, and such as any tailor of ordinary expe-«
rience might make easily, the principal feature being
to locate the knee accurately, and avoid all surplus
materia], whether at seat or lap. The length is gene-
rally made to just cover or show the golosh of the boot
of the stirrup foot. Various methods are adopted to
hold the Habit and Train together, hooks and eyes, or
tabs and buttons being the two most frequently employ-
ed. We have placed buttons on the diagram, one
at the side just below 1\ on line 2, and one just above
17 on line 5|, which seam would come as nearly as
possible down the centre of back, the centre of front
being fixed midway between h\ and lo|, and should be
marked by a little white cotton on the waistband to
assist the wearer in adjusting it properly.

These are the principal points to be observed in
making this Train. We have previously dealt with try-
ing them on, and many other hints of a general nature,
and which our readers will doubtless remember ; should
any point in the diagram not be quite clear, it is drawn
to the one-twelfth scale, and may be found accordingly.
We may also add that patterns of this style of train can
be had from the Tailor and Cutter Office, special refe-
rence being made when ordering to the New Safety
Train.

The Cutters' Practical Guide Riding Train
by System. Diagram 85. Plate 37.

It is generally acknowledged that the majority of
cutters produce their Riding Trains from block pat-
terns, and we are not going to dispute the efficacy of so
doing, as we believe it is one of the best methods of
producing the general run of Trains. But there are
times in the experience of most cutters whose business
lies to any extent in the ladies' trade, that orders have
come for very out-of-the-way sizes. Most probably
.this conies in the shape of the little girl who is just

-(^jg^^j

beginning her career as an equestrienne, and as her
form is altogether different to that of the normal figure,
for the cutter to use his ordinary block pattern would
be found not only inappropriate, but almost certain to
lead to failure. It is for such cases that a system based
on what we believe to be sound principles is of especial
use, and the one we now lay before our readers for the
first time will, we feel sure, be equal to all such cases.
Systems such as this one are only arrived at after much
study and extended experiment ; indeed, this which we
now lay before our readers, occupying but a page of
this work, has taken years of study in its development ;
and though we do not claim perfection for it, we have
every confidence that it will produce a good-fitting
Train, and be especially useful in those out of the
way sizes above referred to, as well as forming a foun-
dation for others to elaborate and perfect.

The Measures

Required are side, waist, seat, round sent and knee,
with right leg raised as in the act of riding (this latter
may be omitted, but is decidedly preferable) ; they
would probably stand 40 side, 24 waist, 40 seat, G4
seat and knee. The applicaaion of these measures is as
follows : draw line ABC; A to C is the side length ;
A to B one-fourth side, and square across to DLP;
B to D is one-fourth seat, and D I corresponds with
the fork quantity of trousers, viz., one-third BD; I J
is the same as I) I : J to L is one-fourth side, which
will be found about equal to one-third of the leg
length : L P is half knee circumference ; thus the total
distance from B to P is made up ; this may also be
obtained by measuring off B to P half seat and knee
circumference plus 1 inch, and point L found by
measuring back from P half knee circumference. Come
up from L to M from 1 to H inches, and draw line
J M * ; make M a pivot, and sweep from R to P. We
now turn to the upper part ; square line D E at right
angles to D B, and mark from E to G one-fourth waist
plus li ; hollow from E to F about 1^ inches, or an
amount equal to one-sixth of the disproportion of waist
in the reverse way as followed for corpulent trousers,
taking the ideal as waist G inches less than seat ; take
out 1 inch in a V at H, and terminate it about 4 inches
down ; this is often used to form the opening. Square
line F K at right angles to F J, and make F K one
fourth waist plus ^ inch, and continue the run of waist
across as shown, and connect K R as shown ; take out
two fishes of about H inches each as shown, so that
they will come just over the knee. Continue below P
by coming down from L to 0 \\ inches, and squaring
at right angles to 0 P ; shape the side by springing it
out about 1 inch at C, and slightly round it as illus
trated, and the topside is complete.

!££,.

The Underpart

Is got by laying down the cut-out forepart, and sweep-
ing from A to X, using G as a pivot, and making A to
X 4 inches, and draw side of underside from X to C.
Now make star a pivot, and sweep from K to S, and
mark off 4 inches ; draw a line from X to S, and
reduce to the size of the waist by means of V's as illus-
trated, making TUVW about 1 inch above line S X.
Come out from R to Y from 1 to 2 inches, and take
out Y to correspond in quantity with the two fishes
from the forepart, taking out the surplus length from
M to Y in a V upwards, as illustrated by dotted line at
M. Complete the outline of undersides by the top-
sides, making it rather hollower at the bottom, as shown
by the dotted lines. A fish may be taken out of top-
sides, as illustrated by dot and dash line from I, if a
very clean-fitting lap is desired. If more room is
desired over the seat of undersides, increase the quantity
from A to X and K to S, which will have the same
effect as an increased seat angle would to trousers, the
principle involved in this Train being very similar to
those employed in trousers cutting generally. Care
must be taken to locate the knee correctly, and, if
found possible, it will be as well to take a measure from
waist to knee when in the saddle, and then apply it
" from I to M, which may increase or reduce the distance
from M to I. The same hint we have previously given
for the making of Trains will apply with equal force to
this, so that it will be quite unnecessary for us to again
repeat them here.

Shaped Skirt Band. Diagram 86. Plate 38.

Of all the odds and ends the ladies' tailor has to
know how to produce, there is probably none of more
general usefulness than the shaped skirt band, as it
admits of such general application. Hence we give a
simple system for producing such. The measures neces-
sary are : the depth of band, the size of waist, and the
size of seat, which for the present we will say are 7
deep, 24 waist, 40 seat ; seat measure taken about 7
inches below waist.

Commence by drawing line 0, 7, 0, 12 at right
angles ; from 0 to 7 is 7 inches ; come out 1, and
draw line from 0 to 1 ; from 0 to 12 is half waist,
from which sweep up to 5^, using point 0 as the pivot ;
from 12 to 5^ is one-third of the difference between
waist and seat, and draw top from 5 h to 0 by a gradual
hollow ; to get the run of the front come up from 5^
to 11, as much as from 12 to f>i, and then draw the
front from 5^ to A at right angles to 0 11, making the
length to agree with measure taken, and complete by
adding on a button-stand wherever it is desired, in the
manner illustrated at 0 1.

These are sometimes used in making a foundation,
by joining a piece of straight or slightly sloped material
on at the bottom, as is illustrated on Diagram 87, from
line 7 20 downwards, the back being pleated on. The
advantage of this method is the thinness round the
waist and hips, as by this means all V seams or fulness
are avoided. It is a most useful pattern in many ways
— such, for instance, as fashioning the drapery, illus-
trated on figures on diagrams ; putting point 5^ to the
front of skirt and A to 7 ; shaping the top by b\ 0,
and continuing over the hips from 0 to 20, when the
extra length of side is pleated in to form the folds, as
illustrated. This, however, is merely one of its uses.
It may be used to cut the top edge of the flaps for
jackets of the Newmarket type, and in the case of short
skirts it may be used for them ; but we have no doubt
our readers will soon find the uses to which it may be
put, so we will pass on to deal with

The Skirt System. Diagram 87.

The measures necessary for this are : length of front,
side and back, size of waist taken tightly, and size of
hips taken rather easily, about 7 inches down from the
waist. These would probably stand, 39^, 40, 41 ; 24,
40, and are applied as follows : Draw line 0 40, 0 20 ;
from 0 to 20 is half seat ; from 0 to 7 is 7 inches
always, and from 0 to 40 is the length of front, plus \
inch ; come in from 0 to 1 1 inch, and drop it ^ inch,
and draw a line from 1 through 7, which finds the
centre crease edge of front ; of course it is not impera-
tive that this should be on the crease, but when cub
from Italian cloth it may be so with advantage ; make
from ^ to 4 one-eighth of waist ; now come in from 20
to 19 one inch, and draw line from 19 through 20 to
find run of the side ; now if it is desired to get it
smaller round the bottom edge, come in less from 19,
but on no account reduce the size from 7 to 20, as that
must be retained in order to provide room for the seat ;
now reduce the top to one and a half inches less than
half waist by means of V's, as illustrated ; though, in
making, we prefer to arrange the two back ones by
pleats, rather than by cutting the V's out ; as by that
means any variation in the size of the hip is provided for.
The front drapery illustrated on right hand figure on
diagram 87, is arranged just the same as. this, the back
V's being generally dispensed with, and the fulness put
in to the band at side. If it is desirable to have a
seam down the side of foundation ; the V at 9^ may
be continued through to the bottom as illustrated by
dot and dash line ; indeed, all the V's may be done in
this way if seams are desired to introduce effect. AVe
now come to the back foundation.

Diagram 88.

This is merely a piece of material 13 inches wide
top and bottom, the back being cnt on the crease, this
is drawn in to li inches a side at the top, and so re-
duced to the size of the waist, but to counteract the
hollowing tendency of this drawing in, a little round
must be added to the top.

As these garments are somewhat out of the ordinary
run, we wrill give a few extra instructions, so that the
inexperienced may know how to proceed

The materials mostly used for foundations are linen?
Italian cloth, silk, &c. The best of these is linen, as
it combines all the advantages of silk, while it weal's
better and it is far less expensive.

The foundation is seamed up with the seams to come
outside, and a facing is put all round the bottom some
5 or (> inches deep, so that the bottom is bound with
this facing ; on the top of this a narrow kilt is put
also about 4 or 5 inches deep ; this is done more with
the view of keeping the skirt out round the bottom
than for it to show, though as we write there is a
decided tendency for them to be seen, and in some
cases are put on the top of the drapery. An opening is
left at the right sideseam for the pocket to go in, about
5h inches long, the top about 5 inches from the waist :
on the left side an opening is left quite 10 inches long
to allow the wearer to put it on or off. This should be
well stayed at the bottom, and a facing put on so as to
hide its existence in wear. The waist-band is best of
k section, that is, the top part is single and the bottom
part double, and allows the foundation to be sewn to
the one part and then the drapery to be slipped under
the top one, and the whole firmly fastened together.
Putting on the waist-band is a very important detail ;
the front or front and sidepieces should take up 3 inches
less than the entire waist measure, and the back
gathered or pleated in to 1^ inches aside ; that is, the
foundation of back measuring 26 inches right across, is
drawn in to 3 inches. In arranging the V's of the
foundation at the side, we always prefer pleating them
over and not cutting them out, as by that means they
adjust themselves to the shape of the figure at the hips
automatically. In dealing with very stout ladies it will
be found a very good plan to take out a horizontal V
from the bottom of the second V forward, in the same
way as tailors usually treat big men's vests ; by this
means a receptacle is formed for the prominence, and
the skirt is kept well in at the bottom — a result always
aimed at, though of course care must be taken not to
overdo this feature, as it is certainly preferable to have
a little excess of drapery, than to outline the stomach
too closely. We will now pass on to that most impor-
tant phase of ladies' skirt making,

Drapery. Plate 39.

To drape a skirt well is undoubtedly a work of art ;
and inasmuch as each figure requires certain adaptations
to make it the most suitable, it will at once be under-
stood that any rules we may lay down are to be applied
in a general sense, leaving the special application to
the figure to the draper's judgment.

The material has a considerable effect on the drapery ;
heavy, thick material needs far less to form a fold than
thin. The warp or lengthways of the material should
always run down the figure, and if not wide enough to
produce the desired effect, join on some on either side ;
always avoid a seam down the centre of front.

Drapery consists of an artistic arrangement of folds
and hangings, and there can be no doubt that the best
means o! becoming proficient in this art is by experi-
ment. The foundation skirt may be likened to the
walls of a house, the drapery to the paper and pictures
and other ornamentation hung upon them. With the
view of illustrating the principal methods of draping
we have prepared a series of figures.

Figure 49, Plate 39.

Illustrates a deep kilt. The artistic effect of this adds
height to the figure, and is generally a favourite style,
either as illustrated or in a modified form. It is pro-
duced at the sacrifice of width, thus: suppose your
foundation skirt was 40 long and 2± yards round, your
material would then be cut off in lengths of say 42 to
44, the extra 2 inches allowed for hem at bottom, the
longer lengths allowing for the extra length of back ;
these would then be seamed up till it was from 4^ to 6|
yards round. The smallest quantity a kilt can be
arranged from to look at all passable is double quantity,
whilst for thin materials treble quantity will be needed.
The seams should always be hidden under the folds,
which should also be nicely graded in at the waist. If
the kilt is very deep it will be necessary to keep it in
place by means of tape put about 14 inches apart ; thus
a kilt right up to the waist would have two tapes, one
14 inches from the bottom and the other about 28.

Horizontal Folds. Figure 50. Plate 39-

To produce these, extra length is required, the points
below the folds would be exactly the same as the foun-
dation ; each fold would consume about 4 inches of
length in a fairly good substance cloth. The best
method of arranging these satisfactorily — in the absence
of draping it direct on the figure — is to get a dummy
and make it up, by wrapping cloth, &c, to as near as
you can judge the size and shape of the figure. The
best ladies' tailors keep dummies so made up of all
their best customers. Take the foundation, and hav

.&J&Z&&PJ*.

^a^ser^

TO CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

put it into the waist band, &c, arrange your folds of
drapery on this till the desired effect is produced.
There is no golden rule for this ; nothing but practice
and experiment can teach you how to drape artistically
for all your customers, inasmuch as every figure has its
peculiar feature, its points of beauty to bring out, its
points of ugliness to tone down ; in addition to which
materials vary considerably in the way they form folds,
or, in other words, drape ; so that what might be a
good rale for one material or one figure, would not
apply at all for another. The artistic effect of folds
across the figure as illustrated on figure 50, is to make
it appear wider and shorter.

Diagonal Folds. Figure 51. Plate 39.

These are produced at the expense of both length
and width, and are the most difficult to arrange for in
any other way than by draping the figure or the dummy
as already described ; but if it is desired to form some
idea of the shape the material required for this drapery,
take the foundation pattern, mark where the folds are
desired, and cut it across at each part so marked, and
allow 4 inches (or more) space between the parts ; but
this will only give a general idea, and must be correct-
ed by actual draping on the figure or dummy. Dia-
gonal folds have a very graceful appearance, as they
neither produce length at the expense of width, nor
width at the expense of length ; there is a grace about
the curve which take away all hardness of outline, and
makes it generally a favourite. It should be remem-
bered that whenever a fold is introduced, the artistic
effect is the same as if a line was placed on the figure,
which makes it appear longer in the direction it is
running. In arranging drapery it is always advisable
to keep the straight thread of the material straight
down the front ; as if it is twisted more to the one
side than the other, the bias would be greater on the
one side than the other, and would consequently cause
the folds to hang differently ; in referring to this we
are not ignoring the fact that draperies are often ar-
ranged on the bias, but the same rule applies. If it is
to be arranged on the bias, see that the centre of front
forms the true bias, when the folds (if diagonal) will
come on the straight of the material in the same way as
if the warp was placed down the centre of front, the
folds would be on the bias. We will not dwell on this
subject of folds, &c, longer, as any variety that may
be introduced must come under one of the three
heads : horizontal, vertical, or diagonal ; and the same
principles which govern them at one place must be
applied to produce them in another in order to get
similar effects. A most effective method of skirt
making is arranged by the combination of material as
illustrated on

Figures 52 and 53, Plate 39.

One of its especial features is its giving consonance
to the costume, a rule of ornamentation that should
never be lost sight of ; thus, suppose the bodice has a
vest in it, the skirt should have a panel of the same
material as the vest at some part. If for a stout lady
it could not be better than up the centre of front, as
illustrated on figure 53. By such means the figure is
made to appear narrower ; the introduction of a front
panel gives vertical lines, which divides the width and
adds apparently to the length, which effect may still
further be emphasized if the panels are slightly draped
or of a striped material. A panel always appears to
best advantage when it is of richer material than the
skirt itself.

Figure 52, Plate 39,

Illustrates another method of usincr a combination of
materials, which at different times has become very
popular, especially when polonaises are in vogue. The
same remarks we have just made as regards the repe-
tition of idea from the bodice, applies to this ; but
there is one remark we must not omit, and that is :
never arrange the darkest material to come at the bot-
tom, as at a little distance the length of the figure
terminates with the light part, and if this is arranged
to be the apron, the figure would be very much stunted.
A reference to figure 50 will illustrate this, the length
of the skirt apparently ending just below the braid.
Figure 52 illustrates how it should be arranged, the
light material being at the bottom. Figure 50 shows
how it ought not to be done. If it is desired to get
the dark part at the bottom, this defect may be avoided
by the introduction of a flounce or crossway band along
the bottom of the drapery, and so attracting the eye to
notice it. These are little points, but it is in the atten-
tion paid to such trifles that ladies' tailoring becomes a
fine art.

Skirt for Check Material, Figure 54.

Checks have two serious drawbacks when used on
any but the finest figures. First, they make the figure
appear wider without adding to the height, and,
secondly, they cut the figure up into squares, which at
once enables the slightest difference in the sides of the
wearer to be detected ; indeed, when the checks are not
true, as they more often are not, they give the wearer a
decidedly one-sided appearance. The best method of
avoiding this is to arrange the material on the bias,
which course avoids the hard set square, and instead of
crossing the figure on the true horizontal and vertical,
they ran diagonally, and then have a tendency rather
to add to the height than the width. This same

method is used very frequently for the hodice, but the
more general way is to arrange the bodice with the
pattern running in the same way as diagram 22, and
the skirt on the bias. Much might be written on the
varieties of checks, but our readers know their varieties
and the many beautiful blends in which they are made
and which makes them so attractive ; so we will
pass on to

Figure 55. Flounces or Tucks.

The artistic effect of these is undoubtedly to create
width at the expense of length. In the case of the
former style, it is merely a series of flounces arranged
one above the other on the foundation ; with the later
style the skirt
would be cut very
much longer than
was needed. For
example : for
every :i inch
tuck desired, the
skirt must be
cut 6 inches
longer, so that
our readers can
soon calculate
the necessary
quantity requir-
ed in accord-
ance with the
number of tucks
desired. This
style of skirt
would most pro-
bably be made
up without a
foundation. In
a modified style
this is a very
popular skirt for

young ladies who are still growing, the one great re-
commendation being, the flounces can be let down as
they grow taller : but as the ladies' tailor does not do
much for this class we will pass en to deal with

Figure 56. Braided Skirts.

Braid is always a favourite style of ornamentation
with the high-class ladies' tailor ; and, when nicely
done and the braid of good quality, it needs nothing
else to stamp the garment as a high-class produc-
tion. Braid is generally arranged on symmetrical
designs, that is. the one side is an exact repetition
of the other, only in reverse. When the ladies' tailor

If liifltf
^ii fii if

Figure 55.— Flounces or Tucks,

has to braid a skirt, he either has to get a ready pre-
pared design that can be transferred to the material
with a hot iron, or has to design one himself, which, if
he has any idea of drawing, is a very easy operation.
Let him take a daisy and a few leaves, or any other
flower, and then blend them together, and ho will soon
get a very pretty design. Having got this he folds his
paper over and pricks it through with a good sized
pin ; this gives him the other half of his design of the
same pattern as his original drawing, but reversed. He
then places this pricked design on his cloth, in the
position he desires the braiding to be, and sprinkles
some white powder over it — finely scraped pipeclay will
do, but it is rather coarse, and French chalk is prefer-
able. Having carefully gone over every pin-ho'.e with

this, he removes the
paper design, and then
proceeds to fill in his
design in a more sub-
stantial way. Take
some flake white and
mix it with a little
gum and water, and
mark round the de-
sign indicated by the
spots with a quill pen,
any part that may not
be quite distinct being
easily obtained by a
reference to the design.
Having got the out-
line distinct, the put-
ting on of the braid is
a very simple process,
always trying to ar-
range the stitches so
as not to show. If
possihle, a strand of
the braid should be
Fig 56. -Braided Skirts. used for sewing. Use

care, be patient, and the result will reward you
The braid mostly used is a narrow Russia, though
some very artistic results are got by using different
kinds of braid, some of which are of a very ornamsntal
character, and show up a decided contrast to the nar-
row Russia, and in this way are useful in working in
designs of leaves and flowers. Very much more might
lie written on this subject of skirts and skirt drapery,
but we have already extended our remarks somewhat,
this being a subject that is not so well understood us
other branches of the tailoring trade, but a little prac-
tice and a little experiment on the lines we have sug-
gested will soon simplify what may appear a difficult
matter, and pave the way for success. We will now
conclude this section by a few hints on

ii£

Back Drapery

As worn at present. This is simply a full width of
.")4 inch material gathered or box pleated into the waist-
band at the back. Sometimes it is arranged with one
large box pleat, at others two, but the principle is the
same. "When steels and bustles were worn, an extra
round was needed at the top to go over them, but as
these are now out of date, there is only the smallest
amount of round necessary. The back is generally
made with plenty of material in its drapery, but the
same principles apply to it as with the front drapery as
regards folds, &c., so that it will be unnecessary for us
to repeat.

-ooo

Section Nine.

Blouses, Shirts and Combinations.

In reviewing the previous sections to see what gar-
ments have not been treated of, we especially noticed
those which form the subject of this section.

Amongst the many special garments the tailor who
caters for tl.e fair sex is called upon to make, the shirt
and blouse are perhaps the garments that are mostly
worn, being suitable for all kinds of outdoor exercise,
be it boating, lawn tennis, or the latest development
for ladies' cricket : but probably the larger share of
the orders the tailor receives will lie for boating cos-
tumes in flannel or similar materials.

The Marlow Shirt. Diagrams 88 to 93.

These are of course mostly made from cambric, and
got up in the same way as a gent's shirt, the front
being inserted of a different width stripe, or the front
may be the only part striped, the body part being
white. If our readers look at a gent's shirt, and see
how that is made, they will have a capital guide for
making these. There is, however, one important diffe-
rence, they are left open all down the front, and only
extend to about ."> inches below the waist. That part
is generally worn under the skirt, a fancy waist belt
being worn over the waist band of the skirt. A tape
is placed at the waist, and a drawing tape run through
it, thus enabling the fulness to be equally distributed
all round the waist, or as may lie deemed the most
effective. This garment is very popular amongst the
frequenters of the Thames Valley in the Summer time,
as well as at those fashionable seaside resorts, such as
Brighton, Hastings, &c.

The System. Diagram 88. Plate 40.

Square lines V 21, V F: from V to F is one-sixth
of the neck, as also is the bottom of the gorge, in fact
the gorge is swept by point V : from V to 2 is one-
eighth of the natural waist ; to sj is f inch less than
one-fourth of the breast : to 1 '>h is the natural waist
length, below which it is continued to taste ; from 2 to
D is one-fourth breast, from which a line is squared
down as shown, and a line drawn from F to I), which
finds the slope of the shoulder : from 8 to AY is 2
inches more than a fourth breast ; the scye may now
be drawn, hollowing 1 inch in front of line 1): the
side is drawn at right angles from AY, and the waist
hollowed h inch or more ; a button stand is left on
down the front of about 1 inch, and the front is
complete.

AYe now tike the front to cut the back, and lay it
down as per dotted line of diagram 2 : fill in the back
scye 1 inch, as in diagram : draw a line straight across
from 1), and add 1 inch beyond the extreme edge of
front, so that there will he about 2 inches to full on or
pleat into the yoke on either side.

The Yoke, Diagram 90, Plate 40.

Is cut also by the forepart, which is represented by the *f$>
dotted line, the shoulder seam is cut the same : lint to
find the back seam, come up half way between the
bottom of gorge and V, give a little extra width below
I), and shape the remainder to taste. This style is
very popular. We now pass on to

The Sleeve, Diagram 91.

From <> to 2 is 2 inches, or whatever is allowed over
the fourth of the breast when drafting the forepart
from «| to AY ; continue on to 17^, the length of
sleeve desired : make from 2 to 8| the half size of
scye, plus any allowance that may lie desired for pleat-
ing on the shoulder, and make the width to taste. The
bottom of the sleeve is put into a cuff, the outline of
which is illustrated on diagram '.):!.

Diagram '.)2 shows one of the many styles of collars
worn on these garments, and which it is unnecessary
for us to describe further, as the only variation neces-
sary to introduce is the length.

Lady's Blouse. Diagram 94.

This is probably one of the simplest garments it is
possible to cut, as it is really only the outline of a
bodice, minus any waist suppressions. They may be
worn in a similar way to the shirt described above, ai d
the fulness arranged above the skirt at the waist. The
doi and dash line across the front and hack illustrate

^I^^^a..

-•^j^z&r^--

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

the plan adopted when a yoke is desired, the lower part
being often fulled on this line, in which case about 2
or 3 inches must be added on beyond the outline of
both back and front, according to the degree of fulness
desired.

The Sailor Collar. Diagram 95.

These are often worn with blouses, sometimes sepa-
rate, sometimes fastened to them ; being generally
of a contrasting colour, they add much to the effect.
They are very simple to cut, the system being as fol-
lows : — Take a forepart and back of the size breast de-
sired, and place the shoulder seams together, mark
down the back seam for the centre of the collar, and
then round the back neck and down the front as low
as desired ; the length and width being quite a matter
of taste, we can only refer our readers to the diagram
as a guide, which is but an example to be varied from
as desired.

Either the sleeve shown on Diagram 91, or an
ordinary sleeve, are suitable to be worn with the blouse,
but whichever style is adopted, looseness must be a
marked feature, otherwise it will not be in harmony
with the body part ; for that reason, perhaps, Diagram
91 style of sleeve would be the most suitable.

Combinations. Dias. 96 to 99. Fig. 57.

This garment has become very popular during the
past few years, and is used for many kinds of athletic
exercises, under short-kilted skirts, whilst in addition
to this they are largely used for ordinary wear : so that
no work on ladies' garments would be complete without
it. They are made in so many different ways and
from so many different materials, that we shall have to
leave our readers to arrange these details, so at once
proceed to describe

The System. Diagram 96. Plate 41.

Draw line AX; A to C is one-eighth natural waist ;
A E one-fourth breast ; A H natural waist plus i an
inch ; H J one-fourth seat plus 1 inch ; J X length of
leg desired. A to B one-sixth neck ; C to D one-
fourth breast ; E to F 1 inch less than one-fourth
breast to find front of scye ; E to G one-fourth breast
plus -1 to i\ : H to I one-fourth breast ; J to K one-
fourth seat : K P drawn at right angles to J K, or
parallel to J X ; P to 0 width of leg desired ; J M
half J K, or one-eighth seat ; L is midway between
]\i and J. Take a fish out of forepart to make it fit
close at waist, as per dotted line. If intended to fasten
down the front, add on a button stand of about 1 inch,
and the forepart is complete.

The Back. Diagram 97. Plate 41.

Take the cut-out forepart and place as per dotted
lines, from H to T is 1 inch ; F to S is 1 inch ; A to
R is f inch ; all the other points are as for the fore-
part. It is customary to arrange them to fasten at the
waist behind, when an extra inch should be left at
bottom of back, to allow of the undersides over-
lapping.

Diagram 98, Plate 41,

Illustrates the underpart of the lower portion, the
dotted lines illustrate the forepart, H to 0 is 3 inches.
Draw line from M through U, measure up seat, and
generally allow 3 inches beyond seat measure (if desired
very easy allow more), and draw sideseam straight
through from P X to W ; draw line H I across to W,
and so get the length of side ; place the square on the
seat seam YUV, and square across to W. The uuder-
sides may be cut all in one with the top, by merely
letting the undersides overlap h inch at P and X.

Diagram 99, Plate 41.

Is the sleeve. 1 to 2 is 2 inches, 2 to 3 is the length
of forearm desired, 4 to 5 is the same, 2 to 4 is half __.
size of scye, arid 3 to 5 is the width of sleeve desired.
These combinations are frequently cut low at the neck,
but our readers will readily be able to do this, as it only
needs cutting as much as is desired from EB of back,
and C B of forepart.

Ladies' Drawers.

The system as here laid down can be used for
Knickers or Drawers ; cutting the topsides, as illus-
trated by dotted line from Q to I, which is got by
arranging the square one arm on H L and the other
resting on I. These garments are almost invariably
made without sideseams, which can be arranged as
before described for combinations. The waist is re-
duced to size when putting them into a waistband.

Section Ten.

Collars. Plate 42.

The collar forms such an important part of every
garment, that it would on no account do to omit it
from any work that aimed at completeness ; and as we
anticipate this volume going into the hands of many
novices, we shall treat of them rather fully ; and if
perchance Ave go into the smaller details too much for
the more experienced, we crave their indulgence on
behalf of the novices.

Stand Collar. Diagram 100.

This is the simplest form of collar possible to put on
any garment, it is illustrated on Figs. 23 and 24, Plate
12. A little examination of the neck will show it must
be longer round the sewing on edge than at the top,
this is provided for by cutting a round sewing on edge ;
and it may be as well to state that the rounder the
sewing to edge the shorter it will be on the top, and
consequently fit the closer. The system for producing
tbese is as follows : — Draw line W D F, and make TV
to F the half size of the neck ; come up from F to V
1 inch as a standard (more if a very close fit round the
top edge is desired). D is midway between F and W.
Draw curve from V to D, and continue on to W. V
to 2 * is drawn at right angles to V D, the height also
to taste. TV 2 is at right angles to TV D, the height
also to taste ; W 2 may be cut on the crease or not, as
fancy may dictate. In making, it is interlined with a
good stiff buckram, and in putting this in it should be
put in rather shorter than the outside, as the position it
occupies on the wearer being a decided circle, renders
it imperative for the outside to be the longer. "We will
not describe the putting on of this collar, as it is done
in the same way as is described below, when dealing of
Diagram 110, so we pass on to deal of

The Panteen Collar. Diagram 101.

This is illustrated on Fig. 21), and may be best de-
scribed as a double stand collar, as it is cut exactly
the same as described above, with a second collar cut
deeper, as illustrated by dotted line below W D F. In
making, the stand collar is put on first, and then the
other is sewn to its top edge by its lining ; the outside
being arranged to come about h inch over the top : the
lining of the stand collar coming over the top of this is
neatly felled in the ordinary way This is a very
popular collar, and has a much smarter appearance than
the plain stand collar, which it resembles so much. It
"orn on almost all garments : Blouses, Bodices,

Jackets, and Ulsters, all have this style of finish at the
neck occasionally.

The Shakespeare Collar. Diagram 102.

Is really only a variety of the Panteen, the fall half
being cut much narrower behind, and with a long
point in the front. It is mostly used on Blouses, &c.,
in place of that illustrated on Diagram 92.

The Medici Collar. Diagram 103.

This is illlustrated on Figs. 13, 41, 42, 43, and
others ; and, as our readers are well aware, it is, at the
time we write, the most popular finish for all garments
at the neck. It is really a stand collar cut with a
hollow sewing to edge, and consequently ; a very full
or long top edge : indeed, just such an effect as would
be produced by taking an ordinary stand collar and
inserting Y's all along the top. The excessive size on
the top edge allows it to be worn much deeper than it
could be in any other way, and consequently this com-
mends it to those who are exposed to inclement
weather ; indeed it has been called the storm collar.
The system for producing this is as follows : — W 1 ) F
at right angles, TV I) the height of collar desired. W to
H H inches, D to F half neck measure minus f inch,
F to Y 3 inches. Draw I) V with a gradual curve, and
outline the top part to taste ; and as these may be
finished square, pointed, or curved, there is consider-
able scope for the designer. The system, as here laid
down, Avill produce a good average style ; if more ful-
ness is desired round the top, increase the quantities
from F to Y and TV to 1^. In making, it is of course
interlined with buckram ; and, as the inside of these
show, the lining is generally of silk or some bright
material, but whatever is used in this way it should be
nicely and neatly finished.

Prussian Collar. Diagram 104.

This is not so much worn now as it was at one time,
but in order to describe all kinds of collars, we give it
a place. The system is as follows : — W D half neck,
D F, 1 inch, draw curve of sewing on edge from TV to
F, TV to V and F to i is the stand, below which, as
from V to I, is the fall. In making, the sewing to
edge must be well stretched in the hollow. In style
this much resembles the Panteen Collar, but is not so
deep in the stand at front, and is cut all in one piece,
though it is nothing unusual to find the under u, 'Jar
arranged with the stand and fall cut separate. Espe-
cially when it is made of very thick material, as it fre-
quently is for Box Coats and Driving Capes, such as &
ladies are now wearing for driving, &c.

^r^ter^r

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

Stand and Fall Collar. Diagram 105.

This is illustrated on many of the Figures, perhaps
Figures 1!) and 20 are as good specimens as any.
Figure 1!) illustrates the S. B. turn, and Figure 20 the
I). B. style. This collar is perhaps the most difficult
of all to the novice ; but as it is a very important one,
we will endeavour to describe all about it in detail, and
begin with the system. Begin by taking the forepart
of the garment it is intended to go on, decide where
you wish it to turn, as at A, Diagram 105 ; mark up
from B to C a trifle less than the depth of stand
desired : having previously decided that the depth of
the stand or the upcome on the neck above the collar
seam should he 1| inches, and the fall If inches : the
fall is that part which turns over from the crease.
Both these quantities are fair average quantities. For
such a collar come up from B to C 1 inch, and draw a
line from A through C to D. Get the length of the
collar by measuring from G to F the width of the back
neck, as from 1 to 2 of Diagram 110, allowing about
h inch extra length. Now come down from D to E
the difference between the stand 1^ and the fall If
viz., ^ an inch. The object of this is to give more
relative length from H to I as the fall gets deeper, a
very necessary arrangement. Draw line from E to C
slightly curved — this is the crease edge on the part
where the collar folds over ; from E to F measure down
the depth of stand desired, in this case 1^ inches, and
connect F to B, and continue on to J, leuting the
collar overlap at J about £ inch. E to H is the fall
behind, and J to I the same in front ; and as this is to
a large extent a matter of taste, no more definite rules
than we have laid down can be given. "With regard to
back of collar from F E to H, it maybe as well to illus-
trate, as a want of proper attention at that part fre-
quently results in a collar standing away behind.

Diagram 106, Plate 42,

Illustrates how this should be arranged. Place the
collar on the back neck, as shown at F G, when F to E
should form a continuation of the back seam, and above
this it should be sprung out, so that when it is turned
over at the crease row E it will have sufficient spring
to go over F. This completes the cutting as far as the
system is concerned, and what we now give is more of

A practical explanation.

We will assume the pattern of the collar has been
cut out in paper, and we now proceed to cut out the
inside collar, as that is really the collar that produces
all the fit and style. This is sometimes made from
different material to the garment, especially when the

cloth is very thick, in such cases a thin Melton of as
nearly the same colour as possible is used, the advan-
tage being that it is thinner, and more easily worked
up ; but we do not advise this except when the cloth
used for the garment is very thick and unyielding. In
cutting the inside collar from the material, cut it on
the bias ; and on no account cut it from the length-
ways of the material ; it is far preferable to join it in
order to get it on the bias, as the joins are out of sight.
It is well understood that cloth on the bias is very
easily stretched or shrunk, and consequently is more
easily manipulated. If there is any face or way of the
wool to the materia], it should run from H E to F,
Diagram 106. Now join the collar at the back, either
by taking a small seam or, if the material will stand it,
by stoating ; this done, the next step is to arrange the
collar canvas.

Diagram 107, Plate 42,

Shows how it should be put in : the cross marks repre-
senting the threads of the canvas. The canvas should
be shrunk by being well wetted and dried without the
use of the iron before cutting, and in cutting it out
sufficient should be left for working in. It should
always be cut in two halves, otherwise it is impossible
to get both ends alike ; the one end having the threads
running in an altogether different direction to the
other when cut whole, and consequently the effects are
seen in the collar when made up. If cut as illustrated
on Diagram 107, the straight thread will run from 1 to
2. Join it by letting the two ends slightly overlap
each other, and we next baste the collar lining and
canvas together. The fall of the collar should lie flat
on the canvas, and then a row of basting put along the
crease row, and then the stand part of the canvas being
on the bias, can be easily stretched to fit the stand of
the collar lining. The first step in the stitching and
padding of a collar is to stitch along the crease as
from 1 to 2.

Diagram 108, Plate 42,

And in doing this the hand should be pulled fairly
tight, so as to draw in that part in accordance with
your customer's requirements ; _ stooping figure with
head forward requires it drawn in more than the nor-
mal, whilst the erect or head backward type require
less. The stitching of the stand comes next, and the
object of this is to make that part of the collar firm
and stiff, to stand up ; this is usually done about four
rows to the inch, and may be either done by hand or
machine. If by hand, it should be a short fore stitch,
so that the collar lining would represent the appear-
ance of Diagram 108, as from 1, 2, 3. For the fall
padding stitch is required : the object of padding

-^jgi^gyPi^c--

"%^|^w-

TO CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS.

fall is to get it to curl in well, which effect is produced
by curling the canvas over the finger, and so getting
it on longer than the collar lining. But as most of our
readers will understand all this, we will not describe it
in further detail, but pass on to

Diagram 109, Plate 42,

Which illustrates the pressing process. The object of
pressing is to mould the collar into the required shape,
as well as to press the sewing that has been put into
the collar. This is best accomplished by the aid of a
thoroughly hot iron, and the collar pressed until it is
quite dry. The shape when this operation is finished
should be somewhat after the outline of Diagram 109,
the stand being represented as turned over : whilst the
effect of the padding will now be seen by the curling
of the fall. Now smooth over the outside collar on the
double, as cloth always shrinks more on the double
than the single. By smoothing we do not mean stretch
it, but merely smooth it, though it is no detriment for
the stand portion to be slightly stretched. Next fit the
collar to the neck, to see the collar ends harmonise with
the turn, as well as to see that it breaks at the right point.
Having corrected the collar in any detail that is neces-
sary, we proceed to cover it. Let us suppose the edges of
our garment is to be bound. Lay the fall of the outside
collar quite flat on the sleeve board, and on this place
the fall of the collar lining, and put a basting thread
along the crease row, and then the fall is basted from
the outside, the collar being slightly bent to allow of
the outside being a trifle the longer, then turn the
collar over and put in a row of stitching about § of an
inch from the crease, this keeps the stand in its place-
The collar is then bound and sewn on. To illustrate
this latter process we give

Diagram 110. Plate 42.

Across the back from 1 to i it should go fair, or of
the two very slightly tight, from 2 to 3 the collars
should be fulled on about ^ an inch, and from 3 to 4
commence by putting it on tight up to the break, and
beyond that fair or plain. Now press open the seam, and
serge the neck, and in front of the break of the collar
canvas and the forepart canvas should be drawn to-
gether edge to edge over the collar seam. It only
remains now to turn in the collar and facing, and draw
the collar seam ; the turn in should be as small as pos-
sible, and exactly on the top of the collar seam, as by
these means it gives a much cleaner and flat appearance
to the front. The only remaining touch is the pressing
off, and our collar is complete. We will now pass on
to deal with

Gape Collars.
Diagrams 111, 112 and 113. Plate 42.

These are collars laid on the garment, and are cut by
the shoulder seams of back and forepart, being placed
together as per dotted lines, when the outline of the
lapel desired is marked ; 3 is the bottom termination
of it, and the sewing to point is marked from 1 by 2 to
3, beyond which a seam is left as illustrated by dot and
dash line ; this is made up independently of the gar-
ment, and then sewn in the position desired from the
back, and turned over, with the result of the shaded
part of 111. Diagram 111 is the S. B. style of turn,
and is often used for ladies' bodices, when the part
outlined by 3. 4, 5 would have the appearance of a
\ est. Our Diagram represents this lapel of velvet, from
which material these are often made.

Diagram 112, Plate 42,

Illustrates
This may

.f4i*ZZ^&fi>:

the D. B. style of lapel with silk facing.

be produced as a Cape collar, as previously
described, though it would more likely be used for
Jackets. There should only be the smallest possible
space between the top of the lapel to the collar end.
The silk facing is brought to the ends of the holes, and
carrie 1 over where the drawing seam of the collar would
be, or even higher ; the aim should be to give the
collar the appearance of being the same width all the
way round as far as possible. The silk mostly used for
this is a bright satin faced fine twill ; and when used
on some of the dull or rough materials now so popular.
has a very stylish appearance. Before quitting this
diagram it may be as well to state that the holes in the
turn should run with the top of the lapel, and in like
manner the silk should follow the outline of the side of
the lapel. Great care should be exercised in putting on
this silk, as being used for ornament only, the effect
would be spoilt if it was not put on artistically. Even-
possible effort should be used to get both sides alike —
a result which is not so easy to achieve as may appear
at first sight.

Diagram 113, Plate 42,

Illustrates a roll collar laid on ; this is cut exactly as
previously described, with the exception of the outline
of the roll, which must of course be run to taste. Fur
collars of this kind are frequently put on Winter
Jackets, and undoubtedly give them a very stylish
appearance. In cutting fur it should be done with a
knife, and the pile or nap arranged to run the wrong
way, which remark also applies to velvet, as it then
presents a much richer appearance. In ordinary col-
lars, the velvet is always cut on the bias, as that is the

only way by which anything like a satisfactory result
can be obtained, but with these cape collars, a rather
wider sweep of material is required than ordinarily, and
as very little working up is needed, it is not of so much
importance.

This we think exhausts the subject of collars, and if
we have gone into detail rather too minutely for some
of our more advanced readers, we can only plead the
importance of the subject, and the general ignorance
that prevails on this topic.

Section Eleven.

Defects and Remedies.

Although this is re illy outside the scope originally
intended for this work, yet we have little doubt a few.
hints on the various defects generally met with, will
prove of service. Let us take first the defects that
arise from

An Incorrect Balance.
Diagram 114. Plate 43.

Too long a front shoulder produces a fold or series
of folds all across the front, as from E to H : the re-
medy is shown by dot and dash line 7, 8 1). Too long
a back balance produces folds all across back, as from
A to B, showing more especially at B. Remedy as per
dotted line 1 2 3. These are good illustrations of too
much length producing horizontal folds.

The reverse of these defects, viz., a too short back
balance, would produce the garment too low at back
neck owing to its fitting close at waist, and thus being
dragged down : whilst, if it was worn unbuttoned, it
would hang away from the waist behind. The easiest
way to remedy is to either pass the back up on the
sidebody, and re-adjust the scye ; or if there is plenty
of length about the waist of the garment, shorten the
front shoulder and deepen the scye, producing extra
relative length of back. A too short front shoulder
produces tightness of scye, fulness at top of sideseam,
creases down front sin wider, <fcc. If you have an inlay
on shoulder, let it down ; if not reverse the suggested
alteration to the back, viz., deepen the scye and shorten
the back.

Creases from blade to the underarm.

Diagram 114, Plate 43,

As illustrated from 0 to 1), are caused by a too straight
sideseam or insufficient receptacle for the blades. The
remedy is illustrated by dotted lines 4. .">, li.

Diagonal creases below waist,

As from K to L, are produced by too much being added
on the one side below the waist, and not enough on the
other, so producing a drag from K to L ; the remedy
is to let oat from 14 to 15, and if necessaiy to reduce
the hips to their original size ; take in from K down-
wards.

Creases at waist. Dia. 114. Plate 43,

As at I, J and (i H have two principal causes. ] .
Linings put in too short. 2. Too tight over the hips.
In either case remedy accordingly. All linings should
be put in very long over the waist — See our remarks
on making up in previous sections. If it is too tight
over the hips the remedy will be to let out as from 10
to 11, and 12 to 13. Each part should be stretched on
the outside as at K, I, J, G, H, and shrink in the
middle. The bones should also be put in very long.

Looseness of front edge.
Diagram 115. Plate 44,

As at L, M, is produced by a too round front edge, as
our readers will have gathered from the preceding
pages : the front edge should be straight, or if cut
round, every bit of round drawn in and worked back
over the breast. If this defect exists in a made up
garment, the best way to alter it as per 1, 2, 3, 4, and
then draw in the front edge to work the fulness back.
In cutting a fresh garment, the remedy is illustrated
by 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.

Looseness at front of scye.
Diagram 116. Plate 44,

Is produced by an insufficient provision for the busts.
One remedy is to alter as per 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and draw in
the front edge, but that is not nearly as good a remedy
as illustrated by fi, 7, 8, !> 10, viz., let out under the
arms, and take in at the dart, but a reference to dia-
gram 116 will, we think, make this quite clear. If
there is any difficulty in pressing away the

Fulness at the top of the darts,

Put a trifle of wadding about the size of the finger
nail, and then try to press it away. If this is not suffi-
cient, the darts have not been taken high enough.
Remedy accordingly.

.js^aiEg^i^v

Greases in shoulder.

These rank amongsc the most troublesome defects,
and like all others may arise from various causes ; such
for instance as a shoulder of the wrong shape, a short
collar, badly put in linings, or canvas, &c. The most
general cause of this defect is an insufficient distance
from A to B, and too great a distance from B to C ; it
arises from what many term a too crooked shoulder.
On the diagram we illustrate two ways of remedying,
one by the dot and dash line, the other by the dotted
line. These alterations apply only when the defect has
been caused by a defective form : but if, as often is
the case, they arise from faulty manipulation, the
remeiy must be found in that direction.

Greases round neck. Dia. 118. Plate 44.

These most frequently arise from the lining being
put in tight. The shoulder being hollow requires the
linings put in very wide over the shoulder, and in many
cases this defect can be remedied by giving more width
to the linings, &c. Some we know apply the remedies
in a negative way, i.e., they narrow the outside, which
practically amounts to the alteration illustrated by the
dotted line at neck.

Loose in back and tight in the front.
Diagram 119. Plate 44.

This is a defect frequently met with by cutters who
take insufficient measures, &c. Every one will at once
agree upon the wide difference there may be in the
form of ladies' figures of the same size chest. One
lady of say 34 breast will have a well developed chest,
and prominent bust ; the other will have no figure at
all ; hence it is evident that to cut the same shape gar-
ment for both must end in failure. When this has
been done, to remedy is a somewhat difficult matter ;
indeed, it would require either new foreparts or a vest
inserted down the fronts, unless very large inlays had
been left all over. The alteration shown on diagram
199 will probably be more useful when cutting a fresh
pattern, though of course the variations shown are the
alterations required in the made up garment also, viz.,
a piece taken off sidebody from A to B, and sidepiece
from C to I), the front being advanced at E F, and so
giving the extra width to the chest needed. Do not
give a round front to this figure, as the busts being
prominent there is the greater depression between them,
and consequently the greater need of shortness down
the centre of front.

We have now dealt with the principal defects usually
met with in body garments., and we have treated of

sleeves in the section devoted to them. In suggesting
remedies we have not laid down any quantities, as such
must be decided on the merits of each case.

-ooo-

Section Twelve.

Miscellaneous.

In getting up a work on Ladies' Tailoring, there are
many little things which, though very useful in them-
selves, cannot be properly classified under any of the
previous sections, so we purpose dealing w ith such in
this section. We take first

Swiss Belts.
Diagram 120. Figures 58 ar.d 59. Plate 45.

These are very popular at the present time, many of
them being made much deeper than our illustration,
but, as far as the cutting is concerned, it is the same.
The ordinary close-fitting Bedice or Jacket pattern is
taken as illustrated by dotted line, and the outline of
the belt is then marked as much, above and below the
waist as may be desired ; care must be taken to avoid
getting it too hollow at top and bottom of the various
parts, or there will be a peak at the seam. The aim
must be to get it to run true when finished, rather than
when cut. These belts are made up with bones under
the various seams as for a Bodice, which will also neces-
sitate the lining being put in extra long. It will be
noticed there is only one dart taken out, which will
be found quite sufficient. Figure 58 shows the front
laced up, but this is not necessary back and front, so
that if desired the front may be cut on the crease, as it
is quite straight, though the introduction of a seam
frequently adds to the effect. The next detail we will
notice is

Dovetail Tacks.
Diagrams 121 and 122. Plate 45.

Dovetail tacks make one of the nicest finishes pos-
sible for box pleats, the ends of pockets, &c., though
perhaps it is open to the objection that it is rather
showy. Very great care is necessary to execute it
nicely, one of the chief points being to keep the threads
very regular. Another very essential feature is that all
three sides shall be exactly equal. See

Diagram 121.

Commence by chalking on the cloth a triangle of the
size you desire the tack to be when finished. This,
although a very simple matter, has been a bit of a

.j2^^g^3ika.

:e*rd&&W'~

THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE

puzzle to more than one of the workmen we have seen
attempt it : and as it is a very essential point to have
this very exact, we will give minute instructions how
to draw it. Draw line B C, and make a mark exactly
in the centre between these two points, and square up
at right angles to it to point A. Having decided on
the size you wish it from B to C, measure across from
B towards A the same amount, and make a mark where
it touches this line, when it will be found C to A will
be the same distance, and thus you will have an
equilateral triangle, i.e., all the sides are equal. Now
proceed to bar these three sides with twist in the same
manner as you would for a bar-tack, i.e., about two or
three times, but be careful to keep the corners very
true ; and having thus barred from A to B, B to C,
and C to A, you are now in a position to proceed with
the tacking proper, which you do by bringing your
needle up as near point A as possible at 1 , and take
twist across and prick needle through at 2 as near point,
C as you can bring it back at 3, also as near C as pos-
sible, and carry it across to 4 up again at 5, and across
to point (!, which will complete the first stitch ; and
you come to your second in the same manner by coming
up at 1 as near the other stitch as you can, across and
down at 2, up at 3, across and down at 6, and so on
till you have finished it, when it will present the
appearance of diagram 2 ; and we think there are few
features which add a more artistic effect to a lady's
Ulster or Jacket than this, especially when applied to
the top of a box pleat, for which part it seems especially
suitable.

How to take the Pattern of an old
Garment.

This is essentially the dressmakers' method, who
makes not the slightest claim to scientific knowled»v :
but it has also to be resorted to by the best of cut-
ters, so that although extremes meet, yet there is a
marked difference in their methods of doing the same
things. The former slavishly follows the run of every
seam, whilst the cutter merely takes the essentials of fit
from the old garment, and then goes to work to infuse
as much art as he possibly can, so as to, as far as pos-
sible, bring out the points of beauty or tone down those
prominent features which would detract from the grace
of the garment on the figure. The exact method they
each use, however, is as follows : — The dressmaker takes
her pattern garment and pins paper on each part, and
by placing it over her knee, she is enabled to get the
exact shape, and then by allowing seams on all sides,
she can thus produce afac simile garment ; audit would
be idle for us to say the method is not successful, as we
have seen some first-class results produced in this way.

Some of them go to the trouble of ripping one side of
the old garment, and tracing with a wheel through
exactly where the seam was sewn ; and having done so,
to remake the garment. That, however, is generally
the result of a want of experience of the other way, and
which is equally good if done carefully. In contrast to
this, however, we will show

The Tailors' Method

As adopted by a well-known West End tailor, as fol-
lows : — Whenever a garment was ordered which he was
unable to measure the lady for, he would send the old
garment to a firm of bust makers to have a dummy
made to fit the bodice, by which means he would be
able to successfully cater for the wants of that par-
ticular customer without a try on, even if she were in
the Antipodes ; as he would, for all practical purposes,
have her duplicate to try on as many times as he could
wish. This method, of course, entails an extra cost
(about 10s. we are informed) on the first order ; but
the after result certainly justifies the outlay, and as the
bust would be always ready for use at any time, the
first cost would be the only one, and would be of use
for every kind of garment. Having once obtained this,
it only remains to follow his usual method ; but all
tailors cannot fellow this plan on account of the
expense, so they usually fit the old bodice on a dummy
of figure as near the same size and shape as possible,
and pad it up to the bodice wherever the figure is lack-
ing. Another method is to lay down the garment so
that each piece lies flat, and take a tracing of it by
means of a pricker in a similar manner to the dress-
makers' method ; but this requires practice to do
it successfully.

We now pass on to another method of cutting, viz.,

Grading. Diagrams 123 to 126. Plate 45.

By this method a pattern which has been found to
fit satisfactorily is used as a starting basis, and which
may be taken as the shaded pattern in the diagrams.
Now draw lines as shown above P, continuing it above
also from 0 to Q, and from R (which is level with the
bottom of the armhole) through S, and from R to T.
Vary for every 2 inch in the total size of Breast at P § in.

» v ij n N5 8 ''

ft J-

m j> n »> 2 »

TT i

?» »J V ?? ^2 "

Whilst in the small sizes it will be as well to shorten
the waist as at 0, V, U, say \ inch for every 2 inches
in the total size of the breast. Turning to

..(ajj^KyiLS,.

The Forepart,

Draw the line from L to K in the trne perpendicular ;
from G which is at the front of scye to H, from I to J,
from K to M, and from I to X, and
Vary for every 2 inch in the total size of breast at L § in.

H l

55 55 J) 55 1J- 2 55

J 1

55 55 55 55 ' 2 »

M 1

55 55 "5 55 ■i,x 2 55

55 55 55 »5 •''2 55 .

The same variation in the length of the waist to be
made as was done with the back. For a sleeve, draw a
line as from A through B to 0, and vary i an inch for
every 2 inches in the total breast ; vary the width at
the elbow about f , and at the cuff } inch for every 2 in.
total breast, whilst the length may be shortened say \
an inch for the small ones at the cuff in addition to the
variation in the length produced by the grading at the
top, which latter will be found quite sufficient for the
large sizes. The collar only requires varying § at the
back at X, Diagram 123, the front at X X being left the
same, a trifle narrower at W being perhaps needed for
the small sizes. This then constitutes the method of
grading, and where it is desirable to reproduce a given
style of pattern with special characteristics, it will be
found a very effective method, and is specially suitable
for manufacturing trades rather than the artist tailor
who caters for the wants of every customer on separate
lines, so as to obtain the highest results, rather than to
produce a set of patterns with the same characteristic
running throughout the whole set.

There are, of course, many other features and details
associated with ladies' tailoring, but which the scope of
this work, large as it is, will not permit of being treated
here. These will be found, from time to time, in our
monthly journal, the bodies' Titilor.

Section Thirteen.

Art in Relation to Ladies' Garments.
Diagrams 128 to 134. Plate 46.

Before concluding, we feel it imperative to lay a few
claims for art before oar readers, as the subject is of
such vast importance. There is so much that might be
written upon it, that the difficulty presents itself, in
deciding what to leave out. and what to give ; but after
a little consideration, we think this will be met so far
by a brief treatment of the subject under the three
headings of

Form, Colour, and Ornamentation,

Which may suffice to awaken an interest in our readers'
minds, and so induce them to study it more deeply from
those works specially devoted to it. Form and colour
have been called the vowels and consonants of the
silent language of creation. It is by their aid that
nature discloses all that is beautiful, lovely, or sublime.
Sometimes she employs them separately, sometimes to-
gether, but however used, there is always one more
dominant than the other, the secondary element merely
adding beauty to the primary, and in this way forms
ornamentation, and consequently ornamentation may
consist of either form or colour, or both, We will take
each of these features in turn, and make a brief survey
of it in its various phases from a tailor's standpoint.
Let us take first

Form.

First of all there is the form of fit, embracing not
only the shape in which the garment is cut, but also
the form that is infused by the tailor's manipnlation —
stretching, shrinking, building up, or toning down, in
all its various phases ; all of which go to make up a
garment of beauty. Then there is the form of style,
the fashion phase of the subject, and this involves a
study, not only the styles of the period, but also the
habits of life, the social position, the age, and the form
of the body in order to arrive at a suitable style of out-
line for the garment. Let us take a brief glance at

The form of fit.

A study of our earlier pages, where we treat of
anatomy somewhat fully, will show the cutter where
the prominence and depressions of the body are to be
found, and if he is in any doubt, let him study his own
body, and he will soon realise the importance of making
provision for these ; this may either be done by cut or
manipulation. Of the matter of cut we have treated in
our section dealing with "The Principles of Fit : " and

-^Igj^^Pi^p-

as long as the seams runs exactly over the prominence
or depression, all that is necessary will he to provide for
them hy suppressions, &c. ; but as soon as the seams
run to the one side or the other, then manipulation will
be necessary, as for instance in the sideseams : if the
back is cut very wide and straight, then the back must
be fulled on to the sidebody ; but if narrow and hollow,
then the sidebody must be fulled on, so that the pocket,
as it were, for the prominence, is located in the right
place. But if the cutter once realises that the human
figure has its points of depression and prominence, and
that the garment he is cutting has to fit that, and not
to lie flat and smooth on a board, then he will realise
the importance of the form of fit.

The form of style

May then claim his attention. Fashion must be con-
sulted, but if he would be an artist tailor he must tone
down fashion follies by the application of art rules. If the'
garment is loose and baggy, vertical lines may be in-
troduced to take away the shortening tendency of the
amplitude of width. This may be either done by the
use of striped material, the position of the seams or the
method of ornamentation. The multiplication of seams
makes the various parts narrower, and so introduces
length, and our readers will And ladies are quite aware
of this phase of the subject, and will expect the cutter
by this means to modify or tone down any defect that
may exist in their figure. Always avoid sharp angles ;
let your lines run with graceful sweeps ; there are
scarcely any sharp angles in the outliue of the human
figure, all are softened down, and instead of a sharp
angle there is a graceful curve : and if we remember
the aims of art are to elevate, to ennoble, to beautify,
we shall realize that in nature we have our copy, and
that it should be our aim to present nature in its most
ideal forms ; and this it will he found can only be done
by the avoidance of angles and the introduction of
curves. Study Hogarth's line of beauty, infuse it in
the outline of your garments, and you will soon be a
master of art of improving the form of style. It will
at once be apparent that it would be out of keeping to
dress an elderly person up as a young one, or a peasant
as a king, so we will leave this phase of the subject, and
hasten on to a s^udy of that all important one

Colour.

Under this heading we must take a brief glance at
(1) the combination of various shades <>r hues, so that
each shall assist the other ; (2) the effects and suitability
of the various colours for different complexions : and
the artistic effect of checks and stripes. Colour

depends on light. In the dark all colours are the same
and we know the single ray of white light is composed
of all colours, and is easily divisable by the prism into
red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, and indigo.
These seven were looked upon by Sir Isaac Newton as
primary colours, or colours of the first importance : but
specialists in this branch, such as Sir David Brewster,
now look upon red, yellow, and blue as the only
primaries, contending that the others ai\: produced by
the mixture of these in some form or other, and that
these three stand out as the elements of colour. White
and black are not colours themselves, but represent
light and darkness, whilst a mixture of the two forms
the neutral tint we call grey. Every colour has its
complementary, this is composed of the remaining por-
tions of the three primaries not used in its formation ;
thus the complementary of red is green ; of yellow,
purple : of blue, orange. The green, purple, and
orange being the mixture of the other two primaries
required to make white light. To produce harmony in
colour or complete satisfaction to the eye, the presence
of all three primaries is required, either alone or a com-
bination : and when so used they each add to the in-
tensity of the other ; thus red appears much redder
when placed on green, and so on. But it is not neces-
sary to combine them just in those forms, half shades
or tertiary colours produce a less glaring effect : they
are produced by a mixture of the three primaries in
different quantities. Citrine, russet, and olive are the
three most important tertiaries. In citrine there is a
predominance of yellow, hence it harmonises well with
purple or violet. In olive there is an extra quantity of
blue, it harmonises well with orange ; and russet, which
is largely composed of red, harmonises well with green, or
proper proportions of olive and citrine. The complemen-
tary arrangement as above described, says " Chevruel,"
is of the first importance. In Diagram 127 the com-
plementary colours are arranged opposite eaoh other,
thus blue and orange, red and green, and so on : the
triangle shows the three primaries, whilst between each
point is illustrated the combination of the primaries
to produce binaries : thus equal portions of yellow and
blue produces green ; a preponderance of yellow gives
a yellowish green, and so on. Combinations of the same
colour on different shades is called the harmony of
analogy, and often produces some very pretty effects,
as in the combination of Oxford and Cambridge blues ;
but when two tones of the same colour are placed side
by side in this way, the dark one will appear darker,
and the light one lighter. When locking at a bright
colour on a black ground, there is a tendency for the
eye to surround it with its complementary, and thus
often make the black suffer. Bet us now examine the
suitabilitv of the different

Colours to suit certain complexions.

For our purpose we will divide the complexions into

two classes, the dark and the fair, or the brunette and
the blonde. As a general rule it will be found reds
and yellows suit dark people best, and blue is the
colour which shows off the fair beauty to the best
advantage. Black, white, and grey suit all people ; a
soft deep black, such as velvet, will set off a blonde ;
whilst a bright black, such as black satin, will set off
the brunette. White, and all those colours which reflect
the most light, have the effect of making people appear
larger than they are ; whilst black, and all colours
which absorb the light, make people look smaller, and
consequently a stout person would appear to best advan-
tage in a black dress of dull material : whilst, on the
other hand, a little woman would be seen to the best
advantage in a white dress made from some brilliant
material. Before quitting this subject we must not
omit to point out

The importance of accessories

And details of a costume : such, for instance, as head
gear, gloves, parasol, shoes, &c, which must not only
ie in harmony with the costume, but combine with it
the complexion, the colour of hair, eyes, &c, to form the
complement of colour. Many a firm has made a lasting
reputation by attention to such details : and if we
would follow in their footsteps, we must attach due
importance to these matters, and study them accordingly.

The effect of pattern.

Colour helps to give expression to form, and probably
the pattern of material is the best illustration we can
give of this : and as different styles of patterns have
different effects, independent of the colours embraced
in their formation, it will be well for us to examine
this phase.

Stripes add length in whatever direction they are
running, they are nearly always popular running ver-
tically, as in Diagram 12*, as in that way they add
height to the figure : they are seldom used horizontally
or running round the figure, as Diagram 12'.t, as in
such a manner they make the figure wider and shorter
(a reference to diagrams will illustrate this, the circles
having the appearance of being slightly oval by elonga-
ting effect of the stripes). They are sometimes worn
on the bias, but they are then apt to give the figure a
one-sided appearance, a twisting corkscrew effect being
produced. They are especially suitable for short stout
people when arranged vertically, though in extreme
cases it is always best to avoid very prominent patterns :
stripe in such a case should be dark and neat.

2ijj&2&KG.

Checks add width to the figure, without increasing
the height : they also show up the slightest difference
in the sides, by cutting the figure up in squares. Pro-
minently checked goods are only suitable for very fine
types of figure, though small and neat checks may be
used by the ordinary run of people without disadvan-
tage, as owing to the distance from the onlookers eye,
the effect of the neat check would be the same as a self
pattern. In all cases of doubt, select quiet neat pat-
terns and on toned colours. A plain twill or bird's-eye
check suits well nigh everyone, as also does black,
whi'e, and grey. This brief glance at colour must
suffice for this work, those who are desirous of studying
it more deeply may get works especially devoted to its
explanation. We now pass on to deal with

Ornament.

The five principles of ornamentation are as follows:
repetition, alternation, symmetry, progression and con-
fusion, and it is to one or other of these primary
sources that all ornamentation may he traced, and in
order to fully illustrate, we give diagrams of the various
modes as applied to braiding designs, considering that
the most suitable for the purpose, though any other
style of trimming may be subjected to the same laws.
Let us briefly glance at

Repetition. Diagram 130. Plate 46.

This is the simplest method of decoration, hut at the
same time it is one of the best. It is the method
nature uses more than any other. Every thing that
appeals to our senses acquires an astonishing power by
repetition, and so with the style of braiding illustrated.
A single eye of braid would be hardly noticable, but the
repetition adds force, and shows at once the design has
all the elements of beauty, viz., unity, order and pro-
portion. Aichitecture, sculpture, painting, music,
literature and poetry, are all embellished by repetition,
indeed, there is no principle which appears more fre-
quently either in the works of man or the works of
nature. Consonance is the secondary element of repe-
tition, by it we mean the repetition of idea rather than
the actual reproduction. Take for instance the flaps
on a Reefer or Lounge : they are made in consonance
with the front, that is, if the front is rounded away,
the flap is done ditto, and so on : this will explain
what we mean hv consonance.

Alternation & Contrast. Dia. 131. Plate 48.

Variety is one of the great laws of the universe, and
alternation is a blending of variety and repetition
This will be °athered from a reference to diagram 131

where the braiding alternates, first forming a crow's
toe and then a simple eye. It is the succession of two
different objects or forms recurring regularly in turn.
There can be no alternation without repetition, but
there can be repetition without alternation. Day and
night are admirable illustrations of this principle.
Contrast is the highest degree of alternation, it gives
character and go to the part it is applied to, and if used
aright, strengthens the unity of the subject, by empha-
sizing its various parts, and bringing much within
range that would otherwise have been lost sight of.

Symmetry and Radiation.

Diagrams 132 and 133. Plate 46.

The human body is symmetrical. When we stand
face to face with a human being, his body appears to
be composed of two halves united in the centre, and
these two parts, without being identical, correspond in
such a manner that the right side, if folded over on the
left, would exactly cover it. This repetition in reverse
is what is called symmetry, though the original mean-
ing of the word signified what we now understand by
proportion. Diagram 132 is a capital illustration of
symmetrical braiding, and is a copy of a military de-
sign for a cuff. Radiation is a form of symmetry in
which all its parts are alike ; that is, suppose a com-
plete circle was formed of designs as illustrated on dia-
gram 133, it could be folded over any way, and would
come exactly on the top of a similar design. Doubtless
our readers will remember how popular this method of
trimming ladies' bodices round the scye was a very
short time since.

Progression and Gradation.
Diagram 134. Plate 46.

Perspective is a highly attractive example of progres-
sion. Progression is a gradual leading up to a point
where a climax is reached, which appears far more
beautiful than it would without the preparation of pro-
gression. Diagram 134 is an example of progression,
and so is diagram 132, the ornament at the base grad-
ually increase till the knot is reached. Progression and
gradation are not quite the same. Progression may be
irregular, gradation is never so. The numbers 1 , 3, 5
7, !), illustrate progression, but they have no resem-
blance to 2, 4, 8, Ml, 32, bhe latter is a regular succes-
sion of changes, the former a series of shades.

Confusion and Complication.

These are not so often used in tailoring, still we do
occasionally see garments braided without any apparent
design — a sort of higgledy-piggledy arrangement, but
in the midst of this disorder, these must be order intro-
duced, if it is to become ornament : thus the outline of
the braiding must be clearly defined, either by a border
limiting its outline. In nature we frequently find a
fine disorder which produces a beautiful effect, but the
charm which nature throws over her works by careless
foliage of trees, the dasies in the field, the stars in the
heavens, cannot be reproduced in costume. Nature's
fields are so wide that we can only take in a portion at
one view. Doubtless if we could take in the whole of
the universe, it is quite possible we should find some
features of balance introducing order in the same way
that we do in the minor works of nature.

Much more might be written on this subject, but
this must suffice. We have briefly touched on the
principal features, and if we have not gone into these
matters as fully as some of our readers would desire,
we must plead the impossibility of treating every phase
of this vast subject of ladies' tailoring within the
limits of one volume.

Conclusion.

Ere we lay aside our pen, we will only state by
way of conclusion, that we have aimed at the pro-
duction of a work that should supply the young cutter
with all he may require to fit him for the post of a
ladies' tailor. Such has been our aim, our readers
will judge whether we have succeeded in carrying out
that aim to a practical issue. We desire to instruct, to
improve, to encourage, and it may be that even in the
defects of our work, others may take courage and
persevere midst adverse circumstances and innumerable
difficulties till a successful issue results.

It is in this frame of mind, acknowledging its defects,
regretting its imperfections, that we say, as we look
upon our finished work, we feel proud of it. We have
done our best ; neither time nor trouble has been
spared : and we have little doubt that the trade will
receive it and use it according to its merits, of which
others will be the best judge, rather than

THE AUTHOR.

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I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I T I I I 1 I I I I I I I

LM l

1892-3.

In response to many enquiries continually reaching us,
from young men desirous of improving their position in
the world of tailoring, we find it desirable to state briefly
in the form of a prospectus, not only the course it is
necessary to pursue, that these young men may attain
the object of their ambition ; but also to impart a little
information and sound advice which may guide them as
to the best way to go about it. Most young men, of an
intelligent and aspiring turn of mind, when they have
acquired a fair knowledge of practical tailoring, look with
longing eyes towards the Shears and the Cutting Board,
and picture to themselves a time when they hope to be
foremen, to wield the larger implements with skill and
dexterity. They are conversant with the history of
many men who started in the humblest circumstances,
who achieved marked success, and became a credit to
their calling. They think of Andrew Johnson, the poor
fatherless lad, who while still in his teens, supported his
mother by his skilful use of the needle and the venerable
goose, and who eventually became President of the
United States — a distinguished statesman as well as
tailor. Well, doubtless young men can say to them-
selves and act on the belief that " what man has done,
man can do ; but to do so, young men must set them-
selves to be masters of their business in all its branches.
They must be like the needle, whatever they undertake
they must go through with it Their first ambition
must be, to master the practical problems in connection
with the business. We say practical problems ; for not a
few men waste both their time and energies on theories and
controversies, which profit neither themselves nor anyone

else. The practical outcome of this stage of the young
man's ambition must be his finding himself a successful
cutter. Coming now more directly to the point, we shall
enquire briefly as to the time

When to learn Cutting.

Circumstances so alter cases, that it would be impos-
sible to give one definite, unqualified reply to this ques-
tion. As we look back over twenty five years, and the
long line of students who have passed through our Cut-
ting Academy more in number doubtless than have
attended any similar Academy in Europe — we have re-
ceived Students of every age, from 15 to 50 years, and of
pretty well every variety of capacity and circums'ances.
But recently we received a youth of 15, son of a master
tailor in the City desirous of getting his son an early
and complete education in the Art of Cutting. He came
for a term of three months, which was afterwards extend-
ed to four months. Being an intelligent and devoted
lad, desirous of acquiring the Art, he not only acquired
the systems with their varied applications to dispropor-
tionate figures and different styles of garment, but also
gave special attention to the daily lectures — the subjects
of which for the ensuing season will be found further on
in this prospectus — and took notes to impress the dif-
ferent points upon his mind. Shortly after leaving the
Academy he secured a situation in a middle class trade,
which he kepr, with credit to himself, and profit to his
employer. This we admit is a somewhat exceptional
case. We relate it to show what can be done.

THE TAILOR AND CUTTER

Une more case occurs to mind, illustrating what we
may tuna " the other end." We recall the form of a
Student, whose hairs were already streaked with silver,
and whose prime was certainly on the wane, if not past.
His history none of the Students knew, except one he
took into his confidence more than the others. He had
been in business, but as the result of an unfortunate
train of circumstances had failed, thus forming a crisis
in his career. The very little capital he could command,
he resolved to invest in a series of perfecting lessons or
brush up at the Tailor and Cutter Academy. He attend-
ed to all the routine of instruction as one who feels he is
playing his last card, and succeeded in fitting himself for
the cutting room of a respectable trade ; so that we could
with confidence recommend him to a good provincial
trade as cutter, where he is now receiving £3 3s. a week,
as well as satisfying his employers. Though we do have
such cases, the majority of our Students are young
men, who have for the most part acquired a knowledge
of practical tailoring — though numbers come who have
not even this acquirement ; and by a longer stay and
dilligent application, not a few of these have distinguish-
ed themselves as cutters.

Do our Students succeed ?

Those who are determined, almost invariably do so.
But as we have no wish to deceive any one — to succeed
as a cutter, a young man must determine to do so. The
advantages for young men acquiring the Cutting in these
days are greater than they ever, were, but then compe-
tition is also greater. So that while success is open to
all, it can only be attained by special effort. When a
determined effort is made by our Students, success
almost invariably follows, as a matter of course. From
the nearest estimate we can make, fully nine-tenths of
our Students get situations and keep them. We select a
few of the recent letters we have received from late Stu-
dents, which we give at the eud of this prospectus ; these
are only specimens out of a very large bundle.

The time of year for Students.

We have two seasons in the year when the bulk of
our Students pass through our Academy. The one sea-
son begins in January and the other in July ; and though
no Student is accepted unless we have a place for him,
still, when it is equally convenient, Students will do well
to come between the seasons. As we keep a regular
staff of competent teachers all the year round, and as
our method of teaching combines both individual and
class teaching, Students can begin their studies at any
time, for as regards the rudiments, each is treated indi-
vidually, and on his own merits, so that his progress is
simply at the rate at which he can acquire tuition.

Where to Learn ?

Well, after the care and attention we have devoted to
the development of our Academy arrangements and course
of study, as set forth in this prospectus, we naturally and
confidently say : Nowhere can the Art of Cutting be>
taught so thoroughly and practically as at the Tailor and
( 'niter Academy. There are several ways of acquiring
the Cutting. Some do so by self-tuition, and in our
" Students Instructor and Guide," full detailed instruc-
tion0 are given as to how this can be done. Easy les-
sons art' given to start with, and the necessary works
are given in their order, for study. This excellent work,
which ought to he in the hand? of every intending Stu-

dent, whether they intend acquiring the Art at our Aca-
demy or not, is supplied at our Office, at the nominal
charge of One Shilling. To acquire the Art by self-
tuition, however, requires more determined application
than the bulk of young men will be found able to sum-
mon. Besides, so many difficulties arise in tuition
which can only be met verbally as they arise. Still, it
is possible to acquire the Art of Cutting by self-tuition.

Intending Students, however, must judge for themselves
as to the course they will pursue in acquiring the Art of
Cutting. Our business in this prospectus is to point out
the advantages accruing from a course of tuition at the
Tailor and Cutter Academy. No effort on our part is re-
quired to bring Students to our Academy, as nearly all
come through the recommendation of old Students. We
only ask intending Students to compare the course of
tuition and advantages of the Tailor and Cutter Academy,
and the success of our Students as compared with other
Cutting Schools.

It is, or ought to be, the merest truism to state, that
mere systems or theoretic teaching cannot make a student
competent for success at the Cutting Board, hence the
very large infusion of the practical element in out
teaching. Defects in fitting, their causes and remedies
are fully discussed and practically illustrated. Our lec-
tures embrace the Art of Trying On, with practical
illustrations. The Use and Abuse of Model Patterns
are treated in a series of lectures. Practical illustrations
are also given in Economy in Cutting — an important
branch of cutting not sufficiently studied. Business
principles and qualifications also form the subjects of
several leetures ; and indeed — as will be seen by the fol-
lowing syllabus — the whole groundwork of an artistic,
scientific, and commercial education, covering the whole
t uloring trade, is fully illustrated and explained.

Our Cutting Rooms are light, airy, and lofty, while
every convenience necessary for health and comfort have
been studied. We will now suppose a Student desirous
of coming to our Academy to acquire the Art of Cutting ;
his first enquiry will be :

Cost of Tuition, Lodging, &c.

Though not in every case, still in many cases, the
first question will be one of finance. Where this is a
consideration, economy must be studied. There is the
railway fare — if the Student is out of London — whatever
that may be. A month's tuition will be five pounds,
which is payable upon entering upon his studies. Then
there is board and lodging. Our accommodation for
Students is in the suburbs. Our secretary and chief
assistant has, with his wife, the charge of our lodging
department. 7/- a week was the old charge for lodging,
but as the railway fare amounts to 2/- a week, going to and
fro to the office, this has been deducted from the lodging, so
that the lodging is 5/-, which with the railway fare is 7/-.
As these are matters which will doubtless interest many
intending students, we may add further, that Students
usually have breakfast and tea at our Students' apart-
ments and Sunday's dinner, and dine on weekdays at
one of the convenient places not far from the office. The
whole can be done, including washing, for £1 a week.
While this provides every necessary, it also involves
economy. It includes nothing for getting about sight-
seeing. For others who go in for a longer period of
tuition, and to whom a pound or two is no very special
object, no difficulty can be experienced in arranging all
such matters.

CUTTING ACADEMY.

Procedure in the Academy.

The first thing when a Student arrives, is to introduce
him to the head teacher. If he knows nothing of mark-
ing or cutting, his first lesson will be in holding and
using the chalk. Then a system of forepart or trou-
sers is drawn out before him and explained. He rubs it
out, and trys to reproduce it, following a draught on
drawing paper on the wall. To the uninitiated this is
perhaps the most difficult part of the course ; but a little
practice in finding points and draughting, and each suc-
ceeding lesson becomes easier and easier. We find
generally the first few days are the most trying. With
a number of Students around him, whose progress is in
all the different stages of development— some draughting
out what appears the most complicated problems with
ease — he begins to fear that he will never master cutting,
and several in the course of our experience, have at this
stage come and told us so. In a day or two more, how-
ever, he begins to know both his fellow Students and
their work more familiarly, and by and bye he becomes
as confidant as any in the room.

A drawing book is given to each Student in which to
insert the systems to the £ or ^ scale, as he masters
them, and it is desirable each Student should provide
himself with a note book ; for besides taking notes of the
lectures, so many hints on all points in cutting are im-
parted in the course of a day, that much will be gained
by the Student making note of these. It is in such
points as these that the difference comes in between a
dilligent Student and one who makes comparatively
small progress. The hours of attendance are such as
not to greatly tax the Student. From 10 to 1 o'clock,
and from 2 to 5 o'clock. Then the occupation is varied,
tbough of course the largest part of it is devoted to
draughting and direct tuition. A conversational lecture is
is usually given in the morning upon some feature in
draughting, when generally some practical illustration
is given of actual work in the cutting room — a gar-
ment being either cut out, tried on or examined, or in
other ways the practical work of the cutting room is
illustrated ; the daily lecture when all (he Students
meet, occupies from 4 to 5 o'clock. One afternoon and
evening a week during the season, after 4 o'clock, is
devoted to social entertainment. The Students form
themselves into a debating society, when some question,
more or less directly connected with the trade is dis-
cussed*, Mr. Williamson usually presiding. Tea is aft< r-
wards provided, and the evening generally finishes with
a lantern slide entertainment, Mr. Williamson having
invented a process by which full size figures are thrown
upon the screen to illustrate the different styles of gar-
ments. These social evenings have introduced quite a
new tone in our Academy, the Students being much
more social and friendly : and as it pretty well goes with-
out saying, that all Students who come to our Academy,
are sober, steady and respectable, the friendship formed
with each other, and the little outings arranged, keep
them from the many temptations to be found in Lon-
don. Saturday afternoon excursions, up or down the
river, are frequently arranged for during the season.
Many letters we receive from old Students record pleas-

ing memories of the happy days they spent at our
Academy, and of the home feeling and comfort expe-
rienced at the Students' apartments.

The following is our New Syllabus of the Afternoon
Lectures to be delivered during the ensuing season.
These are not necessarily delivered in rotation, the
teachers using their discretion as to the lectures to te
delivered each week The New List of Subjects for the
week's Lecture is hung up in the Cutting Rooms every
Monday morning. The List of Garments taught will be
found in the complete Syllabus, sent on receipt of stamp
for postage.

Special Cases.

In addition to the ordinary tuition for a term varying
from one month upwards, we receive a large number of
cutters in daily practice, who require a little coaching up
in special garments. One wants to know how to cut
military trousers, another has a difficulty with his coats,
a third comes up to acquire the Art of Cutting Ladies'
Garments ; but no matter what they wish to acquire, we
are prepared to coach them up. Many a young man
gets a week, or some on'y a day, off, for an excursion
trip, and instead of spending it exclusively in holiday, he
comes to the Tailor and Cutter Office, and goes back to
his business with fresh ideas and new energy. The
charge for this is one day 1 guinea, three days H guineas,
one week 2 guineas, or a fornight 3 guineas.

Do we receive Lady Students ?

Yes ! wre have a room specially set apart for our Lady
Students, as wall be seen by tho Special Prospectus for
Lady Students which follows.

Cutters wishing a Diploma.

Cutters desirous of being examined with the view of
gaining a Diploma, are admitted on the usual terms for
special cases, viz., 3 days, 1\ guineas ; they may obtain
a specimen list of questions they will have to answer,
by forwarding a stamp to the Tailor ami Cutter Office.
In addition to writing answers to similar questions (not
the ones sent) they will undergo a personal examination
and be required to measure for a suit and cut it out, as
well as any ether special task the examiners may deem
necessary, so as to thoroughly test their ability, and the
value of the Diploma will be according to the result of
the examination.

It is not necessary the cutter desirous of being ex-
amined should cut by the Tailor and Cutter Systems.
Any system that produces a satisfactory result is all
that is needed.

Concessions to Students.

Students coming for one month and upwards have
the following concession.? made to them.

(a) The right to purchase any of our published
works at luilt price, with the exception of the bouna
volume of the Tailor and (hitter and the Ladies1 Tai-
lor, which are supplied at a discount of 9-5 per cent.

THE FEES ARE AS FOLLOWS:
Three Months £12 10s.; Two Months, £10 Six Weeks, £7 10s.: and One Month, £5.

THE TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY.

■ — ■♦-

Cutting by Model Patterns.

Lecture 1. Introduction. — What is a Model Pat-
tern ? How to use thein, &c, &c.

Lecture 2. Disproportion. — Stooping, Erect, Long
and Short Necks, Long and Short Bodies. Special
features to be observed, &c.

Lecture 3. Disproportion. — Corpulency, Small
Waists, Humpbacks, Pigeon Breasts, Deformities
generally.

Lecture 4. Style. — Frock, Dress, and Morning Coats.

Lecture 5. Style.— Lounges, Reefers and Parrol
Jackets.

Lecture 6. Style. — Overcoats, Capes, Hoods, Inver-
ness Capes, Scarborough, the Raglan Cloak, &c

Lecture 7. Liveries. — General features, the Coach-
man's Frock, Footman's Coatee, the Groom's Frock,
Page's Jacket, &c.

Lecture 8. Liveries. — Overcoats for all classess. Full
Dress Liveries, &c.

Lecture 9. Military Garments. — The Tunic, the
Patrol Jacket, the Doublet, the Shell Jacket, the
Overcoat.

Lecture 10. Naval Garments. — The Jack Ta^ the
Cadet, Midshipmans' Jacket, Captain's Full Dress
Coat, &c, &c.

Lecture 11. Clerical Garments. — Frock, Cassock,
Cassock Vest, Full Dress Coat, &c, &c.

Lecture 12. Hosiery. — Dressing Gowns, Shirts, Py-
jamas, &c, &c.

Lecture 13. Vests in all their varieties.

This completes the series of Lectures on Cutting by
Model Patterns.

Practical Cutting and Subjects connected
with the Cutting Room.

Lecture 14.— The principles of Trouser Cutting.

Lecture 15. — The Art of Trying-on.

Lecture 16.— The principles of Coat Cutting.

Lecture 17.- — Straightness and Crookedness, what it is
and what it is not.

Lecture 18. — Art in Relation to Tailoring, Form, &c.

Lecture 19. — ditto. Colour.

Lecture 20. — ditto. Ornament.

Lecture 21 .-- Graduated Tapes, their Use and Abuse.

Lecture 22. —How to Design and Make a Costume
Skirt.

Lecture 23. — Collars and Lapels in all their varieties.

Lecture 24. — Machines used by Tailors.

Lecture 25, — Anatomy as a basis to formulate Systems.

Lecture 26. — Fidgetty and Unreasonable Custom-
ers, a Record of Cutting Room Experience.

Lecture 27. — Alterations, their causes, how to avoid
and how to cure them.

Lecture 28. — Do. do. do.

Lecture 29. — Do. do. do.

Lecture 30. — Do. do. do.

All the above are fully illustrated liy specially prepared.
Diagrams and Figures, and they each deal directly
with practical cutting. By way of variety, one or
two of the following are given weekly :

Lecture 31 , — -The Management of Workmen,

Lecture 32. — The ninth part of a Man.

Lecture 33. — The Routine of the Cutting Room.

Lecture 34. — The Duties of a Trimmer.

Lecture 85. — The greatest evils in the Trade.

Lecture 36. — The Ideal Cutter or Cutter of the Future.

Lecture 37. — The Cutter's Duty.

Lecture 38. — Life, Its Aims, Secrets of Success,
Habits, Duties and Privileges.

Lecture 39. — Success in Life, Health, Personal Hap-
piness, Usefulness.

Lecture 40. — Will it Pay ? Features of Profit and
Loss.

Lecture 41. — Fiction and Fact, or the False and the
True.

Lecture 42. — Blunders, their Causes, How to Avoid
them, &c.

Lecture 43. — Now and Then, or the Past, the Present
and the Future.

Business Lectures.

Lecture 44. Principles of Business.— Capital, Ex-
pense, Rise and fall in proportion to the amount of
turnover, Profits reckoned on the returns instead of
the original outlay.

Lecture 45. Opening- a New Business. — Various
methods pursued, Buying an old connection, Usual
terms, Different classes of tailoring to be studied.

Lecture 46. How to get Customers. — Advertisements
— useful and useless, Travellers developing business, &c

Lecture 47. Shop Window Dressing. — Light, Ar-
rangement of colours and materials, How to design a
display, Specialities, &c.

Lecture 48. Money". — Fluctuation in its value, Why is
gold the standard, Money in circulation simply as
token.

Lecture 49. Credit. — Its use and abuse, Definitions of
credit, A means of increasing business, prices of goods
affected more by credit than by money, Bills of ex-
change, promissory notes.

Lecture 50. Bookkeeping for Tailors. — Garment
ticket books, Day book, Ledger, Wages book.

Lecture 51. Failures in Business. — Injudicious buy-
ing, Fluctuations in prices, Extravagance, Carelessness.

Lecture 52. Economy in Business. — System, Buying,
Saving, Discounts, &c.

Lecture 53. Waste. — Competition, Overstocking the
market.

Lecture 54. Success in Business. — Its dependance on
method and adaptation to meet the necessities of the
times.

Lecture 55. Buying and Selling. — Time to buy,
dated forward, Despatching patterns to customers, Bad
debts, &c.

Lecture 56. "Carlyle " on " Tailors and Tailoring."

Lecture 57. Health. — The effects of woollen, cotton,
and linen, Effects of different colours, Effects of dyes
on various materials.

Subjects for Debate.

The following is a List of Debatable Subjects, one of
which is introduced about once a week.

Is Trying-on a necessity ?

Is a time log practicable for Town and village alike ?

Is the eight hours working day applicable to the Tai
loring Trade ?

Block Pattern or System Cutting, which is the most
Successful in Practice ?

Should all workmen be paid alike ?

Does out or indoor working advance the best interests
of the Tailoring Trade ?

Is it necessary for a cutter to be a practical tailor ?

Is it right for an employee to carry en the same kird
of business as his employer during his spare hours ?

Others will be introduced during the season,

*?>

.,^^^^^»fe^

•w

A Sketch of Our Cutting Room.

BY A RECENT STUDENT.

I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I ! I I I

I 1 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I

I I I I I I I I I I I '

In issuing the New Prospectus of our Cutting Academy, our aim is to convey as
vividly as possible to intending Students, what it is they enter upon and seek to
accomplish, what we undertake to do for our Students, together with the daily routine
of our Academy. A recent Student of a literary turn of mind, after completing his
course of tuition, wrote out a little history of his observations and experience while at
our Academy ; and as this was shown to us just as we were on the eve of drawing up a
New Prospectus, we thought we could not do better than allow our late Student's record
to accompany it, for the enlightenment of young men and others who are anticipating

a Course of Lessons at our Office.

HOW I BECAME A CUTTER.

BY A MASTER TAILOR'S SON.

We, that is, my father, mother, and myself, were
sitting round the fire one evening in December last year,
when the conversation turned upon my future ; and as
I look back on that family group in my father's home, I
cannot help thinking that this had formed the subject
of mauy conversations between my parents, when I had
little thought on the matter.

"John," said my father, "it seems to me the time
has arrived when you must strike out for yourself ; you
have had as good a training in the practical part of the
tailoring business, as I can give you, and I think it will
be well for you now to go into the scientific, and so com-
plete your education as a tailor."

This took me somewhat by surprise. I had often
thought of and very much desired to become a Cutter ;
I had studied the trade literature, and my imagination
and ambition had even painted a scene, where I was the
leading cutter in a high class tailoring trade ; and now
that my father suggested the first step in this direction,
I felt a flush come over my face, as I replied, " Very
good, father, I shall always try to do as you wish me ;
but I don't quite understand what you mean." " How
should you like to spend three months at the Tailor and
Cutter Academy ?" asked my father; bringing visions
to my mind of numbers of young men like myself, draft-
ing, cutting out, attending lectures, and so forth, so that
I was eager and ready. In an instant my enthusiasm
was aroused, and I replied, " Oh ! that would be splendid
father, I should like it immensely." After a little while

A SKETCH OF OUE CUTTING ROOM.

it was decided I should write for a prospectus, calculate
what would be the probable cost, and make the neces-
sary arrangements £»r me to start with the new year.
How eagerly I watched for the postmen to bring that
prospectus, how carefully I read every line, how I
longed for the time to come when I should bid adieu to
my native town and begin my stay in the great city.

Arrangements were finally made, and at last I bade
adieu to my mother, father, and sisters, and on Monday,
January 5th, 1891, I started for the Tailors' School of
Art, there to take up my abode for a three months'
term. How shall I describe my feelings as the train
steamed out of the station ; there was my mother with
a whole world of yearning anxiety for her boy ; and I
am bound to confess to a slight choking sensation as I
watched the familiar places where my boyhood days
had been spent, fade away one by one. I felt that at
last I was starting alone to fight the battle of life. Many
were the vague fears that entered my head. Should I
like it after all ? Should I miss my home ? Should I
feel very lonely ? These and a whole host of other
things passed through my mind, as the train steamed
away past village and town and hamlet, till at last it
reached the great city, and I found myself on the plat-
form of Euston Station, looking out for my luggage.
" Take a cab and go straight to the Tailor and Cutter
Office," had been my father's instructions, and this I at
once proceeded to do. This journey was soon over, and
alighting at the Tailor and Cutter Office, I found a fine,
massive building, standing out in marked distinction to
the surroundings. Entering, I enquired for Mr. Wil-
liamson, and after a little while was ushered into that
gentleman's presence. He greeted me cordially, and
entered into a little conversation with me as to what
were my aims and what I hoped to do. I explained this
to him as far as possible ; gave him my father's cheque
for £12 10s., the amount charged for three months'
tuition, received my receipt, and was then introduced to
the head teacher. He met me with a cordial shake of
the hand, and I soon began to feel a little at home ; he
conducted me into the cutting room, showed me where
to hang my coat and hat, arraDged for my luggage to be
put in a place of safety, and then I started on

My First Lesson.

" We generally start on trousers," said my teacher,
" they are the garment easiest learnt, having the fewest
parts to remember." Then he showed me how to
measure, taking first the leg, then the side, waist, seat,
knee, and bottom. I remember the importance he
attached to correct measurement, and how very neces-
sary it was to do my best to grasp my customer's wishes.
"For instance," said he, "if a customer tells you he
wants an easy-fitting pair of trousers, that he can stoop
about in, you must note that, and when cutting, make
arrangements accordingly, or you will get them back for
alteration. Trousers that fit close and smart will give
one gent every satisfaction but will be a misfit altogether
for another ; so that whilst we believe the system we
adopt to be the very best known, yet you must look
upon it as merely a means to an end, and that end is to
produce a garment to meet your customer's wishes. But
of this more presently," he said ; and then proceeded to
show me the topsides of a pair of close-fitting trousers,
explaining point by point as he proceeded ; and then,
going over it again, he left me to draw the various
points, curves or angles by myself. " Now," said he,
"here is a tape, square, chalk, and curved stick; and as
you get into difficulties I shall be pleased to help you ;"
and so in this kindly way I was encouraged at the start.

I succeeded beyond my expectations, and was soon
passed on to the undersides, and ere the day had passed
away, I had grasped the trousers system, and drafted
it out to different measures, having taken the mea-
sures of a fellow student, and completed the whole
routine in a practical manner. Ere the day was over,
I had begun to feel at home ; the kindly manner of the
teachers, and the evident sociability of the older Stu-

dents, did much to take away the strange surroundings :
and as day after day passed away

The Cutting Rooms

Became quite familiar, and as I write this many a mile
away from them, I can picture the whole thing distinctly.
There are two large rooms, and one smaller one, the
latter being reserved for Lady Students, so I need not
describe that. The large rooms are arranged with three
long tables in each ; each table being capable of accom-
modating 6 or 8 Students, and several times during my
stay they were all in use. The number of young men
who passed through the Academy astonished me. A
fine lot of young fellows they were too : studious, steady,
intelligent, and respectable as you could wish for, and
be it said to the credit of the Tailor and Cutter manage-
ment, I did not hear one word of complaint during the
whole of my stay ; but on the contrary astfar as I know,
every body was satisfied, and the majori y entered in a
book, written testimony to that effect ere they left.
But this is by the way. To return to the rooms, they
are well lighted and ventilated ; each room has five
large windows, there is a lavatory fitted up for the
Student's use, and the sanitary arrangements are under
the supervision of an engineer kept on the premises to
look after such matters. Everything was done to make
the rooms comfortable and healthy.

The Lectures

Are usually given in the upper room, and although
chairs are provided for the Students on these occasions,
they mostly prefer to sit on the table facing the
Lecturer. The lectures during my stay were very
varied, the practical, scientific, artistic and business
phases of tailoring being all thoroughly dealt with,
whilst other subjects which offered two sides were
clearly brought out by the two principal teachers in the
debates, and very frequently the Students would follow
them up with great zest. W ell I remember the debate :
" Is it necessary for a cutter to be a practical tailor in
order to produce the best results ? " How the various
Students discussed the matter with great eagerness,
each advocating the side which agreed with their own
experience. The lectures were to my mind one of the
most instructive methods of teaching adopted at the
Academy ; they were fully illustrated by full size Dia-
grams and Charts — which must have taken a very long
time to prepare, for many of them are beautifully ex-
ecuted. As I look over my note book, which was my
constant companion, I find a very large portion of it
filled with notes of the various lectures ; and now that
I am in actual practice I find them of the greatest use
to me when in a difficulty. The Lectures and Debates
were often thoroughly talked over at

The Students' Home,

Where we exercised the duties of judge and jury on the
lecture and lecturer. Happy days they were ; how
often I look back upon them now, and wish to live them
over again. On leaving the Academy the first evening,
I was escorted by a fellow-student to Waterloo, which is
about ten minutes' walk from the office, from where we
took train to Clapham Junction, and there soon found
myself in a most comfortable home, which belongs to
the Academy, where the Students' comforts are studied
in every particular, and the charges are strictly mode-
rate. I found great advantage from being associated
with the other Students after business hours ; they were
able to help me in many little difficulties with home
work, whilst the library in the Students' sitting room
was a great advantage. I have already referred to

My Fellow-Students,

But as I write about the lodging there are many faces
which I shall always remember. In one or two cases I
have formed friendships which will last possibly through

A SKETCH OF OUR CUTTING ROOM.

life, and I believe others did the same. This was
only natural in such a number of young men all having
the same object in view, especially when their views on
religious, social, or political subjects were much in com-
mon. There were very few of them who went in for
politics, but many a discussion took place on religion
and temperance ; and very instructive they frequently
were, too, carried on as they usually were in the best of
humours whilst we were busy with our drawing books,
drafting models, &c. Young men from all parts of
Great Britain were there, Welshmen, Irishmen, Scotch-
men, Yorkshiremen ; and not only from our own little
island, but there was a Canadian, an American, a New
Zealander, an Australian ; and I heard from the secre-
tary it was no unusual occurrence for them to have 6 or
7 different nationalities represented there at the same
time, Russians, Frenchmen, Germans, Swedes and Jews
often forming part of the company. Sometimes they
could speak English, sometimes they could not and it
was astonishing how well they could be taught without
the use of the tongue. This reminds me that whilst I
was there, we had a deaf and dumb fellow student ; and
he really got on well, for though only there for a month,
yet he thoroughly mastered Coats, Vests, and Trousers,
and successfully passed his examination. I soon felt at
home with them all, for they were jolly fellows and

At the end of a month

I began to feel myself an old stager, for I had seen
many come and go in that time. Some cutters in
actual practice would get a week's holiday, and come up
to learn a little about their weak points ; with some it
was breeches, with others it was ladies', and I often
envied the speed with which they acquired the know-
ledge in their special branch they had come up to study.
I had, as I have stated, come for three months, and the
plan followed with long term Students, is to thoroughly
ground them in each garment as they proceed, so that I
had not advanced very far at this time, though there
is many a man holding a cutter's position, that knows
no more than I did at that time, for I had thoroughly
mastered the cutting of Trousers, Breeches, Gaiters,
• ests, Lounges, Morning and Frock Coats, Overcoats,
dec., and had begun the study of disproportion. I knew
how to provide for stooping and erect figures, long and
short necks, and was dealing with hump backs, &c, when

A practical Illustration

Was given on this very subject. One of the Students
consented to have his body made up by padding, &c,
to represent a very bad case of disproportion ; one of
the teachers being deputed to do this, and the form he
produced, was such that I think I should shudder to see
enter my cutting room now. I will try to describe it ;
There was a large hump on the right side, with a corres-
ponding depression on the left, the right shoulder was at
least 2 inches higher than the left, and though the chest
was 36 yet the measure across was only 6f , that is 13|
from arm to arm. The senior teacher then commenced
operations. He took the measures, cat the pattern,
marked it on the cloth, cut it out, basted it up, all the
while explaining every detail as he proceeded and
answering the hundred and one questions asked him as
he went on. Sometimes I wondered at the patience
and good humour shown by the teachers, and I can only
say they are indeed men well qualified for their posi-
tion. The one special note I made on the subject of
deformities was : " Don't try to exactly fit, but to hide
the deformity." I have many others, but this was the
special teaching on that occasion, and I must say the
result of the try on was a great success. About this
time there were several leaving, their terms of tuition
having expired, and they asked to be taken over the
premises, so I joined them in their

Tour of Inspection.

We started at the basement, and as we got to this we
could see the engine puffing away, and very quickly we
were amidst the noise and din of four large printing
machines, all busy at work. One was printing Fashion
Plates, another was printing a portion of a New Work
in course of prepartion, and the other two were occupied
with the Tailor aud Cutter and the Ladies' Tailor. In
the corner of one of the large printing rooms was the
guilotine, which cuts and trims the edges of the journals,
&c, before they are sent out. After watching with
interest the various processes in operation in the base-
ment, we came up to the ground floor ; here the Clerk's
Office is situated, together with the Secretary's Room, a
stock room and the shop. Around the walls of the lat-
ter large cupboards are fitted up, these are fitted with
pigeon-holes, which are fitted with the various kinds of
Model Patterns supplied. In a glass case were displayed
samples of Shears, Scissors, Squares, &c, and in another
the various works on cutting published by the company.
On the walls were hung specimens of Fashion Plates,
including Military, Naval and Livery Plates ; and I
could not help thinking how nicely they would show off
the walls of any cutting room. We then ascended to
the Cutting Rooms on the first floor, which I have
already described ; by the side of this is placed the
Editor's Room, which forms a centre of the establish-
ment, and from whence instructions for each depart-
ment emanate. Above this is a room I hear the com-
pany are specially fitting up for Ladies, in addition to a
small room on the first floor. By the side of this is
another Stock Room, where piles of Books, Plates, Trou-
ser Stretchers, &c, were to be seen. Back we came
through the Lavatory, into the upstairs Cutting Room,
and then at the back of this we were shown the Model
Pattern Cutting Room, where the world-famed Models
are ranged round the walls, and from which copies are
cut by the score. It was very interesting to see the
knife at work in the hands of a skilled cutter, and
what struck me. most was the accuracy and care with
which every detail was attended to, in order to make
these model patterns models indeed. On the third and
top floor we found the compositors busy with their formes
and type. There we were shown the engraved blocks
of diagrams, the method by which they were produced
was explained, and so on till a good quarter of an hour
had been spent in a most instructive manner. To the
right of the compositors room we were ushered into the
folding room, where we found four young ladies, busy
at work, folding the journals ; how nimbly their hands
manipulated the sheets, how quickly and accurately it
was all done ; truly practice makes perfect.

Ere descending the stairs we were shown the lift, by
which all the heavy forms of type, &c, are transported
from the compositors to the printers. This brought our
tour of inspection to a close, a tour that demonstrated
to me how necessary co-operative effort was to produce
anything of benefit to the world at large, and I think
there are few indeed but will readily acknowledge the
Tailor and Cutter is a benefit to the tailoring community
in particular, and through them to the world generally.
I now began to think of serious

Preparation for my Examination.

I was supplied with a list of questions which seemed
to me to embrace every phase of tailoring— practical,
scientific, and artistic. I was told to study them all, to
be capable of answering every one, though I should only
get a small selection from them to answer in my exami-
nation. Having got this list, I cut the sheets up so that
each question was separate, and these I pasted in a
twopenny exercise book, allowing some five or six lines
to write my answer in. Having done this, I was ready
to start. There is no key book from which to crib the
answers from ; each has to be carefully studied out ;
still I did not find them particularly difficult, though
some of them were what I should call " tricky ques-

A SKETCH OF OUR CUTTING ROOM.

tions," and evidently put with the object of making the
student ihink. I made rapid progress with these, for I
always found the teachers both ready and willing to
fully explain any question I asked then* about, though
of course it was impossible for them to go through all
the questions in this way. Occasionally the lecture
would deal with the examination papers ; two I remem-
ber especially : the one was " The features which con-
tribute most towards success in a cutter's career," and
the other was " The difficulties a cutter has to over-
come." Between the examination papers and

The Drawing Book,

My evenings were fully occupied, and anyone who comes
to the Tailor and Cutter Office as a Student must make
up his mind for hard work if he wishes to succeed. I
am very proud of my drawing book, and many a time
have I shown it to my tailoring friends since I left the
Academy, and as it contains diagrams of almost every
kind of ladies' and gents' garment, all done with my
own hands, it gives some idea of the comprehensive
nature of the teaching given at the Tailor and Cutter
Office. I find it most valuable as a book of reference,
and I do not think money would tempt me to part with
this practical memento of the many happy hours I spent
at 93, Drury Lane.

My time flew by, and I began to look hopefully for
the end, not that I wanted it to come, but rather because
I felt the progress I had made was genuine, and such as
would enable me to take my stand behind the cutting
board with confidence. I kept a weekly record of

My Expenses,

And I find the average to be 23/6 :;:, but this did not
include anything for sight-seeing, for I carefully ab-
stained from this, as my father had promised me plenty
of this sort of thing at the end of my term, providing I
passed successfully ; so I concentrated all my energies
on this end, though I took many an interesting walk to
Battersea Park or on Clapham Common, or even
occasionally we went as far as Hyde Park, to feast our
eyes on the beauties of nature and the beauties of high-
class tailoring. My expenses consisted of lodging 5/-,
travelling 2/6, washing 1/-, attendance 6d., and food, &c,
14/6. Many reduced the latter amount considerably,
but my parents instructed me to live comfortably but
not luxuriously, and this was the advice I carried out,
and I merely give these items as a guide to those who
may be placed in similar conditions to myself. As the
day of my

* Many Students make 20/- a week meet their expenses.

Examination

Drew near I began to feel very nervous. I had been
working so hard that I almost dreaded being put to the
test ; for I had learnt enough to show me how much
there was I did not know ; and it was this that made
me nervous; and as I was ushered into the Editor's
Room and took my seat at the examination table, my
heart was thumping away at a very high rate, and my
whole frame was trembling ; but this very soon passed
away, for when I opened the sealed packet of questions
and made a start, I found that my heart was so full
of my subject that I forgot all else ; and the only
thing I felt was a sincere desire to do the very best I
could, and to answer the various questions in the fullest
manner.

It was a heavy day's work, but as the afternoon wore
away I began to feel cheerful : a something told me I
should pass successfully ; and when, at 4.30 p.m., I
handed my papers in to the senior teacher, I was very
sanguine. I was not disappointed either, for though I
did not take the very highest award ever given, yet I
took the next ; and when it is to be remembered I am
only a young man, I think I ought to feel very proud,
as indeed I do, of my first-class diploma. So the time
at last came for me" to say my

Farewell.

And as I did so I felt I was parting with more than
teachers, they were friends, ever ready to help or advise
in every possible way ; and I felt I should be neglecting
my duty if I did not give my tribute to the patience
and care shown me, as well as to express my apprecia-
tion of the very excellent systems taught ; systems
which after I have put them to a thorough test during
my several month's active practice, I feel it would be
difficult to improve. Further, I would add my testi-
mony to the excellence of the lodgings, for whilst there,
I felt quite at home, everything was done pleasantly
and cheerfully, and I am certain that much of my suc-
cess was due to the pleasant social surroundings I had
in the evenings ; so that in conclusion I would recom-
mend every Student to stay there, as they will find
everything is respectable, clean, and comfortable ; at
least so I found them.

These are the general impressions I formed of the Tai-
lor and Cutter Academy during my three month's stay,
and I shall do all that lies in my power, to recommend
anyone aspiring to become a cutter, to follow the course
I followed, feeling assured he will be equally as satisfied
as I am.

Yours fraternally,

A MASTER TAILOR'S SON.

With the view of stimulating our Students to do their very best whilst at the Academy we have much pleasure

in announcing

A, Special Prize °\ralwe £io,

To be competed for between the dates of July 1st to October 31st, 1892.

A WHEELER & WILSONS TAILORS' SEWING MACHINE,

of the latest design, with all improvements, will be

AWARDED TO THE MOST SUCCESSFUL STUDENT,

Who completes not less than one month's tuition between the above dates. Marks will be awarded day by day in

accordance with the progress made and at the close of his term of tuition a final examination will be made ;

this together with the Teachers' observations will decide the award, which will be announced early

in November in the Tailor and Cutter.

©pes t@ all 8tu4eafs« If© ©^tra fees*

LADIES' TAEL01I

How Ladies may acquire

M if lilting E|d 1eH||

The Course of Tuition for Lady Students at the Tailor and Gutter Gutting Academy,

93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

The season just passed has marked a new era in our Cutting Academy. One
room has usually been set apart for Lady Students, but the increase in their numbers
this year has been so marked as to render special provision for their accommodation
necessary. It may interest some of our patrons, and at the same time form a reply
to many enquiries we are constantly receiving, if we give a brief outline of our course
of procedure generally, in our Lady Students' department. This is not rigorously
followed, as the individual capacities and requirements of each Student have to be
studied, so as to give to each, just that instruction which will be of the most service
to them. When we state that our Students come from all ranks and classes — the
professional dressmaker, the lady philanthropist who desires the knowledge so that
she may help others to gain a living, the lady in private life who wishes to design
and make her own garments, the lady teacher who comes here to qualify herself for
the position of teacher to the various Technical Schools now being opened by the
County Council; as our Lady Students embrace all these, and as each have different
capacities to begin with, and different ideals to realise, each needs individual treatment.

THE FIRST LESSON

Initiates our Lady Students into the mysteries of the use of the chalk, the handling
the square, tape, &c, and then we proceed with skirts in their different varieties. As
many of the Students desire to work out their lessons practically, they procure some
material and make up the various garments as they proceed, doing the sewing at
home, and bringing the garment with them at the Academy for inspection and advice;
»8 to the correctness of their progress.

Skirt cutting, making, and draping are soon mastered, and then they pass on
to the more difficult task of bodice and jacket cutting. This needs more application
and patience to master than the skirt ; but in the course of one lesson the principles
are grasped, and in most cases, by the end of the second or third day, the bodice and
jacket can be drafted to any measures with proficiency and ease. Then the Lady
Student, if she so desires, proceeds to make up a bodice or jacket, cut by herself, and
as she proceeds, all

THE MYSTERIES OF MANIPULATION

Are explained to her : the making and fitting up, sewing the scams, the putting in the
bone casing, the canvas, the pressing, the stretching and shrinking, the parts to be
fulled on or held tight, sleeve and collar making, and all the great and small technical
details of Ladies' Practical Tailoring are fully and minutely explained as she proceeds,
and when the garment is got into a satisfactory state, then follows :

A PRACTICAL LESSON IN FITTING,

Detailing the points that require to be specially noticed, the methods to follow, the
mode of making alterations explained, the importance of studying customers' views
emphasized, the difference of material, and then, as occasion may offer, the Instructor
replies to any queries that may be put by the Lady Students, which occur to them
either in connection with the lessons in Cutting, or the making or manipulating of the
garments they cut, each having their own difficulties and for which they each seek a
remedy.

The above is the first page of our New Prospectus of Terms and Arrangements in connection with the
lAddies' Branch of our Cutting Academy — which will be 6ent to any address on receipt of stamp for postage.

THE TAILORS METHOD

Of making up a garment is so widely different to that followed by the dressmaker, that
many of the Students have said it has been one series of surprises to them, to see one
detail after another worked out in such a vastly different Way to what they have been
accustomed ; methods which at once assert their superiority so conclusively, that they
ask themselves however they could have overlooked it ; and there is no longer any
wonder in their minds, how it is the tailor produces such vastly superior results to the
dressmakers. This is indeed one of the special and important features in our Academy
for Lady Students, that they may acquire the practical part, or making up of garments
by tailor methods as well as the Cutting. Our Lady Students are of course expected
to be able to sew, we do not undertake to teach that ; but those who have some know-
ledge of dressmaking, can acquire the art of putting garments together in tailor fashion.

THE RANGE OF GARMENTS

We teach is very wide, embracing every garment worn by Ladies, now usually made by
tailors, and garments also outside this range. For instance, many of our Lady Students
this season have requested lessons in cutting bodices for evening wear ; others have
asked for the divided skirt, instructions in each case being imparted in detail. Many
of the Ladies avail themselves of the opportunity afforded them of attending the daily
lecture, delivered to our ordinary students, especially when such subjects as "Art in
relation to Tailoring," or " Ladies' Tailoring," are being dealt with, and have expressed
themselves highly pleased with the practical applications of art to the various forms
and complexions.

OUR TERMS

Are as follows : For six daily Lessons, 2 guineas. For 12 daily Lessons, 3 guineas.
For 25 daily Lessons, £5. 50 daily Lessons, .£10, or 75 daily Lessons, <£12 10s.
These Lessons need not necessarily be consecutive, though we very much prefer them
to be as continuous as possible, as the Student makes much more rapid progress when
the Lessons are continued without interruption. We shall be pleased to advise any
Lady as to the probable number of Lessons she would require to make herself proficient
in this art ; most of our Lady Students accomplish all they require in twelve Lessons.

WHAT OUR STUDENTS ACCOMPLISH.

Many of our Lady Students are now occupying the most important positions in the
various Technical Colleges throughout the country, and our Diploma is the best pass-
port to the County Council appointments, which are now becoming available for Ladies
all over the country. Others of our Students are in business for themselves, or holding
good positions in the leading houses in the various centres of fashion. We append a
few testimonials received from recent Students and which will tell their own tale :

" I am pleased to say I have benefitted from your judicious care in teaching me, and I thank you very
much for your patience. Should I have an opportunity of recommending the Tailor and Cutter Academy
I shall not fail to do so."— October 15th, 1891. B. P.

" I tender my best thanks for the very careful instruction which you have given me, and I feel that 1 have
had special attention to enable me to have completed the course in so short a time." July 28, 1891. E. S.

" On completion of my term of Tuition I tender you my best thanks for the special attention paid me,
having greatly benefitted from the instruction and Lectures under such able and patient teachers." E. 0. G.

DO WE SEND OUT TEACHERS

Is a question thac has been often asked, and to this we reply that arrangements can
be made to do this, full particulars of which we shall be pleased to forward on application.

Ill/ J5 to l||f l^ltf}! lUC oJfrw a Cou^e of ^ulUow aaa, KU

CUO cw2> ^Sd^ce of 0^3 at-^ljf l§ail0ll> ^clj^l of
fo. 93 i 94-, DRURY I2ANE, knNDflN Ma*, //f- \^2,

W «E1

X^~~>c^<i

This is a reduced copy of the engraved Diploma awarded to successful Students at our Academy.

The original measures 20 inches by 12^ ■ inches. Those who pass their examination " with

Honours " are awarded a very beautifully executed Diploma in colours.

A PROSPECTUS containing full particulars of our Terms and arrangements sent on application.

FROM SUCCESSFUL CUTTERS

WHO GRADUATED AT THE "TAILOR AND CUTTER ACADEMY.

Miss E. Z. S., writes: " Aooept thanks for Diploma, I am
very pleased with it and have greatly benefitted from the in-
structions given in your institution."

From Miss E. A. J., Brighton: "Thanks to the excellent
teaching received at your Academy, I am appointed teacher of
S6venoaks as well as at Tunbridge Wells."

Miss B. P. writes : " 1 am pleased to say that I have benefitted
from your judicious care in teaching me, and I thank you very
much for your patience, and should I have an opportunity of
recommending the Tailor and Cutter Cutting Academy I shall
not fail to do so."

Mrs. H. writes : " I have attended with great interest and
pleasure the Tailor and Cutter Classes, and consider that I have
gained very much useful information, and wish to thank you
for the particularly patient and painstaking way in which you
have explained it. I have made a garment for a child from
measurements duriDg the time I have attended the class, and
it was in every way a success."

Miss M. P. B. writes : " Having finished my present course
of tuition at your Academy, I wish, before leaving, to express
my warm thanks to you for the careful and patient way in which
I have been instructed. I consider your system a most thorough
one, and shall only be too glad to resume my lessons again in a
higher branch as soon as time and ciroumstances will permit "

Mr. A. C. G. writes : " In leaving your Academy, and taking
with me a Diploma, I beg to express my sincere thanks for the
courtesy, patience and excellence of tuition I have received from
the teachers during my term of study. Your system of cutting
gives me every satisfaction, and especially as regards cutting
for abnormalities, Ac. One of the Bpecial features of your
course of tuition are the lectures to which I attach the highest
value, because of the interesting and instructive matter they
contain, the excellent business principles they impart, and of
their high moral tone. Should an opportunity occur, I shall
not fail to recommend your Academy with every confidence as
a first-class institution for a young man to learn the Art of
Cutting."

From G. S., Cambridge : " I consider it to be a matter of duty
that I should write to let you know how I have been getting
on since I left the Academy. The systems taught are almost
perfection ; I have used them for 3 years and they fit splendid.
I can safely recommend any young man who wants to learn
cutting to go at once to the Tailor and Cutter School of Art, 93 &
94, Drury Lane, London, W.C.

Mr. G. W. W., Plymouth, writes : " Gentlemen, — I can-
not leave this Academy without expressing my hearty thanks
to the teachers for the attention and kindness that has been
shown me during my stay. Also my entire satisfaction with
the method of teaching, and the very instructive daily lectures.
Everything has been done that could perfect me in the Art of
Cutting, and it would have been my own fault if I had not got
on well."

Mr. A. P., writes : " I thank you for the Diploma which I
received quite safe ; and I wish to say that I feel quite satisfied
with the instruction I received during my six weeks stay at
your Academy."

Mr. R. K., writes : " I am almost three monthBin the situation
I now hold, and I have not had a misfit, and never more alter-
ation at a time than a button, or some trivial thing of that sort,
since the start. — Your old student.

Mr. T. W. S. writes : " My Diploma duly to hand, for which
accept my best thanks. I may also say I am finding the system
to work first-class. The first coat I cut was for a man that
could not get one to fit him about the shoulders, the one cut fits
splendid. I have cut for stooping and disproportionate too, I
find it to work first-class."

F. W. writes : "lam pleased to say we are full of orders,
and since my return home — thanks to the valuable instruction
received at the Academy — business has almost doubled."

F. E. W writes : "lam perfectly satisfied with the course
of tuition I received at the Tailor and Cutter Office, and can-
not sufficiently express my thanks for the great pains taken
with me."

I have got on well since I was under your teachers. I am
in the first situation over three years. — S. P.

W. C, Northampton, writes : " I must say the lessons I
had at youroffice have been of immense service. It has reduoed
coat cutting to a pleasure. "

Mr. J. B. writes: "To day my course of study at your
academy comes to a close, but before leaving, I desire to bear
testimony to the kindness, patience, and ability of the teachers,
and it is with a feeling of deep sincerity that I offer the teachers
my best thanks.

I desire also to say how highly I appreciate the weekly
lectures for the useful information they contain. And if I ever
meet with anyone desirous of learning the cutting I shall
certainly recommend them to the Tailor and Cutter office, 93 and
94, Drnry Lane."

R. Houghton, The Citadel, Cairo, writes : " Sir, — I expect
that your surprise will be great in hearing from me again
through the hand of a friend, but an opportunity presented
itself to me to send that friend to you as a pupil of our art, and
beiDg thoroughly satisfied after a large practice of two years
with what you taught me, I have much pleasure in recommend-
ing him to you, as a man likely to do oredit to whatever you
might teach him, feeling sure that he will be as much satisfied
with your systems and teachings as I have been myself. I
especially commend him to you as a friend of mine, and as one
in whom I take a great interest. Mr. Phillips (that is his name)
is unfortunately not a practical tailor, but your long experience
of teaching non-practical men will, I do not doubt, make as
good a cutter of him as most praotical men that I have come
across.

Mr. G. C. writes : " I connot leave without thanking you for
the manner which you have attended to me during my stay
here at th6 academy, and don't hesitate in recommending any
intending to become cutters."

J. M. writes : " Gentlemen, — As what is usually termed a
non-practical man, I am pleased to testify to the value of the
instruction imparted at the School of Cutting at the Tailor and
Cutter Office. I am in business for myself as a General Outfit-
ter, and ten years since had some small practice as a cutter, but
since that time have been in business where no bespoke work
was done, until two years ago I took a business where a fair
bespoke trade was done, and then determined to do my own
cutting and save the expense of a cutter. Three weeks only at
the Tailor and Cutter Academy was sufficient to enable me to do
this with &atisfaotion to my customers and myself. I would
also like to bear witness to the painstaking and courteous man-
ner iu which the instruction is imparted.

Mr. T. T. T. writes : " Gentlemen,— To-day my course of tuition
at your Academy comes to a close, but before leaving, I think
it my earnest desire to bear testimony to the kindness patience,
and ability of the teachers, and it is with a feeling of sincerity
that I offer my beit thanks, I desire also to say that anyone
having the ambition of learning the art of cutting I strongly re-
commend tbem to the Tailor and Cutter's offices, 93 and 94,
Drury Lane."

F. H. P., Leicestershire, writeB : " I have been here at your
Academy six weeks, and many thanks to all concerned in the
art of teaching cutting, I have feuud everything very pleasant
and nice during my stay, and referring more especially to the
lectures and debates I have heard which have been very interest-
ing and instructive. The teachers I must say are ever ready
and willing to tell and explain to the students anything they
wish to know. As I always take the Tailor and Cutter journal in
weekly and read the contents, I generally know how things are
going on, and shall now ever think of the six weeks of learning
the art of cutting, and the kind way towards me."

F. W. P. writes : " I have been four weeks a student at
the Cutting School, and I am highly pleased with the attention
paid to me ; and beg to thank th<? teachers for the instructions
which have been so satisfactory to me."

S. A. and H. S. write : " We have been at your Cutting
Academy for four weeks, and we are highly satisfied with
the attention paid to us by the teachers. We have made
excellent progress, and consider the arrangements first-class."

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

THREE MONTHS AT THE

TAILOR AND COTTER ACADEMY.

PREPARED SPECIALLY FOR INTENDING STUDENTS.

BY AN EX-STUDENT.

An ex- Student of ours began writing an article on his Course of Tuition at our
Academy. We considered it so realistic, that we induced him to proceed, and embrace
in it his whole course of tuition, which extended to 3 months. This we now publish for
the special benefit of intending Students. The following Syllabus will show its scope :

First thoughts of becoming a cutter

How he proceeded to put thought into action

Negotiates for a course of lessons at the Tailor and
Cutter Academy

First day at the Academy — the Academy and his
fellow students fully described

Social life at the Academy — a banquet and magic
lantern entertainment

Special garments for the deformed, illustrated by a
number of engraved figures and diagrams

Prize competitions — measuring, cutting and fit-
ting a cutter for one of the students— fully
described

Hints on trying on— a lecture delivered while fit-
ting on the coat, given in detail

Alterations, and how to make them — notes of

another lecture

Defects in Trousers

Cutting from block patterns — notes of Lecture,
with diagram

Block Cutting, illustrated by a number of dispro-
portionate figures including the erect, the stoop-
ing, the corpulent, the hunch back and the pro-
porti onate

Treatment of workmen — notes of lecture

Punctuality the soul of business

Students discuss trade topics

The greatest evil in the trade ; Sweating ; the best
paying branch of the trade

Diagrams, Drawing Books and Diplomas

Seeking a situation — the heckling process ; my
own experience ; conclusion

a Guide to

This treatise is got up in good style, and is printed on good paper, and being prepared specially as
Intending Students to our Academy, it is supplied at the nominal charge of

Sixpence. Post free Seven pence.

Students' Preparatory Instructor

Or the Art of Learning to Cut and Succeed in Business,

An invaluable Acquisition to all Intending Students. Containing complete directions for Self-Tuition,

By JOHN WILLIAMSON, Editor of " The Tailor and Cutter."
SYLLABUS OF CONTENTS:

Introduction.

Pbkliminabt Work.

The Abt of Using the Chalk..

Fibst Lesson : Giving instructions in

draughting. Illustrated by a diagram.

To Dbauqht by System. Illustrated by a

diagram.
Two Methods of Cutting : Breast Mea
sure and Admeasurement systems ex-
plained, and their respective merits
diucussed.

Admeasurement : Illustrated by two plates

of figures and diagram.

Systems Judged by Results.

Scientific and Mechanical Cutting

Cutting by Blocks.

Adapting Blocks to Diffebent Styles

of Gabments. illustrated.
Also to Diffebent Fobms of Men. Illu-
strated.
The Cutteb's Judgment.
The Abt of Tbying On.
The Use of Gbaduated Tapes Explained.

D1BEOT10N8 fob Self-Tuition. Giving
particulars as to the means available
and the order of procedure.
Success in Business. Some of the neces-
sary qualificaons.
Necessaby Objects of Study.

The Cutteb an Abtist.
The Need of Entebpbisb.

Energy Misdibeoted.

How Stulz made his Fobtune.

The Pbikoe and his Tailob.

Conclusion.

The Sixth Edition includes interesting and instructive Lectures, with practical Illustrations as
given before the Students at " The Tailor and Cutter " office, by eminent members of the profession

PRICE ONE SHILLING, well worth 5s. to any intending Student.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

The Tailor and Cutter Business Notices.

Autumn and Winter 1892-93.

TO OUR OLD PATRONS AND
SUBSCRIBERS.

" I have been a regular reader of the Tailor and Cutter for
Thirty years," writes one of our friends from the provinces.
This, though scarcely a literally accurate statement, seeing
that the Tailor and Cutter is only in its twenty-seventh year,
is a sample of the kind testimony we are all the time receiv-
ing, and which is constantly and continually proving that- in
finding out the wants and requirements of the trade with the
view of supplying them in the very best and most trust-
worthy manner, we are carrying on a work which is receiv-
ing on every hand the most hearty appreciation. To those
of our clients who, like the one just mentioned, are of old
standing, it will not be necessary for us to say anything
concerning those business methods which have secured their
confidence in the past. We have only to thank them for
favours already received, and to assure them that our best
endeavours will, as formerly, be continually at their disposal.

TO OUR NEW FRIENDS.

Who, in increasing numbers, are being added to our ever-
extending clientele, it may be advantageous that we should
give a few notes, outlining, as it were, the general arrange-
ments of our business, and indicating in some measure our
methods and resources. Chitfly, then, for those who have
only recently commenced doing business with us, or indeed
may be only anticipating a first order, the following par-
ticulars have been prepared, and will, we have no doubt, be
serviceable in fulfilling the object aimed at.

Perhaps the most important branch of our business is

Our Model Pattern Department.

Which has grown and developed to such a vast extent that
we have been compelled by the immense demand to keep
large stocks of these patterns even in such far-away places as
Melbourne (Australia) and Wellington (New Zealand).

It would be impossible for us, at any time to publish the
whole of our pattern testimonies — they would fill the entire
Chart in small type ; but we have made a selection from the
pile, so that the success which has invariably attended their
use in practice may be seen. As usual at the beginning
of each season, our Patterns have undergone thorough in-
spection and revision, and have been carefully adapted to
the changes in style necessitated by the requirements of chang-
ing fashion, and we think we may say, without hesitation, that
the Model Patterns we are now offering through this Chart
are, both as regards fit, comfort, and style, as perfect as Pat-
terns can possibly be.

Sending for Model Patterns

Of Coats, Vests, Ladies', Youths' and Juvenile body garments,
tho breast measure alone is all that is necessary and it will
prevent the possibility of the wrong style of garment being
sent if the figure illustrating it upon our chart be cut out and
sent with the order. Our pink chart is prepared specially, at
considerable cost, to guide our patrons in selecting the style
of Patterns they require.

For Model Patterns of Trousers, the number and the system
cut by is all that is necessary.

Sending for Special Patterns.

The full measures of the customer, so far as practicable,
must be sent, and any peculiarity of the form of customer de-
scribed. While our model patterns invariably fit fairly pro-
portionate figures, the success of our special cut patterns must
depend on correct measures, and a fairly accurate description
of the figure. Mea-ure forms, with instructions for measur-
ing, can be had at our office.

The style of garment, and specially in ladies, should be cor-
rectly sent with orders for special pattern, and, whenever
possible, a figure illustrating the style should be sent, which
can always be returned. Prices : Gents' Coats, Trousers,
Ladies' Jackets, 1/2 each ; Overgarments, 1/8 each.

Special Pattern Department.

It will, in sojie cases, save unnecessary trouble and delay if
we state that, while a model pattern is cut proportionate to a
given breast measure, a special cut pattern is cut to the
measures of the customer forwarded to us. The breast measure
is all that is necessary for a model pattern, but the full measures
of the customers are required for a special pattern. If these
are sent with some degree of accuracy, and any peculiarity in
the customer's figure correctly described, then we guarantee
to send a good fitting pattern. Further particulars in regard
to specials will be found on next page.

Hints on Ordering.

Make sure that name and full Postal address is either
printed or written distinctly on the order form.

In ordering Model Patterns the number and size should
be always quoted ; it is also advisable to state whether for
Lady or Gentleman.

In ordering Special Patterns, full measures and description
of any abnormality are imperative. Sketch or illustration
of style required should also accompany the order.

Remittances should whenever possible, be made by cheque
or postal order or note ; but where this is inconvenient,
stamps will be accepted. Coin should in no case be sent by
post unless the letter containing it is registered. Cheques,
postal notes, &c, should be made payable to the John
Williamson Company, Limited.

All communications in any way relating to the business
must be addressed to the Company and. not to individuals.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London W.C

Tailor and Cutter Business Notices, continued.

Ladies' Patterns.

The ladies trade has greatly increased the business of our
pattern department. Many who find no difficulty in cutting
for and pleasing gentlemen, lack the necessary confidence in
" tackling " a lady's garment. This is amply provided for in
the perfect fitting models supplied at the " Tailor and Cutter "
Office. These, as our illustrated chart shews, are supplied in
all the new and popular styles. Very many find these patterns
a great acquisition, and those who fini the slightest difficulty
in fitting and pleasing their lady cuntomers, should not hesi-
tate in making a trial of our ladies' models. The saving in
time, the comfort, and the profit will be found more than a
hundred fold the nominal amount charged for the patterns.

To those who wish it so.

Those of our patrons who may desire to have Model or Spe-
cial Cut Patterns forwarded in private envelopes can have them
so sent without extra charge, by stating that this is their wish
when sending the order.

Our Cutting Academy.

Some details of our Academy will be found upon other pages,
but intending students who have no knowledge of the art
should not fail to send for our " Instructor and Guide," some
particulars of which will be found on another page, or " Three
Months at the Tailor and Cutter Academy," by an Ex-Student,
details of which will be found on another page.

A considerable development has recently taken place in
connection with onr Lady Students' Department, and,
during recent months, our resources in this direction have
been severely taxed. This is, in some measure, owing to the
demand which has sprung up for Lady teachers of cutting in-
technical schools and institutions ; and, in order to meet it
efficiently, we have fitted up a special room for Lady
Students and we are now equally well equipped in this as in
our other departments.

Our Published Works.

An abridged catalogue of these will be found at the end of
this chart, and a more extended catalogue, giving more com-
plete details of each of our published works will be forwarded
on receipt of stamp for postage. These works afford oppor-
tunity for acquiring the art of cutting by self -tuition, to ,be
found m no other publishing firm, and it is only during recent
years that such works could be had at any price.

Our Large Plates of Fashion.

These by well nigh general consent, are pronounced the most
artistic and faithful representations of costume ever published.
They are our Bi-annual Plate of Gents Fashions, and our
Livery Plate, both of which are magnificent pictures. We
also supply a splendid hand-coloured Plate illustrating the
uniforms worn by the various regiments of the British Army ;
and a companion picture showing the Dress of the officers and
men of the British Navy.

N.B. The large Livery Plate, of which several editions
have be n called for, id now out of print, and, though changes
in the style of Livery garments are not frequently made, an
entirely new Plate is being prepared, which will be the finest
and most comprehensive illustiation of "Liveries up to date"
yet produced. It will be duly announced in the Tailor and
Cutter, but, as it is a work of considerable magnitude, some
little time must necessarily elapse before it is ready for
publication.

Various Appliances.

We also supply Improved Squares, Tapes, Crayons, Crayon
Holders, Scissors, Button Covering Machine, Trouser Stretch-
ers, Sleeve Boards, and similar trade appliances.

The Tailor & Gutter & other Shears.

The importance of a Cutter having shears that he can use
with ease and comfort, and that will divide a line on the
material with cleanness and certainty, induced us to give our
special attention to these, and we have them made to our own
pattern and idea. A trial, in every case, has proved that we
have been highly successful. This, to m»ny is worth knowing.

We have also made arrangements for the supply of the
New Patent Lever Shears, which are pronounced a boon to
Cutters ; and also for special makes of Shears and Taimmers,
such as Heinsch's, Seymour's, &c, full particulars of which
appear in out advertisement pages.

Our Colonial and Foreign Subscribers.

Who are now to be found in every important town in the
world will be interested to learn that by the introduction and
extension of the Parcel Post we are enabled to supply most
of the articles descrioed in this catalogue at a cost very little,
if anything, in excess of that charged to our patrons in ibis
country.

The reduction in the price charged for postage of books
now enables us to send any of our publications to any place in
the Postal Union at a uniform rate of 4d. per lb., the price
of subscription to the Tailor and Cutter and Ladies Tailor
being the same as in England, viz., 14s. and 10s. per annum,
respectively.

Patterns, Shears, Books and in fact any goods to the value
of £1 will be forwarded free on receipt of an additional shil-
ling, and for orders of larger amount it may be taken as a
sufficiently reliable rule, that except where otherwise stated
in our Foreign Tariff of Prices, the cost of postage will be
covered by the addition of one shilling in the pound. Every
precaution will be taken to ensure the delivery of all articles
ordered in good condition and in the shortest time possible.

Foreign Editions of the " Tailor & Cutter."

Specially prepared foreign editions of the above journal are
now published in

Australia.— New Zealand. — America. —Germany.—
France. — Italy.

The three last being translated into the language of the
countries named, are being received with the greatest favour,
not only in the vanous portions of the Continents where one
or other of these languages is a lingua franca, but also amongst
the numerous body of German, French, Belgian, Italian, and
other foreign tailors residing in England. Full particulars as
to agents, prices, &c, will be found on another page.

Private Charts.

Every season we have a considerable demand for Private
Charts specially prepared for Individual Firms. These are
invariably found to facilitate and extend business, showing
as they do, that spirit of enterprise which commands the con-
fidence of customers, both new and old. None are in a better
position or have larger resources, for getting up such ch-irts.
Not only are we at the fountain head of all the new and popu-
lar styles. We have also facilities for producing these which
no other firm has.

Advertising Blocks

Illustrating New and Popular Styles in Ladies', Gents' and
Juvenile Garments, being fac similes of the figures showing
our Model Patterns in the Pink Chart, can, in future, be
supplied at a price, which, considering the artistic nature of
the engravings, is almost nominal. The*e blocks will be very
serviceable for illustrated Circulars, Bill-Heads, Newspaper
Advertisements, &c. Full particulars on another page.

UNSOLICITED TESTIMONIALS.

The originals of these with Yery many others can be seen at the " Tailor and Cutter " Office.

PATTERNS.

Lounge Pattern fitted splendid. — E.L.
The last patterns sent me were splendid
fits.— J. R.

Dress Coat Pattern I had last was a
" clinker."— F. E.

All patterns I have had from you have
been perfection. — C. H.

D. B. Reefer I had from you fitted
grand. — G. H. G., Maesteg.

All patterns had from you have been
perfection. — A. S., Edinburgh.

The S. B. Coat Pattern you sent me,
May 18th, fits beautifully.— J. W.,
Rotherbam.

Last Morning Coat was an excellent
fit — your patterns are not to be beaten.
—A. F. N.

L. S. 0. writes : " Thanks for last
patterns, they are all that could be
desired."

W. J. Q. writes : "Your coat and
vest patterns of my last order were really
beautiful."

The last special pattern sent for was a
great success ; am highly pleased with it.
W. W., Towcester.

I have had a good many patterns from
you and can find nothing to beat them. —
J. G., Kempston.

The last pattern I had was a capital
fit, although customer was so dispro-
portionate.— J. R., Greenock.

I am very much pleased with the prize
pattern I had from you some little time
ago. — A. S., Abergavenny.

Coachman's frock pattern I got last
year was a very good fit ; made another
coat off it last week. — W. T.

H. S. writes : " All patterns I have
had from you fit to a nicety and have
led to many orders I should not other-
wise have had."

I got one of your models of Jady's
jacket, and it was such a splendid fit that
the lady is giving me an order for
another.— T. McE.

J. B. writes :— I got from you lately
a pattern for a ladies' jacket, and it fitted
beautifully, my customer was highly
pleased with it."

S. D. writes : " I have had patterns
from you for several years and always
found them fit and give general satisfac-
tion."

P. M. writes : " The Newmarket
Ulster I had of you gave great satisfac-
tion, the lady saying it fitted her like a
glove."

H. and G. write : <■ The S. B. Chester
Model 38 breast, and S. B. Chester
Special, 43 breast, we had from you last
month surpass all previous patterns in fit
and satisfaction to customers."

W. J. Q. writes : "It is a great pleasure
to me to be able to state that all the
patterns I have had off you have been
perfection quite, and have been the
means of the present and a couple more
orders."

I am very thankful to you for the
special patterns of Morning Coat and
Vest. They fitted splendidly without
slightest alteration ; in fact I am well
pleased with all patterns received from
time to time during last eleven years.
They have given entire satisfaction. —
J. P. (Sergt.-Master Tailor), Glasgow.

PLATES & PUBLICATIONS.

Received half-yearly Plate to-day and
like it very much. — J. J. C, Farnworth.

I like the Ladies' Tailor very much. —
H. M., Marseilles, France.

I am highly pleased with Fashion Plate.
It reflects great credit both upon artist
and di-signer, in fact I consider it one of
the best plates I have ever seen. —
T. H. S., Whampton.

I had one of your winter Fashion
Plates, and would not like to miss the
spring one. — J. T. E., Plymouth.

I have been a subscriber to the Tailor
and Cutter for the last 12 years, and
have been benefitted by its valuable hints
all along. — W. A., Alves.

I have reaped good and valuable in-
formation from your journal to which I
have been a subscriber upwards of 20
years. — C. B., Hollingworth.

Allow a 21 years subscriber to con-
gratulate you on the excellent journal
you continue to provide. — G. H. S.,
Leeds.

I have been a subscriber to your journal
from the beginning, and consider it by
far the best journal published ; in fact
both young and old may gather informa-
tion from any number they may peruse.
—J. T., Halifax.

I get great help from the Ladies'
Tailor. I have put it to the test with
the best results. — C. M., Dumbarton.

BOOKS.

I received book safely and am well
satisfied with it. — S. G. M., Birmingham.

The " Cutter's Practical Guide," part I.
is of great service to me. — H.W., Anston.

I think the Lays will be very useful
and effect a great saving in material. —
H. P., Neath.

Many thanks for part II. "Cotters'
Practical Guide " to hand this morning.
It is a capital book and cheap at the
price. — A. H. W., Brighton.

I received part two of the " Cutters'
Practical Guide," and think it splendid.
The system seems very simple but per-
fect.—M. S., Killyleagh.

I received the " Academy System for
Trousers " quite safe, and think it will
produce as good a fitting pair of trousers
as anybody need want. — T. C, Beston.

The " Cutters' Album " is one of the
most useful works I have ever seen. It
is a marvei of cheapness combined with
simplicity and economy ; built on honest
principles. It should be in the hands of
every tailor. — P. G., Gorey, co-Wexford.

" Cutters' Practical Guide," part I. is
a splendid book, and one I would not
part with for thrice the money it cost. —
J. D., Elgin.

SHEARS & MISCELLANEOUS.

I am very pleased with the gas stove
I had from you. — H. P., Meath.

Your graduated tapes are most useful.
— L. M., Ely Valley.

I consider the shears I had from you
are very good. — H. W.

I am very well pleased with the square
you sent me a fortnight ago. — J. W.

I have used your graduated tapes with
great advantage for some time.— -J. J.

Set of graduated tapes received on
Saturday please me excellently. — W. M.

I received tapes, &c, all right, and am
very much pleased with them. — J. M. S.,
Muirkirk.

Received Tailor and Cutter Square
all right to-day, and am highly pleased
with them. — J. W., Strathmigle.

The graduated square you forwarded
has given perfect satisfaction. — J.M.,
Brighton.

The small Heinisch's scissors I sent
for about a fortnight ago are a treat. —
S. B., Swaffham.

I have seen Mr. Halls' graduated tapes,
and both he and I are very well pleased
with them. — R. G., Haslingden.

I have got my square and tapes all
right, and I am highly pleased with
them. — W. H., Bonnybridge.

I am very much pleased with the
Crayon-holder. — J. A. R., Grenada.

The shears I had of you last year
have given great satisfaction. — L. W.,
Leicester.

I may Bay that I am greatly pleased
wiih the Bhears I had from you a month
ago, they are satisfactory in every way.
— M. J., Dublin.

The shears I received from you a week
ago are excellent, and give every satis-
faction ; I wish I had had them years
ago.— G. W., York.

The shears which I purchased from
you over three years ago I am pleased to
say have given me every satisfaction. —
R. B., Portsmouth.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

RELIABLE

MODEL and SPECIAL PATTERNS,

SPECIAL CUT PATTERNS.

No department of our business is more highly appre-
ciated by our patrons, than this one, in which Special
Patterns are cut for their customers. When any very
particular customer, in regard to peculiarity of style and
fashion comes along, all that is necessary to do, so as
to secure the Newest Fashion of the class of garment
he requires, is to forward the measures to The Tailor
and Cutter Office, with a description of the customer if
he shows any peculiarities of form, and a pattern exactly
as required will be returned by the next post.

The value of this department can only be known by
those who take advantage of it. Many have succeeded in
fitting most satisfactorily large and peculiar figures, who
could never do so before, and thus, personal comfort,
saving of time, and success is secured, for the very
nominal outlay — in the case of a coat — of 1/2.

LADIES' PATTERNS.

This department is specially successful in Jackets, Ulsters,
Dolmans in all styles, Habits, &c. Correct measures of
the lady are certain to secure in return a perfect fitting
Pattern.

Prices of Special Patterns.

Riding Habit, Trains, Cloaks, Cassocks, Dolmans, Ulsters,
Military Patterns, Inverness Capes, Boys' Bnits, 1/8 each. Post free.

Gentlemen's Coats, Tronsers, Breeches, Sleeve Vests, Ladies
Jackets, 1/2 each. Post free.

Vests, Leggings, Capes, 6£d. each.

Model Goat Patterns

FOR BUSINESS OR WORKING MEN.

Our ordinary Model Patterns are cnt to fit comfortably close
with a atylish appearance in wear Bat so frequently is it
stated, in communications we receive, that " my customers are
principally of the farmer or working class, with whom ease
And comfort are important considerations," that we have pre-
pared sets of COAT PATTERNS specially for this class.
They are cnt in two styles only

S.B. University, and S.B. Reefer,

In 7 sizes : 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, ana 44 b. measure and in
i,A)wn paper only. One Pattern, lOd. The Set, 4/3. Post free.

WORKING MEN'S TROUSERS.

No.
1

waist
32
34
36

seat

No.

waist
38
40
42

seat
40
42

One pattern lOd. Set of 6 for 3/9. Post free.

NEW MODEL PATTERNS OF
Riding Pantaloons and Breeches.

Riding Breeches Models.

Riding Pantaloon Models.

No. 1.— 30 waist. 34 seat. No. 1.-28 waiut. 34 seat

2.-32

„ 2,— 30

3.-33

., 3.-33

4.-35

„ 4.-35

5.-38

„ 5.-37

Each Pattern lOd. the set of 5, 3/3 ; post free.

CUTT3SKS'
Practical Guide Coat Patterns,

FOR MORNING COAT, LOUNGE, REEFER & FROCKS.

Loccge.

M'TDI-Lg OoSt.

*•
0

»?

►

0
9

5 (•

f f

•

4 *

P cr

; 0

c
c
&

0
£

" x

18 ; 314

30 i

114

154

16}

284

184

31 |

1C4

324

124

171

294

17*

173

192

33 4

334

134

1*1

39 J

104

304

»i

334

194

104

18*

20*

144

loj

18j

314

204

344

104

16*

184

204

344

184

204

114

16$

Length of Frock coats abont 3 inches longer than Morning coats.

Single Pattern, Is. ; Set of 7, 5s. ; or the complete set of 10, 7s. 6d

Post Free.

The New Set of Trouser Patterns.

By the Prize Eseayist in the late Trouser Cutting Competition.

No.
1

2
3
4
6

want ieM knee bottom lop No. ssiii (eat knee bottom itp

124
13
13f
14
15
6 15
64 16

13
14
15
16
17
18
18

144

154

16*

174

144 23
154 25
16 27

17
17

7 I64

8 174

9 I84

28 I 10 20

29 ! 11 22
31 12 23

19
20
21
22
23
24

184

194

174 32

18 32
184 3?

19 31
19 31
19 81

17 31 13 26 254 214 194 31

One pattern lOd. ; set of 4, 2/8 ; set of 8, 4/- ; the set com-
plete of 14, 6/10, post free.

Perfect Fitting Trousers,

In 6 sizes

(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)

28 waist
30 do.

32
34
36
38

do.
do.
do.
do.

34 seat

36 do.
38 do.
40 do.

37 do.
42 do.

30 leg ;

31 do.

32 do.

31 do.

33 do.

32 do.

17 knee

18 do.
18$ do.
I84 do.
17.a do.
18* do.

17 bottom.

18 do.

18 do.
18$ do.
174 do.

19 do.

These Patterns are supplied at lOd. each, or 4/- the set of 6,
post free.

LINEN SHIRTS.

Patterns of the above are supplied, cut proportionate to
the 30 to 42 breast measure. Price lOd. each, or 4/6 the set
of 7, post free.

Flannel Shirts.

Are aUo supplied, cut to the same measures, and at the same
prices.

BICYCLE SUITS.

Our Patterns of gents' Bicycling Suits — Tunic and Breeches
— are specially adapted to this fast growing depaitment of
bespoke tailoring, Tunics, set of 4, 2/6 ; Breeches, set of 4,
2/6. Single Patterns lOd. each, post free.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

New Electro Blocks for Advertising Purposes.

They will prove a great boon to every enterprising tailor. Each blook is oopper faoed We are supplying them at a very low figure,

viz. : 3/6 each ; i for 12/- ; 8 for £1.

The Tailor and Cutter Business Notices.

Summary of Articles supplied at the " Tailor and Cutter " Office, details of which will be.
found in the pages of Chart and Catalogue, which will be sent on receipt of stamp for postage.

PATTERNS— Models.

Gents' Coats
„ Trousers lOd.
„ Vests 5d

„ Ulsters, &c. 1/2

Ladies' jackets 10d
„ Overgarments 1/2
„ Habit & Train 2/6

Juvenile Dress 1/2

lOd. each, set (7), 4/3
4/3
2/3
5/3

4/3

5/3

,, (4) 7/6

3/3

PATTERNS — Special to Customers' measures

Gents' Coats, Trousers, Ladies'

Ri-

Jackets
Ladies' Overgarments
„ Foundation Skirt,

ding Train .. .. 2/-

Juvenile Suits . . ..1/8

Military patterns, Cassocks, &c. 1/8

1/2 each

1/7 „

CUTTING ACADEMY.

Terms of Tuition : 1 month . . .£5 0

2 „ .. 10 0

,, ., 3 „ .. 12 10

Send penny stamp for our " Mode of

Procedure."

SHEARS.

The Tailob and Cutteb Sheabs :

No. 1 — 124 inches
„ 2-13
„ 8-134
» 4—14
„ 5—144
„ 6-16

£1
1
1
1

1
2

Seymoub's Amebican Sheabs, with ad-
justable lever, spring and bolt.
No. 3 — Hi inches

„ 4-124
„ 5—13
„ 6-134
„ 7-14
„ 8-14*
„ 9—15

Hebald Levee Sheabs.

No. 1—12 inches ... £17 6

„ 2—13 „ ... 1 12 6

3—14 ., ... 2 4 0

„ 4—15 ';, ... 2 15 0

£1 0 0

14 0

1 12 0

1 16 0

2 0 0
2 4 0
2 8 0

TRIMMERS.

Seymoub's Tbimmebs.

Straight Handles

— 8 inches

. 5/-

9 „

. 6/-

10 „

. 8/-

»»

11 „

. 10/-

Bent Handles

-9 „

. 7/-

10 „

8/6

11 „

. 10/-

12 .,

. 11/-

Heinisoh's Make.

Straight Handles

—1—6 inch.

2/3

2—64

99 •

2/6

••

3—7

99 •

2/9

„

4—74

99 •

. 3/-

19
11

6—8

6-84

7-9

99 *
99 •

! 3f8
4/-

8—10

11 •

4/6

9—11

6/-

10—12

♦1 *

5/9

11—13

11 •

6/6

Bent Handles

1—7

11 •

2/9

2—74

3/-

3—8

8/6

4—84

99 ••

4/-

5—9

4/6

6—10

91 •

5/-

7—11

91 •"

5/9

8—12

'1 * '

6/6

9—13

10—14

7/3
8/-

Postage 3d. extra.

Button-nole Scissors, Board Scissors, ice.
of improved make at lowest trade prices.

TRODSER STRETCHER.

The simplest, cheapest, and most effec
tive Trouper stretcher yet invented
Special price to the trade 12/- per doz
Carriage forward.

STOYES.

THE NEW TAILOBS' STOVE.

The Big Ben— for 10 irons inside, and 10
to 12 outside. Width 31 in. Price 66/-.

Old Ben— Width 34 inches, of greater
capacity. Price 75/-

The Improved Atmospheric Gas Stove
—for 1 iron 9/- ; 2 irons 18/- ; 8 irons
27/- ; 4 irons 36/- ; 5 irons 45/- ; 6, 54/-.

Improved pattern Gas Stove, with sepa-
rate burner for each iron. To heat 1
iron 12/6 ; 2 irons 20/- ; 4 irons 35/- ;
6 irons 55/-.

IRONS.

BROAD FACED TAILOBS' IBONS.
No. 8— 101b, 2/10 No. 11— 16tt>, 4/-
No. 9— 131b, 8/2 No. 12— 191b, 4/9
No. 10— 141b, 3/6 No. 13— 20tb,5/-
No. 14— 221b, 6/-.

SLEEYE BOARDS.

A large assortment of these boards, the
wood oarefully selected and the boards
specially made for ourselves, are now
on view at The Tailob and Cutteb
Office. Our Sleeve Boards are supplied
in 7 different sizes as follows : — each
is 27 inches long.

No. 1 — 5 by 3 size at ends

2— 6 by 3

3— 7 by 4

8 by 5

5— 8 by 6

6— 9 by 7

Board for Trousers 10 by 8 „

3/6
3/9

4/-
4/4
4/6
4/8
5/-

CRAYONS.

We supply Tailors' Crayons of the very
best quality only. Price 2/- per box.
Free by Parcel Post 9d. extra.
Pencil Gbayons of a special make are
also supplied. Price 44d. each or 4/-
per doz. Postage forone,ld. ; doz. 3d.
CBAYON HOLDEB. — Combination Crayon
Holder and Tracing Wheel — a wonderful
economiser, by means of which the small-
est pieces of clay can be used. — Price,
highly nickle plated, 2/6 ; post free,2/8.

PUBLICATIONS.

The Tailob and Cutteb— Weekly,
Price 2d., post free 24d. ; annual sub-
scription 10/-.

The Tailob and Cutteb and Lon-
don Abt Joubnal— Monthly. Price
1/-, post free 1/2 ; annual subscription
14/.

The Ladies' Tailob— Monthly. Price
9d., post free lOd. ; annual subscription
10/-.

WORKS ON CUTTING.

Send penny stamp for our Illustrated
Catalogue.

PLATES OF FASHION.

The Tailob and Cutteb Bi-annual

Plate of London Abt Fashions,

published February and August ; 314

by 224 inches. Coloured, 6/9 post free.

Plain 68 „

The Tailob and Cutteb Plate of
Bbitish Livebies. Price, coloured,
12/3. Uncoloured 6/3.

MlLITABY AND NAVAL PLATES— Two
splendid coloured Plates are now avail-
able, representing the uniforms of the
British Army and Navy. Price 32/-
each, post free.

The above are works of art which should
appear in every Tailors' Show Boom

SQUARES.

24 by 27, nicely bevelled 4 9

27 by 18 „ 4 0

24 by 24 „ 4 0

24 by 18 „ 3 6

27 by 27 „ 6 6

Graduated Squares 7 6

Registered Curved Square 4 6

Diagram Square, 6 by 6 2 0

Registered Brass Diagram Square and

Aliquot Part Finder 3 6

Postage 3d. extra.
These Squares are all made of the finest
materials, and have been specially manu-
factured for ou/selves,

TBOUSEB Cubves.

Best quality 2 6, 3

Stbaight Edges.

| inch wide, 18 long 0 6

Post free 0 8

14 inch wide, brass ends 1 8

Post free 1 10

Flat Yabd Sticks.

14 inch wide ... 8d., Is., and 1

Postage 3d. extra, unless otherwise stated.

" ECLAIR BUTTON MAKING MACHINE.

Simpler in operation, produces more per-
fect buttons, and is cheaper, than any
Button Making Machine ever offered to
the Public. Price 21/-. Moulds from
1/- per gross.

TAPES.

GRADUATED TAPES.

These Registered Graduated Tapes are

supplied only at The Tailob and

Cutteb office. The tapes are 30 in

number. Prices :

The 1st quality, printed on one side only 7 '6

Second quality 6/-

The 1st quality, printed on both sides 3/9

Second quality 3/-

Printed on stiff paper 1/fl

Postage 3d. extra. Each set of Tapes le
accompanied by a

Treatise on Graduation,
Which includes systems for Coats, Vests
and Trousers, by Dr. Humphreys. This
Treatise is a kind of MULTUM IN PABVO,
containing as it does, much useful infor-
mation in practical cutting. It is sold se
parately at 1/-, but is given with each set
of tapes, without charge.

The old or ordinary Graduated Tapes,

Are still supplied at the Tailor and Cutter
Office. First quality 5/-. Second quality
3/6. Postage 3d. extra. These also are
accompanied by a Treatise.

Common Inch and other Tapes.

Narrow Inch, 2d.

Common Inch, 1st quality, 3d.

Common Inch, brass tips, 1st quality, 4d.

Common Inch, with looped end for trouseri

and sleeve measuring, 4d.
The Centimetre Tape, with decimal scale.

Continental stamp, 3d.
The Right-hand Tape, with figures erect,

for Cutting Board, 3d.
The Leather Tape, very excellent, 7d.
The Trouser Tape, with 2 inch brass end

to fit in fork, 4d.
The Upright Tape, with small brass thumb

piece, 3d.
The Assorted Dozen, including all tape

measures used by the trade in the Cutting

Room or in the shop, 2/-, post free 2/6.
Single tapes, postage Id. extra to above

prices; 2 forl4d.; 4 for 2d.; 1 doz. 4d. extra

ADVERTISING BLOCKS.

Illustrating New and Popular styles in
Ladies' Gents' and Juvenile Garments
from 4/6 each.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

Graduated Tapes and Squares.

Graduated Tapes.

It ia dow clearly proved that Graduated Tapes as hitherto
published, do not produce correct patterns for all sizes of
figures, as it is well known that the human form, as it increases
ia bulk does not increase in the same ratio all over the body.
The invention embodied in these tapes meets these requirements.
Neither the sizes below 36 nor the sizes larger, are in the same
proportion as the 36 breast. The 36 breast graduated to a lad
of 30 breast would be too small in the scye and shoulder ;
besides the same amount being required for the making up,
seams, buttons, &c, there is not tin same space for the gar-
ment to give, as all garments do, more or less when buttoned.
On the other hand, graduation, pure and simple, applied to the
larger figures, such as 42 and 44, produces a garment invariably
too large in the scye and shoulders and too small in the breast.
To meet this, the exact ratio of increase and decrease has been
arrived at in these tapes, after many years of high class ex-
perience of measuring thousands of customers.

These Registered Graduated Tapes are supplied only at
The "Tailor and Cutter" Office. The Tapes are
30 in number. Prioes of Tapes :

The first quality, in the ordinary painted form,
printed on one side only ... ... ...

Second quality

The first quality printed on both sides ...

Second quality

Printed on stiff paper ... ... ...

7/6

6/-
3/9

•3/-
1/6

Postage 3d. extra. Each set of Tapes is accompanied by a

Treatise on Graduation.

Which includes systems for Coats, Vests and Trousers. This
Treatise is a kind of Multtjm in Pabvo, containing as it does,
much useful information in practical cutting. It is sold sepa-
rately at 1/-, but is given with each set of tapes, without
charge.

The Old or Ordinary Graduated Tapes.

Are still supplied at The Tailor and Cutter Office. First Qua
litt 5b.— Second Quality 3s. 6d. Postage 3d. extra. Thee*
also are accompanied by a Treatise.

Measuring Tapes.

Narrow Inoh ad.

Common Inch, lHt quality .. 8d.

Common Inch, braes tips, 1st quality 4d.
Common laoh, with looped end for

trousers and sleeve measuring 4d

The Centimetre Tape, with decimal

scale, Continental stamp . . 8d

The Bight Hand Tape, with figures

erect, for Catting Board . . 3d.

The Leather Tape, very excellent 7d.

The Ttonser Tape, with 2 inoh brass

end to fit in fork
The Upright Tape, with email brass

thumb piece .. .. 8d.

CHE ASSOBTED DOZEN, including

all tape measures used bj the trade ix

the Cutting Boom or in t hi Shop. 2-

post free 2s 6d.

Tailors' Squares.

Squares.

24 by 27 nicely bevelled, 4/9

27 by 18 do. 4/-

24 by 24 do. 4/-

24 by 18 do.' 3/6

27 by 27 do. 5/6

Diagram Squares.

Brass 3/6

In Leather Case ... 4/-

Electro-Plated ... 5/-
Brass Registered Solid

Pocket Square 3/6

2/-

6 by 6, bevelled edge,

Trouser Curves.
Brass ends ... 2/6 3/6

Straight Edges.
£ inch wide, 18 long, 6d.

post free, 8d.
li inch wide brass ends, 8d
post free, lOd.

Flat Yard Sticks.
1£ inch wide, 8d., 1/-, 1/3

Postage Zd. extra unless stated otherwise.

These squares are all made of the very finest box wood, and
have been specially manufactured for ourselves.

Tailors' Crayons.

Tailors' Crayons of the very best quality only,
box. Free by Parcel Post 9d. extra.

Price 2/- per

Combination Crayon Holder & Tracing Wheel.

An adjunct to the Cutting board ranking in value
second only to the shears.

A wonderful economiser, for by its means the smallest
piece of clay can be used with the power and freedom
of a whole cake.

One piece will last three times as long as is usually
the case.

Perfectly simple in adjustment, handy in shape, and
size, and can easily be carried in the waistcoat pocket.

The points of the wheel are entirely protected when
not in use and can be brought into action by turning a
screw with the finger and thumb.

The wheel in no way interferes with its utility as a
crayon-holder.

The price does not exceed that of an ordinary tracing
wheel.

it protects the crayon from breakage. It is a safeguard against waste.

It preserves the crayon from dirt. It is a security againt annoyance.

The Combination Crayon-holder and Tracing Wheel is beautifully finished, the edges
oeing carefully bevelled and the whole highly nickel-plated. It is now being offered at the
low price of 2/6, or free by post 2/8. To prevent disappointment order without delay.
The John Williamson Company LMftfit 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

— ssm™™

Graduated and Other Squares.

The Diagram Square, Art Curve,

and Aliquot Part Finder.

We have now completed arrangements for the supply of the
above, and we feel sure it will prove of almost unlimited
service to the trade generally, and especially so to the young
and aspiring portion of it. As a

Diagram Square

It possesses all the advantages of the ordinary square, with
the addition of having one side curved in the same way as a
full size trouser stick, so that it can be used for drawing dia-
grams in precisely the same way as the trouser stick is used for
full size patterns. In addition to this it is absolutely unbreak-
able, being made from brass ; which enables it to be made much
thinner, and so be of more use in drawing the lines with greater
accuracy, whilst the additional weight of the brass prevents
the liability wood has of shifting. On one side it has the

ordinary £ scale, whilst on the other it has a one-twelfth, £,
h $• i< scales, from 12 to 24, so that the Student can draw his
diagrams to either of these scales, as he may require, and thus
do away with the necessity of having a separate square for
eaoh scale. As an

PRICES :

3/6 brass; in leather ease 4/-; electro-plated 5/-.

NEW

Make of Tailors Squares

REGISTERED No. 44.

There are in us 3 many dif - -
ferent kinds or makes of
squares ; but hitherto, none
have come up to our idea of

what a convenient make of tailors' square ought to be,
the common make is a weak jointed, one sided, clumsy
kind of a thing, often getting out of the square, and,
owing to the weight of useless timber, the joints give
' way. A few years since, we arranged a
square, and had one made for our own
private and special use. Students and others
have seen the square in use, and expressed
a desire to possess a copy of it. We had
a number made to oblige oar friends ; no soon-
er were they seen, than orders for the new
make of square came in from many quarters.
The square is fast jointed, finished alike on both
sides ; and the edges being bevelled will admit of
much greater exactness in making the different
divisions than is possible by the thick edge of the
old make of squares. The short arm is 12
inches long, and the other 21 inches ; the inner
edge being nicely curved, which is suited for
pleats, waist seam of skirts, and many parts of
a garment where the same kind of a curved
line is found. For trousers cutting, the new
make of square is speoially adapted for shaping
the seams by a clean free curve ; and in se-
curing a nice front and fork seam. We have made spe-
cial arrangements with a first-class firm of square
makers, whioh enables us to supply them at a price with
in the reach of all.

Price 4/6. Postage 3d.
The John Williamson Com-
, — ^' .-■— < pany Limited, 93 & 94 Dru-
4*U3lU4!4-l ry Lane, London, W C.

Graduated Squares.

This ingenious arrangement is intended to combine the advantages of a
set of graduated tapes in one handy instrument, and there is no doubt it
answers its purpose admirably. It is arranged so that measuring from a
given point you can find the divisions required for every breast measure,
to find all the points in every kind of garment, the only variation necessary
being that, instead of using the quantities 2^, 3, 4^, 6, 9, 12 and so on, the
cutter will have to turn to the divisions marked £, one sixth, £, £, \ or §
and then mark off opposite the numbers agreeing with the breast measure he
s cutting for. Thus practically sim- ^^^,^^ ^sss^w^ w^^wim™- »
plifying the method of graduation very || ^|1

considerably. The square is made of ^^^fc
the very best material, and every divi- |||| ~rl|l|Ll

sion marked with the greatest possi-
ble care, so that strict accuracy may |||
be fully relied on.

PRICE 7s. 6d. POST FREE

Th« John Williamson Companv Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C

Button Machine, Tailors' Stoves, k

The "Eclair"

(By Royal Letters Patent.)

Gold Medal,

Bronze Medal,

Paris Exhibition,

1889.

Button Making

MACHINE,

Gold Medal,

Bronze Medal,

Algiers Exhibition

1889.

The " Eclair '' Button Making Machine is simpler in operation, produces more perfect buttons, and is cheaper, than any Button Making
Machine ever offered to the Public.

It is of the utmost value to Tailors, Dressmakers, Outfitters, Upholsterers, dec, enabling them quickly to make buttons of any size, with any
material desired. With each machine are supplied 3 steel cutters, of different sizes, 3 guages to correspond with the cutters, cutting block
holder, and iron and wood pegs, all enclosed in a neat hardwood box, 3?HRyIO^Ej 21/—.

Extra guages and cutters for buttons up to 60 lines can be supplied at prices varying with the size required.

Button Moulds (Shanks and Cups.), Black or Bright, at from 1/- per gross.

TO BE HAD OF THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED,

93 & 91 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W. C.

The Leamington Stove.

The Atmospheric " Gas Stove.

Patent Smokeless Burners, con-
half the amount of an ordinary
Gas Stove. No smell, no smoke,
no fixing.

Price, 1 hole, 9/-; 2, 18/-;
3, 27/- J 4, 36/-.

LARGEST SIZES TO ORDER.

Specially suitable for burning Coal, Wood or Charcoal

Small size (as Drawiag) Oven 16x12x12 ... 60/-

Medium ... Oven 21x13x13 ... 90/-

Large, (as Drawing) Oven 31x13x13 ... 150/-

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

Fashion Tailors' Stove.

No fixing, burns any fuel, placed in
operation in a few minutes ; cost for
burning, lHd. per week ; will hold 10
irons.

PRICE 37/6.
Larger sizes £2 1 5s., £3 3s,, & £3 1 5s.

Black Lead Pencil Crayons.

We have made special arrangements with the manufacturer
of the finest and most durable Pencil Crayons that are made.
The lead is of the best quahty, and the finish, both of the
crayon itself and of the wood in which it is encased, is every-
thing that the most fastidious could desire.

Single Crayons 6d. ; per doz. 4/6, post free.

THE PICK OF THE SHEAR MARKET

THE

Herald Lever Shears.

The lever pulls the blade

quite half an inch back

through the cloth during

the process of cutting,

hereby combining the or-

dinary

action

of the

S h e ars

with that

of a
~*\ n i f e I

The Tailor and Cutter Shears.

The best in the market for ease and com-
fort in outting ; durability, and excel-
ence of finish. Specially manufactured
for the "Tailor and Catter" office.

H. Seymour & Co.'s Patent Shears.

Advantages of the adjustable Level Spring and
Bolt :— No more loose bolts ; easily taken apart
to clean, or sharpen ; adjustable to run tight 01
loose. Cutting power increased. Eequire sharp
ening less often. Edges kept together without
pressure on the handles

Heinisch's Shears and Trimmers.

Having made a special arrangement with Messrs.
Heinisch's English representative we are enabled to
supply these renowned American Shears and Trim-
mers at exceptionally low prices. They always
give satisfaction.

Sizes and Prices of Shears

Herald Lever
Shears.

Seymours
Shears.

Heinisch's
Shears.

Special Line.
A good useful

in. £ s. d

in. £ a. d

in. £ s. d

and cheap

12 17 6

11£ 10 0

12 0 15 0

Shear

13 1 12 6

12i 14 0

12$ 10 0

(with rest)

14 2 4 0

13 1 It 0

13 12 6

15 2 15 0

13.J 1 16 0

13| 1 12 6

12 0 12 6

14 2 0 0

13 0 18 6

14^ 2 4 0

14| 2 4 0

14 16 0

15 2 8 0

15| 2 10 0

15 1 12 6

Tailor & Cutter

Trimmers.

Button-hole

STRAIGHT.

Scissors,

12£ 14 0
13 17 6

8 .. 5 0

9 .. 6 0

9 .. 4 0
10 .. 4 6

made of the

13J 1 10 0

10 .. 8 0

12 .. 5 9

finest steel, in

14 1 12 6

11 .. 10 0

13 .. 6 6

all the most

14* 1 16 6

BENT.

useful sizes. —

15 2 0 0

9 .. 7 0
10 .. 8 6

9 .. 4 6
10 .. 5 0

See Chart for

11 .. 10 0

12 .. 6 6

prices and par-

12 .. 11 0

13 .. 7 3

ticulars.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE,

CONTAINING ABRIDGED NOTICES OF THE WORKS PUBLISHED AT THE "TAILOR

AND CUTTER" OFFICE.

Our larger Catalogue, giving details of each work, can be had from the " Tailor
and Cutter" Office on receipt of stamp for postage.

THE CUTTERS'

Practical Guide

CUTTING EVERY KIND OF GARMENT

MADE BY TAILORS.
With cop'ous hints on their production

Containing Svstems for all kinds and styles of
Juvenile, Youths, and Young Men's Garments,
Including Jackets, Coats in all their Styles.
Vests, Trousers, Breeches, Surplices, Cassocks,
and many other Special G«ments, the Syt terns
of which are equally applicable to Gent's Gar-
ments. . „-...,
Illustrated by upwards of 100 Original
Figures, expressly designed for this work, and
nearly 200 Diagrams showing the practical
application of the system. The whole form-
ing one of the most complete works on the art
of "cutting ever offered to the trade.
Handsomely bound 15/-. Post free 15/3

Part Two of above Work

EMBRACING

Body Coats of every Description,

Including Morning, Lounge, Frock and

Dress Coats. Livery, Clerical, Mili-
tary, Naval, Police and many
other Special Garments.

As most of our readers are aware, Part One
of this work has already appeared, in which
the System is adapted more particularly to
Youths' and Juvenile Garments. This Part,
as will be seen by the above title, embraces
Body Coats of every description, not only
those in ordinary wear, but all other garments
which every respectable firm is liable to be
called upon to make.

The Practical Guide System is well-known,
and needs no words of commendation from us.

The work is got up uniform with Part One.
the same clear and bold type, on a superior
ore am coloured paper,

Price 10s.

IN ONE VOLUME,
THE CUTTERS'

Practical Guide Systems.

SPECIAL NOTICE!

We are arranging to supply

The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 1,

Juvenile & Youths' Garments — Price 15/-.

The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 2,

All kinds of Body Coats.— Price 10/-,

National Prize Essay Trousers System,

Price 9/-.

Bound together in one handsome volume

(bevelled boards), price 30/-.

NEW WORK.

THE

Cutter's Practical Guide

TO THE CUTTING OF

LADIES' TAILOR-MADE GARMENTS.

Embracing all the New and Current Styles of

Ladies' Garments now being made in the best

tailoring firms.

Unlike other works on Cutting, a work on
Ladies' Garments mutt be renewed every two,
or at most, three years ; such are the material
changes which ,take place in ladies' attire. We
have so often been solicited to prepare and
publish a work on Ladies' Garments by the
" Cutters' Practical Guide Systems," that we
feel sure very many of our patrons will hail
the work now it has been completed. In the
complete form in which it is got up, it has
proved to be an undertaking of considerable
magnitude. It will be found not only the
most complete, but the most beautifully illus-
trated Work on Ladies' Garments ever pub-
lished, containing as it does many illustrative
figures, showing the new and latest styles, and
produced in the highest class of Art ; and the
systems given show bow these are produced.
Science and, Fashion are thus combined
throughout.

This Work is got up in first-class styb, the
diagrams and illustrative figures being all
beautifully engraved in the highest class of
Art, and printed on excellent quality of toned
paper, bound in cloth and gilt For such a
work, it is supplied at the lowest possible price

10/-, Post free, 10/3.

The Artof Tryiag-Onand

FITTING,

Seingaseriesor Practical Illustrations
from his own Experience.

BY " UN TAILLEUR."

IS ever before has so much light been thrown
lpon what is really and truly the practical
part of Cutting ; no Cutter of limited experi-
ence should be without this work. It is made
lp of a series of actual cases of fitting-oa in
;he Author's own practice. The reader is
iaken into the author's Cutting Room on a
large number of occasions, when garments are
being fitted on ; the defects in a great variety
it cases are pointed out, and the remedy,
illustrated by beautifully engraved diagrams,
pointed out. As the experience of every cufc-
ior has taught him — fitting on a garment is no
guarantee that it will ultimately fit. There ia
frequently more art in chalking eSeotive
iterations than in cutting the garment in the
first place. As a practical guide for all oat'
ters, this work is invaluable.

Price 7/6. post free 7/9.

OUR NEW WORK.

On Disproportion,

PART FOUR OF THE

Students' Practical Guide to Curing.

This work long asked for and promised, his
proved an undertak ng of much greater magni-
tude than we could have anticipated ; nor could
anyone not actually concerned w. its produc-
tion, estimate the amount of time, care and
attention involved — first on the put of the
author in mentally conceiving its ground-wore
and scope ; and secondly, r-n the p*rt of thk
Artistic editor in directing the aitist in the
production of such illustrations as will cor-
rectly represent not only all the ordinary, and
a goodly number of the EXTRA-ordinary
cases of Disproportion, which present them-
selves to be clothed, but many real cases of
Malformati on.

No work has ever appeared whioh has reat-
ed this subject from an artistic as well as prac-
cal point of view. The sixteen beautifully
engraved Plates which constitute the leading
feature of the work, form a Series of OBJECT
LESSONS — the illustrative Figures and the
Diagrams whicn show the necessary alterations
appearing on the same Plate ; while the whole
subject is fully discussed, both from a prac-
tical and scientific point or view in the letter-
press. A glance at the Plates will show at
once the artistic merit brought to bear on tbeir
production.

These types of Disproportion and Malfor-
mation, all illustrated upon figures, got up in
the highest class of art, will convey to our rea-
ders some idea of the magnitude of this under-
taking, each type being further illustrated by
beautifully engraved Diagrams showing the
deviation* required for each from the normal
pattern. Suuh a wcik as this is not only the
product of considerable time and labour, but
also of expense ; but as usual the work is pro-
duced at the lowest possible figure, and it ia in
anticipation of a larg« demand, that we put the

Price at 10/-, post free 10/3

Systems for Coats

VESTS, TROUSERS AND SHIRTS
IN THE FORM OF A SERIES OF LESSONS.

LESSON l.— Coat System.

LESSON 2. — Disproportion.

LESSON 3. — Overcoats.

LESSON 4. — Trousers System.

LESSON 6.— Vest System.

LESSON 6.— Shirt System.
These Lessons are each handsomely got up m a
pair of cases, beautifully ornamented in g>lt, and
■o arranged that they can be forwarded by post
to any part of the United Kingdom, post free
on receipt of

3/6 each Lesson,

NOTE.— Lessons ONE, TWO and THREE
being the Coat System complete, can be had,
together, in one pair of cases, price 8/6. The
Series of Five Lessons, containing Coat, Vest,
and Trousers System for 12/6.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE.

Art and Style The Art of Cutting by Dr. Humphreys' Works

IN CUTTING AND MAKING

FROCKS, REEFERS, LOUNGES, &c.

Being the product of many eminent

practical Cutters.

FORMING A

Highly Instructive & Valuable Treatise.

The combined wisdom of upwards of fifty
leading cutters is laid down in Essay Compe-
titions, showing their plans of meeting dispro-
portion, the methods they adopt to hide the
deformities of their customers ; how they have
rsade men with humps on their backs present-
able ; how they altered the appearance of men
with shoulders of various shapes ; and made
them all appear nearer the ideal image of man
than their own misshapen bodies indicated.

Besides, all this, style has received very able
treatment the many varieties being clearly
defined, the special features to be observed in
producing each to perfection explicitly laid
down, and many little " wrinkles " of the most
useful nature explained.

The various methods of manipulation are
fully explained, consequently making this
work a most useful and valuable addition to
our trade literature.

It also contains a number of beautifully
Engraved Diagrams, illustrating the various
features dealt with.

Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9.

Economy in Cutting,

THIRD EDITION.

At this time when competition runs so high,
and prices must be cut so fine, it has become
forcibly impressed upon us, that a work might
very advantageously be devoted to ECONOMY
IN CUTTING. We had little difficulty in
selecting an author of thorough practical ex-
perience for this work, Mr. Falconer having
devoted special attention to the matter of
Economy. Many of our readers will recollect
that when some years ago we offered a prize
for the best and most economical " lays," Mr.
Falconer carried off the First Prize. We are
satisfied no one is better qualified to reduce
the whole subject of Economy to a system
adaptable toevery garment or series of garments,
which are to be cut out of the same material,
at the same time. The completeness with
which Mr. Falconer has done his work will be
found in the fact of its containing no less than
Thiety Plates illustbating differ-
ent Lays.

Ranging from one to four garments on each

lay or illustration.

Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9.

Dr. Wampen's Systems

And Works, as adapted for
Daily Practice.

By MR. R. WILLIAMSON.

This work contains all that is of practioal
value to the Cutter in Wampen's Works.

There are comparatively very few Cutters
of the present day who know anything more of
Dr. Wampen than as a name of great repute—
a kind of Shakespeare in Cutting. As is well
known, the Doctor's works during late years
cannot be procured at any price ; and when
procured, they are few indeed who have either
the time or the patience to study them suffi
ciently so as to turn them to any practnal
account. Still, as the Docter's works contain a
mine of wealth in the way of sound basis and
principles for cutting. The difficulty in the
way of their practical application has now been
overcome.

Price 7/6. Post Free 7/9.

MODEL PATTERNS.

By Mr. Falconer
All who cut by Block or Model Patterns —
and they are now a largely increasing number
— should procure this very elaborate and
highly instructive work. The increasing num-
ber of those who use Model Patterns is doubt-
less due in a large measure to the reliability,
both in fit and style, of the patterns supplied
at the Tailor and Cutter Office ; but still these
Patterns are necessarily adapted to proportion-
ate or ordinarily well made figures, while the
Art of Cutting consists in adapting a
pattern to any customer's form of the same
breast measure. It is but a minority, we fear
of those who cut by Model Patterns that are
capable of doing so. Here, then, is a work
prepared expressly for those who cannot adapt
their Model Patterns as we have described.
Such a work, we repeat, should be in the hands
of everyone vrho uses Model Patterns.

Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9.

POLYTECHNIC

Coat System.

Embracing the experience of 35 years,
as Cutter, Teacher and Author ; includ-
ing also all ideas of practical value which have
app eared in his pre vious works, setforth in
the simplest and most practical form

The exhaustive manner in which each sub-
ject brought under notice is discussed, makes
this work more of an educator than any we
have hitherto published. It is not simply
giving so many systems or applications of sys-
tems to certain garments, but we have here
everything relating to the cutting and manipu-
lation of those garments.

Price 7/6, Post free 7/9.

POLYTECHNIC

Vest System.

With a view of giving completeness to the
Series of the Doctor's Works, a work on Vests
has also been prepared, embodying the whole
subject of Vest Cutting in all variety of styles.
An especial feature of this work is its em-
bracing a series of 8 beautifully; engraved
Plates showing all the new and fashionable
styles of Vests ; also 5 Plates of Diagrams
illustrating the System and instructions con-
tained in the work.

Price 5/-. Post free, 5/3.

Critical, Practical,
AND SYSTEMATICAL

Coat Cutting.

As most of our readers are aware, Dr. Hum-
phreys has been a diligent student of the
Art and Science of Cutting, and has studied
minutely the whole range of contemporary
literature for a period of 35 years. He has
also taken part in all the leading controversies
of that period, and has come to be regarded as
the leading authority on all matters relating to
Cutting.

Such a work as this, our readers may easily
imagine, is the result of no small amount of
study and labour. No expense has been spared,
as a glance at the Volume itself will show, in
getting up the diagrams and work generally in
excellent form. We are, however, desirous of
publishing it at a price such as to bring it with-
in the range of all classes, viz.,

Price 7/6. Post free 7/9.

In One Complete Volume.

Now that this Series of Works by the Dr.
is complete, we have prepared them together
in one substantial and very handsome volume.
This embraces the Four Works, particulars of
which peecede this notice, viz ,

The Polytechnic Coat System.
Practical, Critical and Systemati-
cal Coat Cutting.

The Academy Trouser and other

Systems.

The Polytechnic Vest System.

The value of this volume in its complete
form will be apparent to al! who can appreciate
high class Practical Teaching in the Art and
Science of Cutting.

Price 28/-, post free 28/9.

THE LADIES'

Jacket

Ulster I Costume Cutter,

BY JAS. THOMSON.

Embracing Systems and Instruc-
tions for producing all the New
and popular Styles of Ladies' Tai-
lor made Garments, including
Jackets, Ulsters, Costumes, Habits,
Trains, &c.

So frequently are very material changes
introduced into the styles of Ladies' Jackets,
Dolmans, &c, as made by tailors, that no
standard work could be published upon them
which would remain of continuous value.
Hence the demand on almost each returning
season for a revised Edition, or an entirely
new work, treating of the latest styles of these
Garments.

The Work we now announce is entirely new,
while the reputation of its Author will be
sufficient guarantee both as to its complete-
ness, its reliability and excellence. Thirty-five
Plates illustrate all the new and popular gar-
ments now being made in high-class tailoring
firms, the styles being represented by many
beautifully engraved figures.

Price 5/-. Post free, 5/3.

The School of Art

EXAMINATIONS.

BEING THE CANDIDATES' PAPERS, — QUESTIONS
AND ANSWERS, WHICH FORMED PART OF THE
EXAMINATIONS HELD AT " THE TAILOR AND
CUTTER " OFFICE RECENTLY, TO WHICH IS
ADDED A SUMMARY AND REVIEW BY THE AU-
THORS OF EACH OF THE SERIES OF QUESTIONS.

EDITED BY JOHN WILLIAMSON.

This somewhat extensive work is formed of
ihe answers of the twelve Candidates for
honours to the questions in the papers given.
To the answers of eaoh paper is added a Sum-
mary and Review of the whole, by the Author
of the paper, which in each case is highly
iutere»ting and instructive — the whole forming
such a compendium of instruction and wisdom,
as has never been published before in such a
form. The work itself considerably exceeds in
bulk what we had anticipated, but we are still
desirous of bringing it within the reach of all
our readers.

Price 4s. 6d. Post free, 4s. 9d.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE.

The Catting Room, Students' Guide e Cutting

TKOUSEBS

->X<-

ITS DUTIES AND ROUTINE,

Being 1st and 2nd Prize Essays in a recent
Competition.

It will be sufficient to state that each of
these Prize Essays form an exhaustive Treatise
on the Duties and Routine of the Cuttiny
Room. The practical importance of this sub
ject to every member of the cutting profes-
sion induced as to offer handsome prizes with
the result of producing two very excellent
Treatises.

This work enters into, and treats from a
thorough practical point of view everything
relating to cutting room routine, and every-
thing relating to the working of, and what ia
required by, first-class tailoring firms. For
young men aspiring to be Cutters, and Cutte.l
of limited experience, this book is invaluabla
as it conveys very faithfully what the dutie
ind routine of the Gutting Room are.

Price 6/-. Post free 6/3.
A NEW SYSTEM

ENTITLED

The "Certain System"

OF COAT CUTTING.

The author claims, after thirty years prac-
tice, that it is safe, sure and simple, cannot
ley.d you astray, is absolutely true. Buy it,
study it, use it.

Now Ready, Price 7/6. Post free 7/9.

The Seven Stars

COATS&TROUSERS SYSTEMS.

These comprise two distinct works, the Seven
Star Coat Systems and the Seven Star Trouser
Systems. Each work contains seven systems
in daily practice, by seven eminent Gutters,
accompanied by what each considers the secret
of success in the cutting of Coats and Trousers.
Each of these works met with a large demand
on their first appearance, and the systems and
instructions in both works have been very
highly commended.

The Seven Star Coat and Trouaer Sys-
tems, 7/6 each. Post free 7/9 each.

The two works handsomely bound in one
volume, price 15/-. Post free, 15/6.

Fourteen Patterns cut by. the Seven Systems
4/- extra.

Work on Modern Liveries

While preparing the Models for our Pla
of British Liveries, it occurred to us thfv
something more was required to enable the
members of the Tailoring profession both to
produce and understand the Liveries. This
we provide in a full and exhaustive Treatise
on the subject of MODERN British Liveries.
The wo-k is accompanied with

Nineteen Plates of Beautifully
Shaded Diagrams.

Every minute particular in regard to many
details connected with this special class of
garment is set forth in the work, thus enabling
the tailor to produce any class or style of
Livery worn at the present time. The work
forms a necessary and indispensaole companion
to our New Livery Plate.

The various details and trimmings of the
different garments are illustrated upon the
diagrams, which are drawn to a large scale.

Price, bound in Cloth, 10/-.

IN FOUR PARTS.

The practical adaptation of the System is
shown by a number of engraved and shadeo
draughts to the half-inch scale.

PART ONE shows the system worked as ••>
Breast Measure System. Price 5/-. Post
free 5/3.

PART TWO.— Admeasurement. The
System of Measuring and how to take the mea-
sures. Price 5/-. Post free 5/3.

PART THREE.— O vercoats, Reefehs
&c. Price 5/-. Post free 5/3.

PART FOUR.— Treatise on DlSPROPOB
TION Sixteen engraved Plates constitute tb
leading feature of the work, forming a Series o'
OBJECT LESSONS.

Price 10/-. Post free 10/3.
The Four Parts complete in one hand-
somely bound Volume 24/-. Post free 25/-

NATIONAL

Average Time Log,

Being the average of about 50 of the Logs of
the leading Towns and Cities of the United
Kingdom. The fullest and most comprehensive
Log ever published.

The necessity f or an Uniform Time Log has
long occupied the attention of the trade. With
the view of assisting in its introduction, we
collected all the logs it was possible to procure
throughout the United Kingdom — and suc-
ceeded in getting about fifty of those paid in
the leading cities and towns.

Price 2/6. post free 2/9.

Belfast' sCompleteWorks

IN THREE PARTS.

Coat System, 3/6. Trouser System 3/6.
Systems adapted io Ladies' Habits, Jackets
and Cloaks ; Vests, and Boy's Garments.

Complete in One Volume, price 12/6,
Post Free, 13/1.

NOW READY.

Tom Jones' Diary,

BEING A FULL AND
Practical Realistic Record of a

SUCCESSFUL TAILORING CAREER,

From a Provincial Apprentice to a

West End Cutter & Master Tailor.

By JOHN WILLIAMSON,

2 Editor of the " Tailor and Cutter."

Revised by Z. W. SHAW,

I Author of the " Jrt of Trying On."

The object in publishing this Diary is to
convey to the young and aspiring members of
our trade, a realistic sketch of the incidents in
a' Successful Cutter's Career, from his birth
and apprentice in a provincial town, to his be-
coming Chief Cutter, and ultimately Master
of a West End Tailoring Trade. The practi-
cal knowledge conveyed in regard to each suc-
cessive stage of advancement, cannot but prove
invaluable to every Student of Cutting ; while
it will be found to contain much to interest
and instruct Cutters of mature experience.

GREAT NATIONAL

Work on Tronser Cutting

THEIR DEFECTS AND CURE.

The First Prize Essay in a Compettion, for
a prize of £10, offered by the National Federa-
tion of Foremen Tailors' Societies, by " Ox-
onian." This work is thoroughly practical,
and deals with every phase of Trouser Cutting,
together with a reliable system, with its adapta-
tions to all requirements and all styles, as well
as giving the cause and cure of 47 defects in
trousers, hints on making, &c, illustrated by
70 diagrams.

From those who have put the system to the
practical test we have received a large number
of the most flattering testimonials, which gives
us every confidence in recommending it to all
who require a thoroughly reliable Trouser
System which can be readily adapted to meet
the requirements of the most fastidious, as it is
based on scientific principles, which have been
proved correct by hundreds of Cutters in daily
practice ; as an example, the Nottingham So-
ciety recently had a Competition, in which they
cut two pairs of trousers from cloth, when ''the
Prize trousers carried off the palm, and it was
agreed by general consent, that the system is
an excellent one. and deserves hish praise."

Bound in Cloth 9/-, Paper Covers, 7/6.
Post free 9/3 and 7/9.

Academy Trousers and

Other Systems.

This is the only work on Trousers Cutting
recognised by Dr. Humphreys, and is a Work
which contains the fruit of the Doctor's 35
years' experience as a Cutter, Teacher, and
Author. It is not simply a Trousers System
with Deviations and general remarks on
Trouser Cutting, but contains a variety of
systems besides the main Academy System —
many good, some indifferent, some positively
defective, and all given with a view of showing
the good and bad points in Trouser Cutting,
with the view of enabling the Cutter to accept
the good and avoid the defective points in
systems and in Trouser Cutting.

The various sections of this work are illus-
trated by 14 beautifully engraved Plates. This
is doubless the most comprehensive work on the
whole subject of Trousers Cutting yet pub-
lished ; the Doctor's many years' experience
is brought to bear upon every page, the whole
forming a practical guide for every-day use
and work.

Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9.

Utility Trouser System.

Including Breeches, Leggings, and Gaiters, con-
cluding with a Chanter of Critical Observations.

Price 10/ . Post free 10/6.

Belfast's Trousers.

This is tha first work that was published
at the Tailor and Cutter office, and has been
in demand since, and found to be a good
safe syfcteni.

Price 3/6. Post free 8/7.

System for Trousers.

Handsomely got up in a large pair of
cases, ornamented in gilt, the diagrams
being on one side ana the matter on the
other. This is found very convenient iu
draughting a good reliable system.
Price 3/6. Post free 3/7.

Price 3/6. In good binding, gilt letters 5/ .
The John Williamson Company. Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE.

The Seven Stars

TROU8ERS SYSTEMS.

The6e are Seven Trousers Systems by se-
ven eminent Cutters, containing al6o the
secret of their success.

Price 7/6, post free 7/9.

THE PRINCIPLES

Of Trouser Cutting.

As illustrated by ten essays, in a competition
for a prize of £10, together with the methods
suggested by the essayists for meeting the
peculiarities and deformities of customers, abo
the defects and remedies in trousers cutting.
This work forms the second volume of the
Great National Work on Trousers, and con-
tains the cream of experience of ten eminent
Cutters.
Price 5/- ; bound in cloth. 6/-. Postage 3d

STUDENTS'

Preparatory Instructor

and Guide.

Containing also Directions for Self-Tuition.
BY JOHN WILLIAMSON, Editor of The

Tailor and Cutter.

The necesity for such a work as the above
title indicates, has been strongly impressed
upcn us for a considerable time. So frequently
do Students arrive at our Office with little or no
knowledge whatever of the career upon which
they have resolved to enter — making the diffi-
culties that have to be overcome so much
the greater — it has many times occurred
to us to prepare a Treatise embodying a
general outline of a cutter's carrer, for the
special use of intending Students, so they
may be able to form some idea of the
career upon which they anticipate entering.
This we have now succeeded in doing.

The Treatise also contains directions whereby
the intending Student (unassisted) may under-
go a course of instruction and practice, prepa-
ratory to his placing himself in the hands of a
competent teacher, and which will greatly faci-
litate his progress and future advancement.

Directions fob Self-Tuition are also
added, whereby those who have time and op-
portunity, and possess the necessary powers of
self-application to acquire the Art of Cutting
by self-tuition, are directed to the means within
their reach whereby they may do so.

Price One Shilling, post free 1/2.

THREE MONTHS

AT THE

Tailor & Cutter Academy

Prepared specially for Intending
Students.

BY AN EX-STUDENT.

The young; man who enters a Cutting
Academy or Cutting School, to acquire the
Art of Cutting, with no previous knowledge of
a cutting career and knows nothing of the dif-
ferent steps and stages along which the Art is
acquired, is at a disadvantage compared with
him who has had opportunities previously of
making such a forecast. This want — the
means of acquiring such knowledge — is now
supplied by the Treatise we now introduce.

An ex-stud:mt of ours began writing an
article on his Course of Tuition at our Aca-
demy. We considered it so realistic, that we
induced him to proceed, and embrace in it his
whole course of tuition, which extended to

three months. This we now publish for the
special benefit of intending Students.

It is a simple ungarnished record of his
observation, experience and acquirement?,
during the course of tuition at our Academy.
Besides being an excellent forecast to any in-
tending Student — or anyone indeed who pur-
poses acquiring the Art of Cutting under any
teacher or circumstances — it contains much on
the Art of Cutting of considerable practical
value to any cutter — even to many of mature
experience.

This treatise is got up in good style, and is
printed en good paper, and being prepared
specially as a Guide to Intending Students to
our Academy, it is supplied at the nominal
charge of

6d., Post Free, 7d.

THE TAILOR AND CUTTER

Cutting Class,

Being a Series of Easy Lessons

ON THE

Elementary Principies of Cutting

These Lessons have been specially prepared
as a first step for young aspirants acquiring the
Art of Cutting. To the young and uninitiated,
works on cutting, at first sight, appear ex-
tremely vague and complex, and many young
men are doubtless prevented acquiring the
Art of Cutting from the apparent difficulties
that meet them on the threshold. Here is the
whole Art of Cutting put in the form of very
simple Lessons, in which the lad or apprentice,
totally ignorant of Cutting, begins at the A B
C of the Art, and is brought gradually on by
easy steps and stages, beginning at the very
first principles — the whole being adapted to
the capacity of any apprentice boy.

An idea of the interesting and instructive
character of these Lessons may be formed
when we state that they take the form of a
Report, relating in full detail the instructions
of the Teacher, the questions of the Students
upon obscure points, and the Teacher's replies.
In this way every possible point which is likely
to perplex the Student is fully discussed, and
made intelligible to the humblest capacity.
The lessons are based upon the principle —
which is maintained throughout — that it is not
so much the system that is used as the exereise
of sound judgment in using it.

Price 3/6. Post free, 3 7.

Strongly and Handsomely Bound in

Cloth, 5/-. Post free, 5/3.

The Cutter's Guide,

TO LADIES' GARMENTS.

A Guide to Alterations in Fitting Ladies'

Tailor-made Garments.

Tall and thin figures.

Short and stout.

Square shoulders and short necks.

Sloping shoulders and long necks.

Creases at the waist.

A fold right across front.

Creases down the front shoulder.

Prominent and flat blades.

Prominent and flat hips.

Erect figures.

Stooping figures.

Looseness on front edge.

Creases round neck.

A Plate of Diagrams also illustimes a
section of the neck, and giving explicil
details of the various collars worn or
Ladies' Garments

Such a Guide is invaluable to all ladies
cutters.

PRICE, Is. 6d.

Trimmers PracticalGuide

TO THE CUTTING BOARD.

In this Guide the Trimmers' various
duties are fully explained, and copious
hints given on the special features of very
nearly every garment a tailor is called
upon to make. So wide is the scope of
this Guide that the space at our disposal
here will not permit us to give a (detailed
Syllabus. Sections are devoted to' the fol-
lowing :

Trimming Principles,

Business Principles.

How to Measure for every kind of

garment inlcuding ladies'.

General Hints on Trying On,

The Order Book, Stock Keeping and many

other things, including a Trouser System.

After all this comes the work proper."

Lounges. Clerical Cassock.

Norfolk Jackets. Naval and Military
Dress Jackets. Garments

Footman's Pantry Ladies' Costume.

Jacket. Riding Habit & TraiD.

Patrol Jackets. Costume Skirt.

Smoking Jackets. Jackets.

Flannel Shirts. Ulsters.

Chesterfields. Dolmans.

Inverness Capes. Ladies' Breeches,
The Scarborough. Trousers, &c.

Livery Overcoats. Gent's Vests, S. B.
Police „ and D. B.

Military „ Washing Vests.

Naval „ Dress. „

Dressing Gowns. Livery ,

Morning Coat. Trousers, Fly Front.

Shooting Coat. Whole Fall.

Dress Coat. Working Men's Trou-
Footman's Coatee. sers.

Frock Coat. Gent's Breeches.

Coachman's Frock. Livery Breeches.

Groom's Frock. Dress Breeches.

Police Tunics. Cycling Breeches.

Fireman's Tunic. Knicker. Breeches.

Military Frock. Loggings.

Military Tunic. Gaiter.-..

Clerical Frock. Sp*ts.

IN STIFF COYERS, 2s. 9d.

BOUND IN CLOTH, 3s. 9d.

Cutters' Practical Guide

TO THE USE OF MODEL PATTERNS

For Disproportionate Figures.

This will be found one of the most
useful works ever published, as it illus-
trates by carefully arranged diagrams the
alteration required for almost every kind
of abnormality met with. It is a com-
panion work to the "Cutters' Album"
and " Trimmers' Practical Guide," by the
same author, giving just such information
on difficult subjects which was not treated
in either of these works. The unusual
garments are fully dealt with, and its va-
lue may be better appreciated, when we
state that it forms a complete work of
reference to all kinds of garments. Be-
sides dealing fully with all the current
fashionable styles of Gents' Garments, it
embraces Livery, Military, Naval and
Clerical Dress, Police and Firemen's
Uniforms, Trouser Variations, &c, toge
ther with a vast amount of information
ilmost incredible in such a compact little
volume.
In Stiff Cover 2/9. Bound in Cloth 3/9.

The John Williamson Company Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

ABRIDGED CATALOGUE.

The Cutters' Album

THE CUTTER'S

DEFECTS IN COATS

AND PRACTICAL

Guide to the Cutting Room, !

Contains every extraordinary gar- j
ment a cutter in ordinary practice is
likely to be called upon to cut. A dia-
gram of each of the garments is given
in complete form. Each Plate is sup-
plemented by all necessary instructions
for cutting, making and trimming each
garment, and the Album is so arranged
that the instructions face the diagrams,
as it lies before the cutter on the board.
To make the Album still more complete,
t contains

Beautifully Engraved Figures

Which illustrate the whole of the gar-
ments indicated by the Index, and
which are shown upon the 20 Plates of
Diagrams.

The Album embodies a further acqui-
sition in the form of

Diagrams of Four Lays.

Showing how several coats and com-
plete suits can be taken out of the cloth
in the most economical manner. The
Plates show altogether

72 Diagrams, and M Figures,

Illustrating the garments represented by
the diagrams.

IN STIFF PAPER COYERS, 2/9.
NEATLY BOUND IN CLOTH, 3/9.

Cyclopaedias Alterations j Coats & their Remedies

As showing the scope of this handbook, we may

say that it treats very fully and illustratively

of the alterations for the following :

HOW TO ALTER FOB

Long necks, sloping or square shoulders ;
Stooping figures. Erect figures. Small waisted
figures. Large waisted figures. Large and small
shoulders.

Prominent blades.

Coat loose at back of waist.

Looseness at back and sides of forepart.

Fold across top of back.

Creases down the front shoulder.

Tightness at top button.

Looseness round neck and at top button.

Three seamers and other coats.

Creases across top of sideseam.

Collar standing away from neck.

Tightness at lower button.

Large hips.

Prominent and flat seats.

Sleeve creasing across top of arm.

To obtain working man's or easy fitting sleeve.

Cure a hang backward sleeve.

Prevent the forearm seam coming too forward
at hand.

Vest too short in the back.

Vest kicking forward at front of waist.

Vest loose at back scye. [the lap.

Trousers — To clear away loose cloth out of

Creases at back of thighs.

Catching on the knee, and at back of seat in
getting up stairs.

LADIES GABMENTS.

To clear away creases across side.
To clear away creases across front.
To clear away creases across the sidebody.
For full breasts.
For pufied sleeve heads.
A tight-fitting lady's sleeve.
&c, Ac, &c.

Price 1/6,

Two Treatises by Mr. John E.
Leighton & Mr. C. T. Green.

Being the two First Essays in a Competition for

two prizes ojfered to the entire trade by the City

of London Master and Foremen Tailors'

Society.

The importance of such a work in connection
with practical cutting is too apparent to require
any appeal in its favour. The following index
of the subjects treated, as well as Defects in
Coats, to each of which practical remedies are
given, are all that is required to show the
practical value of this work to every cutter.

Price 7/6. Post free, 7/9.

Reliable Systems i Coats

TROUSERS AND VESTS.

" The great want in the Cutting profession
had hitherto been something simple, reliable and
practical. It was to meet this that these Re-
liable Systems were first published, and it
is the opinion of many who practice them, that
in these systems the want has been supplied —

Coat System 10/- ! Trousers System 10/-.
Yest System 6/6.

Complete Yolume, handsomely bound, 30/-
Postage 6d. extra.

Each System is bound in stiff cover and the
Complete Volume is handsomely bound in
ornamental gilt, and bevelled boards.

THE TAILOR AND CUTTER VOLUMES.

VOLUME 23.

The Toxteth Lounge.

Lounge by Dr. Wampen's Method.

Chesterfield by ditto.

Dr. Wampen on Variations.

The Angulator System.

Trouser System by C. J. W.

The Polytechnic Pants.

Three Systems by the late George Smith.

Systems for Ladies' Garments, Kiding

Habit Train, Bodices, Combination

Garments, &c.
West End Notes.
Technical Education.

&c, &c, &c.

Price, 12s. 6d., post free.

VOLUME 24.

The Angulator System.

Breeches System, by C. J. W.

French, English, and American Trouser

Systems.
Hunting Breeches.

Knickerbocker Breeches and Leggings.
A Lady's Frock Coat.
Edward Minister's System for Habits.

Naval Uniforms.

Tne Cutters' Practical Guide, eight

articles.
A visit to the Kill Cupboard.
Technical Education.

&c, &c, &c.

Price 12s. 6d., post free.

VOLUME 25.

The Deltoid System.

The Cutters' Pactical Guide, nine
articles.

Systems by Teal Fly.

Mr. Madeson's Sleeve System.

Practical Trouser Cutting.

Dress Vests up to Date.

Ladies' Systems — Cycling Blouse, Foun-
dation Skirt, &c.

Technical Education and Trade Reform.

The Amalgamation of Master Tailors.

Notable Men of our Trade.

The American Delegate in England.
&c , &c, &c.

VOLUME 26.

C. P. G. System, Livery Overcoat System
„ „ D. B. Reefer.

„ ,, Clerical Frock.

,, „ Clerical Dress.

Cycling Jacket, Lounge.
„ Norfolk.

Mr. Hopkins' Coat System.
System for Working Men's Trousers.
Big Men's Trousers.
Cycling Breeches.
„ Knickers.
Hearn's System for Breeches and Panta-
loons.
Horseshoe Folds — Their Cause and

Remedy.
Working Men's Bell-bottom Trousers.
Selections from Old Authors — Thos. Davy
„ ,, Thos. Oliver.

„ ,, David Williams.

,, „ J. Porter

Cricketing Shirt.
West End Movement.
West End Log.

&c, &c, &c.

Price 12s. 6d., post free.
A LIMITED NUMBER ONLY CAN

Price 12s. 6d., post free.
SUPPLIED.

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The John Williamson Company, Limited, 93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C.

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3 1962 00072 1377

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